1992 Izusu Trooper 3.2l all relays click but starter does not
The symptoms you describe suggest a problem which is generic, or universal, with all battery/electrical systems.
NO clicks would suggest that no power, or electricity, was "getting through to the solenoid, BUT the clicks confirm that the circuit is complete [or "closed"]. This is a good sign!
Any time any relay "clicks," indicates that there is NOT ENOUGH "power"[Amps] "getting to" the relay. A relay requires a certain amount of power [Amps] in order for it's coil to pull the armature to the "closed" position [against the pull of a strong retracting spring].
Generally this low power condition is a result of a "low" [discharged] battry, However, in this case, your question suggests the installation of a "new" battery [and I'm assuming it was fully charged] which further suggests there was adequate power available.
The next question you may ask is what could cause this, when the battery obviously has enough power available?
The answer is "RESISTANCE" somewhere in the circuit between the "hot" battery and the solenoid coil ground.
There can be many causes for this, and I will discuss only a couple, as examples which are representative of all those possible causes.
1] The most common cause of high resistance in electrical circuits, is CORROSION at some connection. The most well known example [example only, not applicable in your problem] of this is the corrosion build up between the battery terminals and the battery cable connector terminals.
The same condition can and does occur in any type of electrical connection, and at any connection point from one end to the other of any circuit.
The circuit which allows you to control [operate] the solenoid begins at the battery, goes to a fuse somewhere, through the "starter" terminal on the ignition switch, to the solenoid, and then to ground [back to the battery].
Corrosion build up in any connection anywhere in a circuit can act like a water faucet turned to almost closed, restricting the flow of water to only a trickle. A high resistance connection in an electrical circuit can cause a similar reduction of current [Amps] allowed to flow through that circuit.
2] Another possibility of resistance to current flow in an electrical circuit is the reduction of the size of the wire. This can occur when the wire conductor is partially "cut through."
An example of this problem is a wire conductor, made up of 10 small wires, which is capable of carrying a certain amount of current. If 5, or half, of those strands are cut through, then that conductor can only carry half of the current the total wire could. If 9 of the wires are severed, then the wire can only carry 10% of what the whole wire could carry. AND IF that single strand is cut halfway through, the only 5% of the original current can get through!
I suggest that you check all electrical connections, connectors, wire and wiring harnesses between the battery and the mounting point between the solenoid and the metal it is mounted/bolted to.
You will be looking for loose connections, evidence of corrosion, or damaged or partially severed wires. During this process, I also suggest "breaking" [disconnecting] all connections in the circuit, and while open, clean them well, including the use of a fine guage wire brush.
Make sure all connections are "squeaky" clean, like new, and you will probably cure your problem. Any severed conductors will require PROPER splicing.
I hope this adequately explains this issue, and allows you to correct your problem.
