20 Most Recent 1989 Volkswagen Cabriolet - Page 4 Questions & Answers

yes. Depending on where your fuel filter is located, you can disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter and then try to crank the car over. If it spits fuel out of the disconnected line your pump is working, if not then it's bad. Another way to tell, but not always is when you car is started you hear a high pitched whining sound from the tanks. This is usually (again, not always) an indication of a fuel pump about to fail. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca

First, turn on the key, just to the run position.
try everything that should normally only work with the key on, headlights, turnsignals, horn etc.

the first three generations of vw had somewhat weak ignition switches, especially if the owner had a tonne of keys, keychains, teddy bears and **** dangling off their key ring.

if these thing do not work with the key in the on position, then you need an ignition switch.

if they do work you need to investigate further to find out if you have fuel delivery and\or correct fuel pressure and if you have spark

I would say you might have a weak oil pump. you should try and change the sensor first so u can make sure that its not the sensor.

Chances are you have a broken motor mount.

check spark and fuel delivery

CHECK THAT WIRE IN SENDER UNIT IS CLEAN AND TIGHT FITTING GL

Not a difficult job at all, just a tad-bit messy. Will need to follow the hose from the radiator to find the mounting location of the thermostat on the engine block.

VW doesn't install kill switches on their vehicles. A "very low" oil level can cause some of the newer VW's to not run, but this would be very unusual for a 1989 unless the oil level is off the dipstick. May want to raise the oil level nand check the fuses.

Can't be any more help not knowing the model of VW you have, sorry.

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yes,it's your computer module
it's dying or so.
it's the one cutting off the fuel system
i've seen that more than once
the fixer it's to replace the module.
but first to be sure.
unplug it for about 10 minutes.
then plug it back on
and test it and see what happens, if it runs fine for a while then definetly that's your problem.
or have your computer checked.

Do you mean that the shifter moves normally, and no gear engages, or the shifter won't go into the 5th gear position?
If the shifter won't go there, its probably a mis-adjusted linkage.
If it will go there, but you don't "feel" it go into gear, it could be that the ball and socket linkage rod for 5th gear has popped loose(this is common on higher mileage VWs with worn shifter parts) I recommend an entire shift bushing set be installed and then the proper adjustments can be made... Hope this helps...;-)

This problem can be tricky to solve... one thing I have run across is that some Cabrios have a factory fault that lets water leak though the firewall onto the fusebox! Needless to say this will cause any number of electrical problems due to the inevitable corrosion. The problem is fixed by inspecting under the hood directly above the fusebox (where the computer is mounted) Look for signs of debris or moisture. I have successfully repaired these with a good cleaning and the application of an asphalt based waterproofing membrane (unfortunately this was too late in some cases and neccesitated fusebox replacement!) Hope this helps... ;-)

Don' try this yourself unless you are VERY confident... I have seen many $500 kits RUINED by amateurs... Go to a shop that has proven experience with Cabrio tops, they are tricky to get just right!

the first thing is to figure out which pump... there is a transfer pump (in the fuel tank) and a high pressure pump (under the right rear of the car) get under the car and have someone turn the key to "run"... if you HEAR a humming sound coming from the pump that you can SEE, then it is most likely the transfer pump... if you hear NOTHING then remove the boot on the pump and check for voltage on the positive terminal using a light or a meter. If no voltage then check fuse or the fuel pump relay. (hint: you should hear a "clicking" sound with your ear close to the fuse panel when you turn the key...) VW fuel pumps are really reliable as long as you don't have too much dirt or water in the tank. Eliminate the electrical circuit and high pressure pump as suspects before looking at the transfer pump. Hope this helps.. (oh, and have a clamp handy when changing the high pressure pump to avoid a huge fuel spill!)

you probably just have a clogged fuel filter

Note that all cars don't have the same symptoms as stated in the following procedure to cure your problem.
Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

At the suggestion of a friend, I let the car warm up for up to 10 minutes before I drive and I do not have the problem.

an oil sending unit relays information such as oil pressure to the cars ecu.the oil sensor will relay information such as oil level

It sounds like the oil pressure is dropping at low speed. You may try to change the sending unit first sometimes that may fix it. Hot is going to be over 220 degrees.