20 Most Recent 1987 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 Questions & Answers

chiltons book has some of that info, next choice would be finding one similiar and take some pictures and dealer has them ask for photo copies

banjo tight 1/8 deflection with 5-10 lbs of pressure

I would take it out to the highway and give it a good run...it probably needs some high speed to clean it out.

are you getting these starter at autozone ?

shack

Open the air filter and while the jeep is running place ur hand on the throttle very carefully, then in the other hand spray in STP CARB CLEANER. one spray then throttle up the carb so the engine keeps running.

Spray Again the carb and pull the throttle to high and back down after each spray.

4 times is enough.

Try putting the car in neutral first. Try going in reverse while shifting out of 4wd.

check air flue meter may be sticking put matchstick in the hose to let more air in if this works change air flue meter

drain the tank replace with new fuel as fuel can breakdown

when you take alternator out of play. the vehicle runs. i would be replacing the alt. these units are complex containing modules, regulators that can give you erratic problems, but i think u answered your own question alternator


hope2help shack

ps. good mechanic wont leave you stranded

Ok...if i have this right, you have a cable driven speedometer with a gizmo connected in between which you bypassed with one continuous cable. and the speedometer still does not work? If so, find another working unit and replace it. If you find a unit with a reading close to what yours reads, that's fine. keep the reciept for the unit and just make a note on what actual miles were at the change. A dealer would need to be more precise but its over 20 years old! no one is going to care waht the miles are and it's more important to know hwo fast you are going!!!

I have the Haynes repair manual 1987-2003 Jeep Wrangler with all of the schematics. Which wiring scematics do you need and maybe I can scan/email the pages, if this legal? Or can maybe answer questions you may have, keeping in mind I am NOT a mechanic but I can read plans/schematics

This is not a complex system. If air is entering, check the line for any sign of fluid seepage. If intact and fittings are tight, you either have a bad master or slave cylinder. The internal piston in either can be allowing seepage which you should be able to see, or are internally bypassing.

Not knowing your exact problem I can try to answer from what I know. If it is 5 on the floor , it could be the cotter pin on your shifter broke and this makes the shifter shift freely and not really engaging the gears. You can take the shifter boot off and inspect it. If the pin is broke you can easily lift up the shifter but do not do this unless you have a visual on the area. At all times you want to know where everything is located before it is torn apart. Take pictures if you do the work yourself cause half the times it takes a couple of trips the auto store to get the right parts. Hope it helps,again I don't know what the exact symptoms are.

If fuel is leaking from throttle spring, it may be coming either from the end of the throttle plate shaft or an external leak running down to the spring. The spring is external and even if you removed it entirely there would be no leak fro the spring itself. The throttle plate shaft leak would not be the problem but rather the result of a problem.
Did you buy carb(s) new , used or remanufactured? Or are you rebuilding them yourself? The only thing other than an external leak that could cause this is that the float level is set too high causing spill-over and flooding, or needle & seat being obstructed and not being able to close fully. Other than the leak how does it run??

Pull the starter out and check to see if there are any teeth missing on the flywheel. It's next to impossible that you bought six starters all with bad solenoids. (How long between each one?)
Also check that the crankshaft does not have really excessive end play. Although the thrust bearing on the crank would have to be incredibly bad, and likely would be causing other problems as well, it is a possibility. Any grinding noises when starting?

Drive may have been engaged when engine running, like as in accidentally forgetting it was already running, or drive was sticky & stayed engaged after start up. If this is first time it's happened, I wouldn't panic, but observe flywheel/ring gear teeth when you change starter. Check for good alignment when installing new one, just to be sure. Any odd noises from starter prior to this happening?

The headlight switch is a common problem for these vehicles. It needs to be replaced. Also swap out the plug and wire from # 1, to # 2. If this clears up the # 2 issue, then you know the problem is w/ the wire/plug. If that doesn't help, the only other place it could be is in the cap.

check the synchroize in the trans sounds like you have a bad one