20 Most Recent 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a problem with the idle air control on the back of the throttle body next to the throttle position sensor. Sometimes they can be cleaned out by removing and using carb cleaner...if you do this don't loose the o ring and do not turn the valve spindle. Do clean the passageways going to the valve in the tb.

bad speed sensor or bad cruise control relay... or if you have an electronic throttle position sensor I would look into that also. Good luck.

loose or faulty wire

if its a 4.0L....is the same...

Remove the distributor cao and replace the ignition module. Follow the wires coming from the outside to the inside of the distributor, this is the piece you need to replace.

Sounds like a fuel filter blockage

If I'm not mistaken this vehicle is equipped with a downshift cable. Make sure it is properly connected and is free of interference. Should be connected at the carburetor near the accelerator cable. Make sure it is actuated when the accelerator is pressed. You may also want to make sure if you have a vacuum line running to the tail end of the transmission that it is free of water from your steam cleaning.

You could be low an R134a coolant, compressor might not be working or the pressure sensor might not be working. First thing you need to do is check the compressor look at the front of it and see if the center is spinning when you turn on the air, it should spin when the air is on or the defroster is on, if it is not spinning the R134a may be low or the pressure sensor could be bad. If it is spinning it may just be low on R134a but not low enough for the sensor to shut off the pump.Ok here is how to check if the compressor is (not spinning) Follow the aluminum lines off the AC compressor under the hood until you find the pressure sensor it will have a plug with two wires coming off of it, unplug it and get a 2 or three inch piece of wire like speaker wire or something that has a bunch of small wires in it and not a big solid single wire, strip both ends of the wire and insert them into the plug holes of the switch plug this should engage the compressor if not the compressor may be bad if so let the compressor run for a little while if the ac gets cold the pressure sensor is bad if not it the system is low on R134a which you can get from Wal-mart and do your self. If it does work with the wire and you determine that it is just the sensor you can run it with the wire in it but if the system ever gets low on R134a the pump will not shut off and it can burn out the pump so it is not recommended although i've been running mine like that for about a year now. Please post any further Questions.
Eric

Without being able to do any testing, I can tell you that the two primary causes of that problem are either a bad fuel pump or failing crank sensor (also sometimes cam sensor). You mentioned a sensor but not which one. When it stalls, turn the key on and listen at the tank to hear the pump.(best if someone else listens, as it shuts off when operating pressure is attained) If you cannot hear it likely it's binding when it gets hot. Another cruder method is to bang on the center of the tank and then see if it starts.

does it have auto dim mirror?

Is it #20 on the fuse box diagram in the manual? If it is it's the big sliver one at the bottom labeled 4.8amps 12volts. My wipers went out, I replaced that one and that fixed it. I'm talkn' bout the fuse box on the driver side next to your foot. If it's not it then good luck!

Basically -- no

What you may be able to do by switching
drive train components, won't be cost effective

You are using it as 2wd

Hi, "Won't start" is pretty vague. It could be hundreds of posibilities. Dead battery, Low battery, bad ground wire to engine, bad power wire to starter, bad power wire to battery, bad connection at battery post or terminals, blown fuse, bad key switch, bad starter, bad fuel pump, bad injectors, out of gas, neutral safety switch, seized engine, broken connecting rod, no compression, no spark, bad oil pressure switch, broken timing chain, plugged fuel filter, bad starter solenoid, broken rotor, cracked distributor cap, Anti-theft device, water in/on engine, vacuum leak, bad ignition coil, blown computer, faulty cam or crank sensor ...

When you turn the key to START it what happens?
1) Nothing happens? (dead battery?, loose battery cables, or it's not in "park" all the way.)
2) You hear a "click", but nothing else? (loose battery cables, bad starter, bad starter solenoid, or broken engine)
3) You hear the starter turning, but the engine doesn't turn? (low battery voltage, bad starter or bad ring gear on flywheel/flex plate)
4) The starter turns the engine, but the engine won't start up? (out of gas, bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, broken timing belt, no spark)
5) The engine turns over, but very slowly. (weak battery, worn starter, out of engine oil)
6) the engine turns, but there's an awful banging noise? (something is broken inside the engine)


Use this guide to troubleshoot and fix the car.....

Could be a defective cap or rotor. Worst it might be a bent shaft.

At one time your vehicle had a remote starter. What you are looking at is the receiver. Mine had the same thing there and since the remote had been lost long before I bought it, I removed the board with the black "gumdrop" and added an additional cabin light in it's place. (with it's own wiring)

check the ignition coil, crank position sensor, and any wiring. that check engine light should be glowing though when it misses...