firing order diagram 2003 jeep liberty which is #2 cylinder
Posted by nolteme on
You didn't supply the engine size,so I include both options.
Posted on Aug 28, 2010
cigarette lighter 2003 jeep liberty fuse which one is it in the panel.
Posted by Sarah... on
Posted on Oct 04, 2011
only heat when the car is accelerating. bad thermostat? or something worse. plenty of antifreeze
Posted by dajanitor9... on
if your temperature of your vechicle flunctuate and doesnt stay in the middle then its the thermostat if the temperature stays in the middle you will need to flush out your heatercore
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
I have jeep liberty 2003 and it has gear 3and 4 incorrect ratio. the trany does not want to shift th higher gears- any advice what it could be?
Posted by andrewles on
IT COULD BE SOLENOID PACK OR THE GOVERNOR AND TRANSDUCER OR LOW FLUID OR THE MOST COMMON REPAIR SPEEDS SENSORS INPUT/OUTPUT. ALL OF THESE CONTROLS THE SHIFTING. START WITH THE SENSORS FIRST, VERY COMMON.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
My problem is that front calipers do not fully release, putting constant friction on the rotors and also causing an annoying squeak. In addition it puts extra effort on the engine, thus decreasing gas mileage.
Should I start with replacing the calipers, or maybe master cylinder?
Another observation is that when the car is ''cold'', brakes are not making any noises - only after driving it for a while. I'm assuming initially the calipers work properly, and then the problem kicks in and they start to squeak.
Would it be brake fluid pressure problem causing the calipers not to fully let go?
FYI I have not noticed any leaks. Braking fluid stays at the same level.
Posted by Anonymous... on
The real problem may actually lie with the Brake Line Hoses. These are the Rubber Hoses that go from the metal brake line to the Calipers. Because of the changes in pressure, over time they will "fray" on the inside walls. These frays are gate like. Fluid will go out to the Calipers, but cannot return back up the line towards the Master Cylinder.
One easy way to check this, to find out where the problem is:
With the Hoses still attached, take the Calipers off, and remove the brake pads. Pump the brake several times to full expose the rubber dust boot around the Caliper Piston. DO NOT PUSH the Caliper all the way out! Using a block of wood and a 6-inch or larger C-clamp, place the block of wood over the Caliper Piston, place the C-clamp over the back side of the Caliper (do not put the C-clamp on the Hose connection). Screw the C-clamp in onto the wood onto the center most point of the Caliper Piston. The Caliper Piston should push straight back into the Caliper Bore with relative ease. However, if you encounter resistance- stop. Make sure the C-clamp is centered and pushing the Piston straight back evenly. If it is straight but still hard to push in, stop and remove the C-clamp and wood. Push on the Brake Pedal again to fully expose the Dust Boot around the Caliper Piston.Again do not push the Caliper Piston out of the Caliper!
Now remove the Brake Hose. To save on Brake Fluid loss, make sure you keep the Master Cylinder full, and the caps on tight.
After disconnection of the hose, raise the end of the hoses up and place in the Strut Coils.
Again using the C-clamp and wood, try pushing in the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (hole). If it now goes in without much resistance, the Calipers are fine and the Brake Hoses need to be replaced.
The Master Cylinder rarely fail but it is a possibility.
The other possibility is the Caliper Bolts and Guide Pins. These heat-up and warp, alowing the Caliper to work (brake) but then the Caliper will not release because these guides are warped.
I took the liberty to look-up the Parts and Prices:
(I don't work for them_
Autozone Part #70978 (driver-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #70979 (pass-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #H15911 (Caliper Guide Pin/Bolts) for around $5.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
How can I tell whether my 2003 Jeep Liberty has the 42RFE or 45RLE Automatic Transmission? Thanks.
Posted by rds529 on
What is your VIN number?
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
A pulled fuse panel for a 2003 Jeep Liberty, there are 39 fuses inside a vehicle. I need to know what these fuses are and what they go to.
Posted by generalbol... on
The fuse box diagram is a sticker placed on the inside of the fuse box cover. This cover is located on the left end of the instrument panel (driver side). The sticker just uses numbers to indicate the fuses. I will match the fuse number with its purpose:
1. Power Outlet, Front
2. Rear Fog Lights
4. Headlight, Low Beam, Right
5. Headlight, Low Beam, Left
6. Body Control Module / Power Door Locks
9. Right Park Light / Right Tail Light / Trailer Tow Lights / Cluster
12. Stop Lights
13. Body Control Module / CMTC / Cluster
15. PDC Fuel Pump and Auto Shut Down Relays / SKIS
16. Power Outlet Rear
17. Rear Wiper
18. Radio Choke
Posted on Jun 24, 2010
The rear wiper on my 2003 Jeep Liberty does not work. We took it into a shop, which initially tried replacing the motor. This did not work, and since they did not do electrical work, did not investigate further. What else could be wrong with the wiper, and how much will it cost to repair?
Posted by vickijobei... on
how is it not working, entirely not running, or just doesn't come in contact with the glass?
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
My 2003 Jeep Liberty heater is blowing cold air when idling. Warms up when you hit the accelerator. I also hear a water rolling sound upon take off after idling. Water pump? Heater Core?
Posted by Lori Lori on
Water level perhaps. When you hit the accelerator the water volume increases. Check your water level and make sure that your thermostat is opening and closing properly. Water level I'm thinking
Posted on Jan 21, 2011
Need a 2003 Jeep Liberty 3.7 liter drive belt diagram.
Posted by markmedeir... on
Here you go
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
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