1999 Ford Expedition - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Suit is short please remove the switch problem

Try to check that in youtube. there are tutorials

Call your local library and ask if they have online access to a shop manual. If so, go there and print out all the door trim fastener diagrams. Then print out the window regulator removal instructions and diagrams. If they don't have it, go to alldatadiy.com

I believe it has to b reset / retrained by dealer or mechanic who has ability to read what the vehicle is or isn't doing. If you don't hear the compressor running constantly, you most likely don't have a leak, basically it'll run long enough to level up the vehicle and you shouldn't hear it again. try and dissconnect the battery, for a minute or so try it again.

Front or rear ? Either way rear are on axle just inside leaf springs and the front should be just in from tires going up to inside wheel well .

Your air suspension is leaking, could be a air bag or line or a fitting or a dump valve. Get a spray bottle full of soapy water and start spraying down the air ride components and watch for bubbles.

8 ft lbs or 96 inch pounds. The sequence is not an issue.

the back driver side under the car it looks like an air tank

First thing is get the codes pulled. Even if the check engine light isn't on it will have stored codes in the computer. This will help figure out the problems.

The better scanners can hook up to a connector port and diagnose the air lift system. This saves diagnostic time and the expense of replacing good parts. The trigger for your air ride system is probably one that you would not imagine. The trunk lid switches and the door jam switches tell the car that it needs to lower or pump up the system. The idea is that you want the car lower to load passengers and to lift things into and out of the trunk. When these trigger signals reach the solenoids it is their job to add or release air. At least your pump is working. The diagnostic scanner will tell whether the solenoid is bad or a signal is missing to the solenoids. There is a master dump valve in front of the drivers wheel well to lower all ends at once.

check and test the actuator and modular for your 4x4

sounds like the solonoids in the solonoid block are sticking, check you tube, alot of videos on how to fix very common problem

I would start by checking the engine timing sounds like it may be retarded based you post.

no motors have the fault codes read as it could be an EVAP system problem

"Those assemblies" change from often year to year and always model to model changes or differences. But just go ahead and rip into it, it's always easier the second time around-then you know what you are doing. What's the problem? When you break the little plastic pieces, then you have found its tensile strength. I've seen only a few parts that are very difficult to replace. A lot are difficult to adjust correctly, but most are easy to replace.

Since you have located several components in your wiring you must be using a diagram. Look at your wiring diagram to see if the feed fuse has anything upstream that would cut off the power (like a relay or the ignition switch). If not, then the problem must be that the power from the feed fuse is not being turned off downstream. There must be another relay or the ignition switch is bad and keeping the power on. If there is nothing listed you have a melted wire or connection which is bridging power to the accessories. If your vehicle has a trailer plug, check the wires. Something is feeding power to a wire that normally is off. Sometimes I disconnect the battery and check continuity on the wires. Off is suppose the be Off so that some wires are not suppose to be grounded to complete a circuit. Its a different way of looking at whether some wire is grounding. In simple terms if a pigtail is disconnected and the wiring is showing continuity there is a problem.

Hey Joe, are you sure the cam moved? The cam is usually held in place by tension placed by the lifters/push rods/rocker arms/valve springs.. Check to see if the cam sprocket will only bolt up in one position, if so, you should be able to time everything... MAKE SURE ITS RIGHT - 300% RIGHT - BEFORE you reassemble... http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Ford/Expedition/Repair-Manual-Online Ford Expedition Workshop Owners Manual Free Download Haynes Repair Manual Ford Pick ups Expedition 1997 thru 1999 Haynes Amazon com Chilton Repair Manual Ford 1997 2003 Pickup 1997 2014... ....>>>>> http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HAY0/10320/N0033.oap?ck=Search_N0033_-1_-1&pt=N0033&ppt=C0008

the rpms drop because you are adding more of a load to it. it should level out after a few seconds.

More then likely the park lockout solenoid is sticking or the cable it operates is sticking.

the heater is a long plastic box and the mixer door is inside of the box. The stepping motor controls the door.