Top 20 2001 BMW 325 Questions & Answers

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Could be a few things the vanos timing chain or the guides or your water pump

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bad door switch maybe?

The computer needs 12V in order to start.

have you checked the fuse and also the relay.

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I think you have a defective wheel bearing.

It's very unlikely that changing the spark plugs would cause the fault you describe. In fact I can't see how it could. Your car may not be using more fuel - it may be that the fuel gauge is giving a false reading of what is in the tank. I would suspect the fuel sender unit - it's in the fuel tank. The unit is electrically operated via a rheostat - as the float level moves up and down according to the level of fuel in the tank it alters the current - which gives a reading as your fuel gauge. You should be able to see the electrical connectors of the sender unit on the top of the tank (you may have to remove the rear seat or a panel inside the car - above the tank). Check the wires for cleanliness and security. If the problem persists ask a workshop for a second opinion. It's not a difficult job changing a sender unit, though I don't know how much one would cost for your vehicle.

there are 2 fuses. Numbers 28 & 50 are assigned to the blower..

Fixya does not sell parts. Contact a dealership or a parts store near you for a price

One is the oxygen sensor, the other is the catalytic converter performance monitor. They are referred to as the upstream and downstream sensors.

No it will not tilt.

Could be your rear wheel speed sensor(s) not super pricey but it is a BMW. I would replace those as your speedometer is electric not cable.
Average price is $270.00 USD I do believe. If that dosnt fix your problem you may need to replace the wiring as it may have been snagged and broken.

bad tire

You need to determine if it losing electrics or fuel. Does it sputter as it dies, or just dead off? Dead off usually means spark circuit has been interrupted. Think of things such as bad coil, crank sensor, ignition module. These items have electrical coils inside, which can develop a crack in a wire which heats as running and fails, then cools and will run again. If it seems fuel related, first check for bad gas cap vent, then use fuel pressure gauge situated so that you can see it while driving and see if pressure drops just before car dies. This could mean bad fuel pump, dirty filter, bad relay.

remove the intake manifold to gain access to it, it's on the driver side.

driver footwell towards the left on e46 model later models have it under the glove box it is a white contol module screwed on.

check the fan belts and power steering belt, also the crankshaft pully could be free spinning

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