The airbag in your vehicle is an important safety device, and the airbag
module ensures the proper functioning of your vehicle's air bag. If
this module is not functioning properly, your airbag may not deploy
during a crash. When there is a malfunction, your airbag module warning
light will illuminate on your vehicle's dash. You will need to have the
airbag assembly checked out by a qualified mechanic, but once that is
done, you can reset the warning light and airbag module unit. If you've
never done this type of job before, it should only take you 5 minutes.
1
Open the hood and loosen the retaining nut on the negative cable wire cable clamp using a socket wrench.
2
Slide the cable clamp off the negative battery terminal.
3
Wait 3 to 5 seconds and
reconnect the battery terminal. Tighten the retaining nut using a socket
wrench. Once the power is restored, the airbag module should be reset.
4
Verify that the module has been
reset by turning the ignition key to the "II" position and checking to
make sure that the airbag light does not illuminate.
Instrument cluster ,it's not really running hot . Did you use an LCD Infrared Thermometer, Laser Sighting: Dual, -58° to 1472° Temp. Range to see actual temp of the engine , hook up a scan tool that can view coolant temp sensor data . What does it show engine temp is , does the PCM - engine computer energize the cooling fan ? Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .
Hello Richard,
There doesn't appear to be a freeze plug on the front of the block.
They are always located on the lower sides of the block.
If you can see water on the front of the engine do a visual inspection when the motor is off and cold.
Take a rag and dry off any noticeable moisture. Start the engine and let it warm up, carefully check all the areas listed below to see if you can isolate the leak.
The radiator could be leaking and dispersing coolant towards the motor while driving the car. A hose or fitting could be leaking. The intake manifold or thermostat gasket could be leaking. The water pump could be leaking at higher RPM's.
indicates a problem hydraulic follower or cam lobe problem
Best have it properly diagnosed first as followers are cheaper and noises are costly problem indicators if left unheeded
Yeah. Ring gear and pinions are a matched set. They both get replaced at the same time. You have to get the pinion depth and the backlash set properly also.
GM installs wiring harnesses and fuse blocks configured according to the original options for the vehicle. While the fuse block may have a spot for the relay, that doesn't mean the wiring is installed under the block for it, and that presents a problem as contacts in the block are pressed in and wired for specific options, and may be missing for this option in your truck. Even though you may have the fog light wires to connect to the relay and there is a place for the relay in the fuse block, there may not be the necessary relay socket connectors installed and they are almost impossible to retrofit (although you can try if the fog light wires you have also have the correct connector on the ends).
You can check if all necessary relay socket connectors are installed, and if so, you could try to figure out which wire is installed for the connection you are trying to make, and connect the purple wires to that wire. Otherwise, you may have to install the relay away from the block, and then make the necessary wiring connections (power, ground and output) to it.
I would say it's bad contacts in the ignition switch. Metals change dimensions depending on temperature, looks like 45 degrees is the trick point for whatever is in there. My 04 Silverado 5.3 with 196,000 has the ticking, but it is gone within 10-15 seconds.
My 2001 did the same thing when I shifted to drive or reverse. What I found is the pivot ball that connects shift cable to transmission had rusted off. I removed broken pieces then used 1/4 inch bolt double nutted to trans lever. Never had the problem again
Injjection spider failure is a common issue on. The 5.9 and 5.7 and i think also the 6.0. And causes a misifre. So can a bad plug or wire. I would start by replacing plug, wire, coil etc. First as that is easiest and cheapest.
My truck had the same issue and from I have read, it is pretty common. I just felt the heater hoses under the hood. If there is one hot and one cold, with the engine running and the heater set to maximum, rapidly squeeze and release the hot hose for about fifteen seconds.I just did this to my truck and it "Burped" the heater core. I got instant LAVA HOT air!! I hope this helps.
