why do you have ? on facts? odd that.
my guess replaced ECT ! not ?
my guess, doing so , now engine is full of air, and not fails.
as all do.
front RAD cooling FANS, right? (not heater blower )
it don't work like you think, ? huh?
what does" not in Rad
"mean? with ? marks?
means you trust the silly side tank and not look in rad? fail you will.
when doing cooling service, learn read a book first.
read how to fill and burp your engine, Just like feeding a baby it is.
is engine overheating?
did it , has it, or ? , what started this saga, tell a full story?
and WIN !
Facts: on this system.
the fans are controlled by the computer brain, under a complex set rules now. it's not some mindless switch like days of old.
ill now answer for USA 03, how ours work,
ours has one fan., (not fans)
ours has a 3 speed fan (at rad back side.)
and has rules to run all 3 speeds, via 3 relays
the PCM/ECU decides this, based on if A/C is on or off.
and a complex set of rules (uses the ECT for this magic)
Fact 2: ECT will not work with air pockets !!!!
The PCM even turns on and turn off are not same temp!!!
1: Rad must be filled of AF/ 50% antifreeze cold, to the top neck of RAD filler.
2: rad and engine burped of all air pockets, ask it's same on all cars.
3: the ECT must work, right, if air pockets there, it CANT work.
4: park car, idle until the minimum engine time is reached parked.
about 180F, but all cars overheat if parked, idling and fan stays dead.
fan is off , and at some point, the fan goes to low speed.
this varies by engine option, but is around 225F. (stage1)
THE FSM covers these checks, and rules, and temps. for all 3 stages of fan speed.
scan the pcm yet>?
got P0128 DTC
? or others, for temperatures wrong,
not scanning is a big mistake on all modern cars.
yes, rad must be full parked cold, yes, yes, yes...
side expansion tanks do fail. for many reasons. ask.
a 2.0L engine. only, here. 7.4quarts cooling cap.
here is ours. usa fan. a 4 wire fan it is....
the ecu controls it using SOFTWARE, (firm-ware in truth)
do not drive car until all air is burped out of engine and rad.
in fact run it idling to hot. 180f. ( too hot to touch long)
, kill engine with key.
let cool, to luke warm, or cold.
check rad level. (sure its low)
top it off, cap it,
repeat 3 times, before driving or if it holds levels.