2000 Ford Escort - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Probably the IAC (idle air control) valve. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+ford+escort+zx2+idle+control+valve More here https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+ford+escort+zx2+idle+surges+at+idle ..

Shoot me an email @ [email protected] and I will give you a couple of pictures on how to put your belt back on. You might want to consider buying a new belt.

On this website you find fuse box diagram and description for Ford Escort (2000) https://www.carknowledge.info/ford-escort-1997-2003-fuse-box-diagram/ https://www.autogenius.info/ford-escort-1997-2003-fuse-box-diagram/

It really sounds like one of the cv joints has failed. Even though boots are intact joint could be broke inside-just double check.

That is a difficult job, and impossible if you don't have experience on suspension /wheel work. Take it to Pep boys or a trusted chain

From what your saying it sounds like your fly wheel .or your starter's sylinoid may have some broken theeth.chech it out.

as you slow down you have your foot on the brake and that means that the brake booster has a vacuum leak is causing the rough idling and stopping before you spend a dollar have that checked out by starting the engine ( hand brake on) and if it idles ok , the apply the foot brake and it plays up , it is a brake booster vacuum leak problem the fix in that case is a replacement brake booster

First of all I don't recall any additional wiring or a junction box being attached to the negative battery terminal of a Ford Escort. I do however remember these things being fixed to the positive terminal... The first thing that should happen is your battery should be removed from the car and fully charged and tested and replaced if necessary. I suggest you note; in the case of a completely discharged battery it is possible to inadvertantly connect the battery charger wrongly and charge the battery back-to-front or so the polarity is reversed. Once there is a known good battery fitted to the car the correct way around and with any bad connections to or near the battery repaired it will be possible to begin the process of diagnosing the original problem(s). A car that started with a jump start should now start from the key and the charging system can be tested and repaired if found defective.. I suggest you entrust the work to an experienced person...

The idle air control andcthe throttle position sensor

Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected Gross Leak P0455 Ford Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected Gross Leak

Front crank shafts seal is leaking or powerstering pump shafts seal leaking

No, brakes a bled from the wheel cylinder.

i cannot tell you exactly where it is but I do know there are flaps that move as you turn the heat knob. it mixes hot and cold air to get the determined temp. if the door is stuck in the cold position though you will get no heat. all I can tell you is it will be in the middle to passenger side and you should see some sort of linkage hooking to it. note there is a direction/panel defrost etc. flap
there is a fresh air recirculate flap.
there is ahot cold flap. so what I am trying to say is if you dont get it on the first one keep trying. it could have electric actuators that move these flaps so dont necessarily look for metal rods or cables.generally you can tell if when you turn your knobs and they are very easy it is electric. but if you feel some resistance it will have cables/rods going to them. just start digging under that dash.

I assume this is an automatic? If the shift linkage is not damaged (jammed or disconnected the usual answer is the governer valve in the transmission is sticking. The fix for this normally involves pulling the trans out stripping it apart cleaning the governer valve new seals gaskets and reassembling. (translated lots of money) try using a auto trans flush to clean all the gunk out of the transmission. Run the trans through all the gears with the trans flush and try driving it (only short distance test drive as its not proper trans fluid) see if you can get it out of first gear (flatten the gas pedal and let the engine go to max revs on short bursts) once it shifts once or twice go back and remove the trans flush fluid and replace with correct specification auto trans fluid I would also change the transmission filter at this point if it was mine .

P0118 engine coolant temp circuit high input Possible causes Low coolant level Bad coolant sensor Bad thermostat Broken wire or poor connection at coolant sensor harness

obd is not going into closed loop, look for o2 sensor or iat sensor going bad

I would not venture a guess until I had the OBD2 fault codes read with scanner.

I found this picture. With fwd, I consider the transaxle mounts, included.

this is sure to the EVAP system. do a visual check on all hoses and connections to start. If you can view live data on a scan tool you can see what the pressure sensor is reading. It should only have vacuum on it when the system is testing for leaks. It vents to the canister which is "purged" by the solenoid into the intake to be burned. It will throw a code if the system won't hold a vaccum, or has a vaccum when its not supposed to.

Most parts stores have a part location chart in their system and can probably help you. On most vehicles this sensor in near where the top radiator hose goes into engine. There are 2 temp sensors--hte one with one wire usually supplies the dash gauge or lamp, the one with two wires is for the ECU.