Check the connectors to your fuel injectors, remove each one and replug them in,often they get gunk in there and it causes this. Also remove the fuse for the injectors in the PDC (under hood) and blow it out and clean the fuse contacts if the fuse is good, then re-seat it fully. This often takes care of this problem.
unlock the drivers door with the key this should shut it off if not you can disconect the possitive cable turn the ket to the on poss and reconect the cable this will work to
your rear wiper motor might be faulty,in the front i would check your fluid level-if it is full and you hear the pump running-check your washer lines to see if they are pinched-usually around where the hood closes
you can't
why not watch the youtube of a guy doing just that
watch that first.
then ask.
what and amazing question , never ever seen it in 10 years.
google it or read the book
I have all 5 books, there are not that many
bought at Barnes and Noble, so can you
or google ,ever do that, in plain english a question
1st hit.
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/transmission/autorebuild.html
You have a Power or Ground Problem somewhere! Power/Ground not getting connection to the Battery or the Ground isn't getting connection to the body/frame!
Hey John how's it going ? First you need to see if there is battery voltage on the dark green an orange wire at the coil ! Do you have a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? You can buy one for $10.00 ! Or you could use a test light ! If you have no battery + voltage more then likely you have a bad ASD relay ! Now on the other side of thing's if there is battery voltage you need to see if the PCM is turning it off an on ! This is a white wire at the coil , a test light would work best here . Hook up the clip end to battery positive an the point end hold on the white wire connector end an have someone crank over the engine , the test light should flicker . This indicates the PCM is controlling the coil on an off ! Now if there is no control , more then likely you have a bad crankshaft position sensor ! No Spark Testing control testing
The rattle is likely a loose shield or a bad catalytic converter. As for the loud banging, Have you checked the front U-joints behind the brake rotors. As for the Reverse noise? Auto or stick shift?
The fuel pump only turns on for 2sec when key is turned on for a fuel pump prime. The fuel pump will turn back on during engine cranking. The most likely cause of stalling on this particular vehicle is a weak/bad crank sensor.
This one is tricky. Any check engine lights. Could be O2 sensor. How are your vacuum lines this could be a leak issue from a worn hose. Possibly your ignition coil. Could be getting weak. I need more information
sways at what speeds.?
with side winds or not.?
loaded car or unload, trailer?
sway as in body tilt , left to right.
or diving?
answer like a pilot.?
roll , pitch , yaw..?
bouncing?
are wheel bearing tight.?
are tie rods? tight.
ball joints tight, there are tests for each,
shock good (dampeners)
get a suspension shop check it for near nuttn? do so. saves time and money and safety issues.
they will find it fast, (tell em' diagnosis only")
in the gas tank
but there is not such a part on a 95
why not say where you saw this.?
1: on my car (show a photo) please.
2: on the dash. cluster.?
3: on my scan tool.?
4: heard in on grape vine (net rumors endless)?
on newer cars some have this in the tank.
The computer is very easy to replace. Its located on the passenger side of the fire wall. I believe 4 screws hold it on. Unplug the connectors, remove the screws and thats it. Most junkyards will have your part for around 80 bucks. Hope this helps
