20 Most Recent 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Questions & Answers

1996 Jeep Cherokee Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram

Check the battery, it sounds like it's flat. Try charging the battery to see if it recovers, but if the battery is about 3 years old or more it is likely to have failed and replacement is the only viable solution.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR IS AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE FUEL PUMP MODULE CANT BE REPLACED SEPARATELY.

You meant the fuel pressure regulator? It is located on the fuel rail and has vacuum attached to it. This is not the problem with your car tho. Check the ignition module, and the ignition coil.

Sounds to me like you have bad universal joint bearings in a CV joint.

Hello and welcome to FixYa . Locate the dial that controls the brightness of the dashboardlights. If the control is not immediately evident. Make sure the brightness control is turned on. If it is and the lights aren't working, the problem may be a bad fuse. Check the fuse that controls the dashboard lights Replace the fuse if necessary. If just one part of the instrument panel is not lighting up, then you have either a burned-out bulb or a wiring problem.

Passenger side kick panel fuse breakdown for a 1996 jeep Cherokee Country

01 - 25A Rear Wiper/Washer
02 - 15A Radio, Cigar Lighter
03 - Empty
04 - 15A Passing Light
05 - 30A Blower Motor
06 - 30A (Circuit Breaker) Power Windows
07 - 02A ABS
08 - 20A Turn Signal Flasher
09 - 10A Radio/Clock Memory, Courtesy Lights, Glove Box, Cargo, Dome Lights, Telltales
10 - Empty
11 - 25A Headlamp Delay Module, Horn
12 - Empty
13 - 20A Power Door Locks
14 - Empty
15 - 15A Instrument Panel Lamps, Clock/Radio and Memory, Headlamp Switch, Parking Lamps
16 - 30A (Circuit Breaker) Power Seats, Trailer Tow
17 - 7.5A Instrument Cluster Gauges, Headlamp Delay Module, Chime Module, Overhead Console
18 - 25A Rear Defrost
19 - 05A Instrument Panel Lamps, Radio Illumination
20 - 5.5A (Circuit Breaker) Windshield Wipers and Washers

This should get you going. And you can always Ask Me.

You might check your fuel filter and hoses..could also might need carberator adjustment?

Hi,

Lets start with technical bulletin how to determine whether fuel pressure regulator is at fault or not :-

FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST - ALL ENGINES WITH PRESSURE TEST PORT

Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Capacity Test, Fuel Pressure Leak Down Test and Fuel Pump Amperage Test found elsewhere in this group.

Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1 - 2 seconds) rise to specification.

All fuel systems are equipped with a fuel tank module mounted, combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled by engine vacuum.

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. BEFORE DISCONNECTING FUEL LINE AT FUEL RAIL, THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE.

1. Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0 - 414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail
2. Start and warm engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi) at idle.
3. If engine runs, but pressure is below 44.2 psi, check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not kinked, but specifications for either the Fuel Pump Capacity, Fuel Pump Amperage or Fuel Pressure Leak Down Tests were not met, replace fuel pump module assembly.
4. If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. .
5. Install protective cap to fuel rail test port.

Now,

The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump, it is in the fuel tank.

On this vehicle the regulator is part of the pump and not serviceable separately so if the regulator is bad the whole pump assembly will need to be replaced.

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

the actuator is pooched and needs a new one...quite common

Hi.

Check the hood ajar safety switch that is located under the hood at one side, near the front. The switch can be tested using a VOM set on impedance to check if it does close and open. The switch can also be tested jumping and opening its contacts.

Start opening the hood and locating the switch. See the diagram below:



Regards.

Ginko

If it has no bleed screw then you need to loosen the flange nut(that holds the pipe to the slave cylinder). Pump the pedal a couple times then hold it down. Loosen the nut till the fluid comes out. Fasten again. Pump and hold. Loosen etc.

I would check your spark plug ignition coil, and relay. If you open your hood youll be able to trace ur plug wires to the coil and relay. If the wires, or coils are bad, then you wont be able to get a spark, simply because spark timing is off. That also happened with my 96

id assume your talking about the overhead mini display, if that is the case it is a fuse in the lower right hand floor board of your passenger floor board. Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a fuse that went out so it couldn't send power up to the display.

So you could have bad wiring, or fuel injectors. If your engine fires up it's getting fuel, but you could have bad sensors, or your wiring to your pcm, and fuel controls could be bad.

I had this problem, and it turned out to be a bad alternator and idler pulley.

I would start with replacing the airfilter(if dirty) and fuel filter.especially the the fuel they clog up and give you sufficient pressure but no flow

Could be as simple as an open fuse

Have a smoke test done to check for any evap air leaks.

Sounds as though you do have a very low ohm reading. With the pos and neg wires connected to the battery, are you blowing fuses or just discharging th battery? A way to isolate shorts that drain the battery is to pull the fuses and see which circuit eliminates the low ohm reading. This is assuming that the ignition key is in the off position. An example would be any light that would operate with the key off. Like the trunk, hood, glove compartment, cig lighter, ECT. Pulling fuses is the only way to isolate.
Light bulbs have very low resistance but are controlled by a switch and should remain off unless called go to be turned off. Good luck with your troubleshooting.