20 Most Recent 1991 Volkswagen Cabriolet - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Ensure it has plenty of coolant in the radiator first. If the water is full to the correct level then you will need to get it "scanned" as it may have a faulty sensor.

engine hot and running,undo the topmost heater hose clip,making sure the water res is full,vent all the trapped air in the system.WEAR GLOVES,ITS HOT.all VW product(audi/vw/seat/skoda.MUST be vented after changing pump/thermo/rad.

CHECK ALL VACUUM HOSES FOR CONNECTION AND HOLES OR TEARS. THEN CHECK TIMING, AND FIRING ORDER ON PLUG WIRES.
GOOD LUCK

1342

vw autobox ???????? what is that meant to be.

1987 Volkswagen Cabriolet 1.8L FI SOHC 4cyl

1985-89 Scirocco and Cabriolet

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the fuel tank.
2. Remove the rear right wheel housing cover.
3. Disconnect the large breather hose from the filler neck.
4. Pull the gravity valve down leaving the hoses connected.
5. Unbolt the fuel pump bracket from the body and lower the pump.
6. Remove the fuel tank screw.
7. Disconnect the fuel pump hose and pull the blue hose from the return line.
8. Disconnect the brake hoses from both sides of the rear axle and plug them.
9. Disconnect the rear axle from both sides of the body and allow it to swing down and rest on the handbrake cable guides.
10. Unhook the rear muffler support lugs.
11. Disconnect the filler hose from the tank.
12. Support the tank, remove the tank fasteners and lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wires and breather hoses.
13. Remove the fuel tank.

To install:
If installing a new or used tank, make note of where the old foam strips were installed, and install new foam strips on the replacement tank in the same locations.

1. Raise and support tank. Connect the small breather hoses and fuel gauge sending unit wires. Install the tank fasteners.

When connecting the breather hoses, position the hose clips so that they do not make contact with the body.

1. Connect the filler hose to the tank and connect the rear muffler support lugs.
2. Raise the rear axle off the handbrake cable guides and install.
3. Connect the brake hoses and bleed the brakes.
4. Connect the return line and fuel pump hose.
5. Install the fuel tank screw.
6. Raise the fuel pump and attach the fuel pump bracket to the body.
7. Put the gravity valve back into its original (raised) position.
8. Connect the large breather hose to the filler neck.

When connecting the breather hose, position the hose clip so that it does not make contact with the body.

1. Install the right rear wheel housing cover.
2. Fill the tank and connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. 1: Fuel tank assembly used on the Rabbit Pick-up. Other models are similar

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

I don't know what engine you have, but all engines have timing marks on them. One on the crank will line up the engine to TDC on the number one piston, with the cover/s removed, you can see the cams aligned to their marks if the crank is on it's mark. A lot of cars use the same heads, cams on different engines, so they have more than one mark, when your crank is on TDC, the cam marks will be the ones you need. Either a diamond or a dot , or a slash. If your belt has broken and the engine ran for more than 2 seconds, take it to the junk yard, It will be shot. Hope this helps.

lift the hood and look at the side of the engine that has a smaller end,there you should see a brightly coloured tip on the of a long thin metal stick,at the bottom of this stick you will notice a high and low mark oil should be in the middle.adrian,,,,

Turn the crankshaft so that the mark on the flywheel lines up with the arrow on the bellhousing(Theres a plastic plug on the bellhousing to remove before you can do this. Confirm that no 1 piston is on TDC by inserting a plastic rod/straw or similar into no 1 cylinder plug hole. Turn the crankshaft quarter turn from its original position, when the rod reaches its highest point youre on TDC.
Remove tappet cover. Turn camshaft so that lobes on cylinder 1 point upward/away from head. Check cam pulley - on the inside of the cam pulley is a dot stamped into the rim of one of the teeth. Align this dot with the top on the head.
Adjust intermediate pulley so that the dot stamped on its rim lines up with the notch in the crankshaft pulley.
When fitting the belt keep tension on the parts of the belt indicated in the sketch. (Sorry sketch is so rudimentary)

When you have trouble getting into gears, it can be a clutch problem:

CHECKING TOTAL CLUTCH PEDAL TRAVEL Prior to free-play adjustment, check total pedal travel as follows:

1. Hook a tape measure to the top of the clutch pedal. Measure distance between the top of the pedal and the centerline of the steering wheel.
2. Depress the pedal and measure the total distance again. If the difference between the measurements exceeds 4.7 in. (119mm), the floor covering may be interfering with pedal travel.

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PEDAL FREE-PLAY Clutch pedal free-play should be 0.59 in. (15mm) for all Dashers and pre-1979 Rabbits and Sciroccos. On 1979 and later models, there should be 0.85–0.98 in. (21.5–25mm) of free-play. Clutch pedal free-play is the distance the pedal can be depressed before the linkage starts to act on the throwout bearing. Clutch free-play insures that the clutch plate is fully engaged and not slipping. Clutches with no or insufficient free-play often wear out quickly and give marginal power performance.

1. Adjust the clutch pedal free-play by loosening or tightening the two nuts (or locknut and threaded sleeve) on the cable near the oil filter on Fox, Dasher and Quantum. On the Rabbit, Jetta, GTI, Scirocco and Cabriolet, it is on the left side at the front of the transaxle. Fig. 1: Clutch pedal free-play checking/adjusting
   NOTE: Correct free-play cannot be measured correctly if the floor covering interferes with clutch pedal travel.
   
2. Loosen the locknut and loosen or tighten the adjusting nut or sleeve until desired play is present. Depress the clutch pedal several times and recheck free-play. Readjust if necessary. Tighten locknut.
3. On late models, VW recommends that a special tool (US5043) be used to determine proper adjustment. The procedure for adjustment is as follows:
   1. Depress the clutch pedal several times.
   2. Loosen the locknut and insert the tool.
   3. Adjust the sleeve until zero clearance between sleeve and tool is reached. Tighten locknut.
   4. Remove tool and depress clutch pedal at least five times. Check free-play at the clutch pedal.

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I need to know what model and year of car that you have.The most likely problem for bad shifts in a vw is that the bushing are worn out in the lower shift linkages of of the shift rod it's self.You can remove the rubber boot from the floor of the gear shift handle and you should be able to see the problem in the way it shifts.The clutch is not the problem or you would have a problem getting into all gears so start there.More info will be needed if this is an automatic,or if this a non-jetta based car,let me know what you have for a car please.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Dasher with Diesel Engines; Fox with A/C
(see Figure 2)

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Support the weight of the engine with either special tool 10-222 or use a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan. Don't jack the engine too high; just take the weight off the motor mounts. Be careful not to bend the oil pan.
3. On Dasher models, remove the engine/transaxle cover plate, then unbolt and remove the starter side motor mount and carrier. On Fox models, remove the mounting bolts from the engine mount support, rubber engine mount lower nut and clamp screw. Then, remove the engine mount support and mount.

Fig. 2: On Dasher models, remove the engine/transaxle cover plate, then unbolt and remove the starter side motor mount and carrier (arrows)

1. Label and disconnect the starter wiring.
2. Remove the bolts securing the starter and remove the starter.

To install:

1. Install the starter and tighten the nuts/bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
2. Connect the starter solenoid wires. Make sure that the wires are connected to the proper terminals and the wire nuts are tight.
3. Install the engine mounts and related components.
4. Lower the engine or remove the engine support.
5. Connect the battery cable.

Other Models
(see Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6)

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle with jackstands.
3. If necessary, label the small wires before disconnecting them.

Fig. 3: Unplug the connectors from the starter solenoid. Label them to ease installation later



Fig. 4: Remove the nut securing the large cables to the solenoid



Fig. 5: A box end wrench can be used to remove the standard bolt(s)



Fig. 6: Use a special socket to remove the Allen head bolts

1. Disconnect the large cable, which is the positive battery cable, from the solenoid.
2. Remove the top bolt first, then remove the bottom bolt while supporting the weight of the starter.
3. Pull the starter straight out.
4. On vehicles with manual transaxles, there is a bushing where the starter shaft fits into the bellhousing. If the shaft or bushing are worn or if the starter has been jamming, the bushing should be replaced. There is a special bushing removal tool available but a small inside bearing removal tool is usually sufficient.
   

To install:

1. If the bushing was removed, carefully drive the new bushing in until it is flush with the case.
2. Lift the starter into place and install the top bolt first. On 1.6L and 1.8L Golf, GTI and Jetta engines with manual transaxles, torque the starter mounting bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm). On other models, torque the starter mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
3. Connect the wires. Be careful not to overtighten the battery cable connection. The metal is soft and the threads will strip easily.

SOLENOID REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the starter.
2. Remove the nut which secures the connector strip on the end of the solenoid.
3. Take out the two retaining screws on the mounting bracket and withdraw the solenoid after it has been unhooked from the operating lever.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. In order to facilitate engagement of the lever, the pinion should be pulled out as far as possible when inserting the solenoid.

Good luck.

best and cheapest place would be a junk yard or buy one off of ebay.

I'm thinking it's a wired connection problems (if the replacement switch is new). I suggest reviewing these wiring diagrams to confirm their connections.

Diagram 19: 1990-93 Cabriolet Windshield Wiper/Washer Chassis Schematics



Diagram 21 1990-93 Cabriolet Headlights Chassis Schematics




Hope helped with this.

bring it to a mechanic.he has to reset the code for that.sorry

not sure if this will help but we have same problem on our 2003 beetle i,ve just been told theres a switch by the seat belt or b piller at the bottom that will disable the alarm but you have to do it everytime you lock the door

regards

alan

Check and replace the fuel filter as needed - or if all is OK, replace crankshaft position (engine speed) sensor.

bad gas