20 Most Recent 1997 Chrysler Concorde - Page 8 Questions & Answers

throttle position sensor voltage high. shouldnt be very expensive or hard to replace

mos common window to fail is driver one for bein automatic may the motor be weak ? possible!but more often is window regulator that o bad this aply to all of the door only way to check is by removing door panel.however is hard to find window regulators with out the motor moss autoparts stores sell them complete

check for radiator problem first .Take it to a radiator shop and have it pressure tested this is vary likely your problem A lot of times radiators on will be leaking and its such a fine mist that you can't see it and there is no peddle it just coats things and blows away as you are driveing . If its made of plastic and aluminum check it .It could slove all of your problems and your engine.

try replacing battery in the remote start key ring

Maybe a short to the TPS or something shorting it out. There's also the IAC that really controls the idle but usually it will cause the RPM's to go up and down a little erratic if bad. The MAF sensor can cause major problems as well but since you already swapped the TPS and it helped and then stopped I would focus on that sensor and especially it's wiring to and from the ECM. Be careful with the sensor signal wire to the ECM can blow it if more than 5v passes or spikes.

remove the axle stub retaining nut, disconnect the lower ball joint, disconnect the tie rod end, pull the spindle out and away from the axle stub tapping on the end of the stub if necessary with a hammer (just be careful) to pull the bearing hub loose from the axle stub. after separating the outside slide under vehicle (make sure the car is on jack stands and the rear wheels are blocked from rolling and very secure before crawling under any vehicle) look at where the inside axle stub goes into the transmission. you'll need a good sized pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. work the pry bar in between the inside axle stub and a good thick part of the transmission and pry the axle away from the trans., there is a snap ring on the inside axle stub that internally retains the axle you have to pry hard enough to compress the snap ring into the axle groove which will release the axle for removal. it's not a bad idea to replace the axle seal in the transmission while you're there but if it's not leaking and you don't damage it in the removal of the axle it's not necessary. measure and compare the new axle to the old one, it may have some differences in the shaft like missing vibration dampeners but if it's the same length and both axle stubs match the old ones in size and number of teeth you should be good. when you install the new axle line it up by hand and slide it in as far as possible manually then tap it in with a wooden or rubber mallet. if you don't have a mallet use a scrap of wood to protect the new axle stub threads and tap it in with a hammer. after you feel the snap ring collapse and the axle slide in tap on it gently to make sure it's fully seated then grab the inner axle stub and tug on it to insure the snap ring is in place. then reassemble in reverse order of removal making sure all nuts and bolts are tightened properly and all retainers are in place. good luck

well Janet, the tie rods are what attaches the steering to the wheel assembly, so if the wheel is turned, then yes the tie rod ends are supposed to move up and down a little to compensate for the stress of the wheel moving. if they where installed correctly then the componets should not touch nor become close to each other. tpyically these componets only have one installation procedure, and it is hardly likly to install them wrong, unless the installer forgets to put the washers and rubber in the right order. and it is possible that on some vehicles the left and right tie rod ends are installed opposite of each other and this will cause them to contact other parts, and this is bad. it will bent the tie rods and offset the steering. I have been a heavy line mechanic for the past 20 yrs as well and it sounds like the technition at the alignment shop just dident want to mess with your car. in the center there is a connection point that has two bolts and a flat metal plate to attach the inner tie rods to the rack n pinion, and no these should not move any direction except a rotation, meaning circular, not up and down or left and right. and alot of the time I get this car in my shop is when its just plain worn out and they move around verry sloppy, or someome has not tightened them up enough, because they are a pain to get to. hope this helps.

Your problem is definitely a failed headlight switch - replacing it instructions:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528006adb5

but www.autozone.com will want your to register (free) to access their car repair database.
I dont work for autozone, but giving a URL into their database id easier than trying to retype.

maybe wiper delay or intermitte box

1) buy a rebuilt starter and take it and your car to a muffler shop, not a chain store either. ask them if you sit around long enough until a break in there scheduled work, will they change your starter for 40 bucks.

2) get a repair manual for about 10 bucks on ebay. get a good floor jack and stands. get a dry warm place to work. get some tools and lighting. get a rebuilt starter. follow the instructions in the manual for swapping the starter.

once you have done it the second way you will always do it the first way.

more than likly its a sensor going out go to local parts store thay will scan it for free to see what the coded it tht will answer your question good luck

ok if the others work then it is not a fuse or relay. A comon problem with them is the window track guides wear out and the window will jump track or just stick. You will have to take the door panel off to see this. If the window is in the track but leaning then it is the guides you can buy them at auto zone and are not bad to change once you have the door apart.

A auto piant store can get the code for you, plan on painting the complete car because its not going to match.

theres only a couple of things it can be, is the heater core good? there is air in the system and needs to be bled, or you have a blowed head gasket.

turn the steering wheel to the left. Look behind the drivers front tire. In between the sub-frame and the uni-body right behind the alternator or power steering pump. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If you are having problems starting the vehicle and you are 100% positive it is the starter then it will have to be replaced.Once upon a time you could actually take one apart and fix it but those days are long gone.If you want to try it yourself its not that hard if you're handy .If not take it in and have it done.I hope this has helped ,if not I will attempt to answer any follow up questions you might have.Good luck

Sounds like the seal around the fuel pump assembly is bad.

Try moving the steering wheel left and right as you turn the key - sometimes the steering lock will stick if there is pressure from the wheel. If this doesn't do it, try spraying or pouring some dry graphite into the lock cylinder ( the hole for the key) slide the key in and out of the lock quickly a few times to spread the graphite, then move the steering wheel left and right as you turn the key.
Hope this does it for you!