20 Most Recent 2006 Acura RSX - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Here is an outline of the procedure to remove the axle shafts in this vehicle:

It is kind of lengthy, but it should be a nice step-by-step to get through the process, Hope this helps...


Special Tool Required
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200

  1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.

  1. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.
  2. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
  3. If the driveshaft is removed, drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer:
    • Manual transmission
    • Automatic transmission

6. Hold the stabilizer ball joint pin (A) with a hex wrench (B), and remove the flange nut (C)Separate the front stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm.

  1. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and remove the nut.
  2. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm (C) with the special tool. Be careful not to dislodge the lower ball joint from the knuckle.

  1. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
  2. Pry/tap the inboard joint (A) with a prybar, and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft (B) because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Left driveshaft

Right driveshaft


  1. Install a new set ring onto the set ring groove of the driveshaft (left driveshaft).

2. Apply 0.5 - 1.0 g (0.02 - 0.04 oz) of specified grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2 - 3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.

3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until the set ring (D) locks in the groove (E).

4. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).

  1. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the castle nut (D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening.
  2. Install the new lock pin (E) into the pin hole from the inside of the vehicle.

7. Connect the front stabilizer link (A) to the lower arm. Hold the stabilizer link ball joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the new flange nut (D).

  1. Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
  2. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the front wheel with the wheel nuts.
  3. Refill the transmission with recommended transmission fluid:
    • Manual transmission
    • Automatic transmission
  1. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Sep 18, 2011

The code means 'Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)' which means the computer thinks your catalytic convertor is not functioning properly. However, since the convertor itself doesn't have any sensors, how the computer knows this is via the O2 sensors (both before and aft of the cat). However, if the O2 sensor is dying or faulty it could give erroneous readings that would trigger this code, and the most common one to fail is the downstream, or Bank 1, sensor. The cat is very expensive to replace and usually that would be the last thing you would want to try. O2 sensor failure is quite common but you said you already changed it so.
Another reason you might see this code is if the internal coolant temp sensor is faulty or not functioning. If the computer thinks the coolant is warmer than it really is, it will run the fans more and keep the engine cooler. A cooler engine produces worse emissions than a hotter one so the cat wouldn't get up to the temperature it needs to be to function properly, thus triggering the code. Again, not an expensive sensor to replace and every dealer should be able to test them with a volt meter before blindly replacing them.

Finally, your original cat (and pre-cat) are warrantied by federal law for 8 yrs/80K miles so if your '02 is under 80K it should have been covered by Acura

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Aug 07, 2011

The minimum rotor specs is stamped on the rotor and is different with each manufacture which sets the standard. Measure the thickness with a micro-meter. Replace the rotor if it is below or near the minimum or has been grooved by worn pads.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Jun 25, 2011

its easy
just trace the clutch pedal and you will see tow plugs you want the top one just stick a jumper wire in there
now you bypassed the switch you can start without touching clutch pedal

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on May 29, 2011


Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Apr 19, 2011

lock all the doors ,and giggle keys side to side and check the lights until they go off that the way you undo alarm system

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Mar 23, 2011

DTC P1166: A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction

  1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
  2. Start the engine.
Is DTC P1166 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at C101 (located under the right side of the dash), C401 (located under the left side of the dash), C402 (located under under the left side of the dash) the A/F Sensor relay, the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and the ECM/PCM.

  1. Check the following fuse:
    • No.14 OPTION (30A) fuse in under-hood fuse/relay box.
    • No.2+B LAF HEATER (20A) fuse in under-dash fuse/relay box.
    • No. 4ACG (10A) in under-dash fuse/relay box.
Are any of the fuses blown?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

NO - Go to step 4.


  1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24, 30 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Go to step 5.


  1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A22 and A24.
Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Go to step 10.

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P).
  3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

  1. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E8 to body ground with a jumper wire, then measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24.
Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Repair open or short in the wire between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A1).

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector A (31P) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector.

  1. Check for continuity between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector terminal No.3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay, A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A22).

NO - Go to step 13.

  1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

  1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals E8 and A24.
Is there battery voltage?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1).

NO - Go to step 15.

  1. Check for continuity in the wires between the A/F Sensor and the fuses.
Is there continuity?

YES - The wires are OK. Replace the A/F Sensor relay.

NO Repair open in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Mar 17, 2011

I had the same problem with our 2004 RSX. First the driver's side window now the passenger side. They tried to glue the window back twice (driver's side) and ended up having to replace the window and tabs. Now the passenger side did the same thing. My wife put up the window and it kept going, coming out of the track. I'm assuming the window will have to be replaced. Waiting for Acura's ruling. Must be a flaw in the tabs/glue...should have been a recall.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Feb 14, 2011

There's none available....One way is to get the problem fixed and have the shop turn it off OR, Unhook your battery cable for 15-30 seconds. That should reset it...Keep in mind that if hte problem isn't fixed, The light will simply come back on.....

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Feb 10, 2011

99 times out of 100, if the O2 sensor has a heater circuit code, the sensor itself is the problem. The other 1 percent is usually wiring harness problems. Don't waste your time or money on an aftermarket sensor. I don't know exactly why, but every time I tried one, the car would come back in with "Oxygen/ Air Fuel Sensor Lean" codes. Get the sensor from the dealer.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Feb 06, 2011

What is the year and model as well as the engine size in your Acura? This code is usually related to the bank 1 camshaft position sensor circuit.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Jan 29, 2011

Try disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes then re install the negative cable and drive it see if the comoputer was sending out wrongful electronic tasks to other sensors, if it doesn't change I would look into the coil pack...test for power to the coil and spark cranking, check the cam/crankshaft sensors they can be tested by means of an expensive scanner/reader tool that reads the voltage values of the sensors while the engine is running.
Definately sounds like spark(ignition) is the culprit not fuel, you may even want to have the ignitor module tested as well on the same testing scanner.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Aug 29, 2010


I just watched your video on you tube and I would do the following.

1. Check all your heat shields on the exhaust system and make sure non of them are loose.If these are all tight and you can see non of them fouling any part of the exhaust then move to the next thing.

2. Remove the catalytic converter and try to see if the rattle has gone now. Sometimes if too much heat has been through them they will melt the core and form little balls which will bounce around inside the Cat. Converter.

3. If the exhaust system is all sweet then check fan-belt tensioner bearings, these can give the sound that something is ticking especially if they have a really badly worn ball cage. Also when your belt is off check the alternator by giving it a spin and make sure you hear no rumbling sounds from it.

4. If all these areas are ok then you got internal troubles with the engine top end or bottom end, which it sounds like to me. Even though you have had adjustments made to the lifters etc, if the lubricating orifice's in the cylinder head are blocked or get blocked then this will cause the lifters to rattle. Run an engine flush through it and change the oil and see what that is like.

5. If it is the bottom end, like mains or big ends you can find this out by fitting and oil gauge and running the engine, if at idle the oil pressure is not what it should be then you will have problems with your bottom end bearings.

I hope that this information is helpful and if you need more information just let me know.




Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Jul 30, 2010

You have worn cam bearings or a worn cam that struggles under a load

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Jul 30, 2010

Sounds like a loose belt,dirty fuel injectors or fault in ac compressor fan.Clean the radiator fan.Check the engine belt first.If its very old and looks worn out,then replace that belt.Other thing check the fan the radiator fan when its spinning .If its not spinning freely then its the problem.The fan bearing needs to be checked. Other thing to check is the dirty injectors.remove and clean the injectors and refit it and then check. Also the other possibilities to be checked in this case are:--- clicking or ticking sound when accelerating the gas pedal:---- The clicking is being caused by a bad exhaust-manifold gasket, which allows exhaust to escape its normal route from exhaust manifold to pipe to muffler. And in escaping that route, the leak makes noise as often as the piston nearest the leak purges exhaust from the cylinder in which it is operating. Hence a clicking noise that increases in frequency with an increase in RPMs. In some cases noise decreases when RPM rises. Check for loose sparks plugs also, lifters, fuel injectors, fan hitting shroud, water pump, belt tensioner.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Acura RSX Cars &... | Answered on Jul 30, 2010


What is the firing order for 2004 Acura RSX V-6 3.2 liter DOHC?

The firing order for 2004 Acura RSX V-6 3.2 liter DOHC is :-- 1-4-2-5-3-6. -------- 321 on left bank side and 654 on right bank side. This will help.Thanks.

on Mar 19, 2010 | Acura RSX Cars & Trucks

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