20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Windstar Questions & Answers

there is no separate anti theft module, it is part of the PCM which is the main computer in the van that runs the engine and emission system as well as the PATS (Passive Anti Theft)

Tell me your problem and perhaps I can give u and answer, I am a Ford Factory Technician.

1998 Ford... • Answered on May 17, 2021

the wiper fuses / relays are in the top left of the fusebox 26072464-4fjufq12tu5gpmpmsxl4f2eb-3-0.gif

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 17, 2020

Your ECT system registers wheel spin from the wheel speed sensors.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 13, 2020

Fuse's burn if a component in a system has an electrical failure wether it be permanent or intermittent or sometime electrical circuits have an electrical surge which can be caused by numerous things and the fuse will burn to protect the circuit. If your fuse is coninuously burning out then you need to do some investigative work. First I would locate the fuel pump relay and remove that then replace the fuse and see if it burns out, second if you can access it try to unplug the wiring to the pump and replace the fuse, third you should check the wiring going to the pump to see if there is damaged wiring. The last thing that may (but unlikely) be the problem would be the ECM that controls the system. If the first three fail you should try and have it properly diagnosed by good shop.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jun 04, 2019


Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.0L engine

Accessory serpentine belt routing-3.8L engine

1998 Ford... • Answered on Mar 26, 2019

Undr steern colum thers a blacbox w electronics..ucan pullout speakr carefully or cover it w tape to lessen sound

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jan 16, 2019

Check for bypass bracket kits at big auto parts stores or online.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Mar 18, 2018

If you use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic for a full charge is 12.6 volts, and yes the .6 is a big deal. Generally it says if voltage is 12.4 or below, you need to charge the battery. Just my opinion. Leave the meter leads touching the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank position, Does the reading drop, what is the reading? If it does drop very much, then check for an open circuit to starter. If it drops all the way to zero, your going to have to check battery and battery connections. I did look at your starter wiring diagram, it appears your security system is a starter motor disable. If the security system is the issue then you may need a scanner to communicate with your security system.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Feb 22, 2018

measurement of what

1998 Ford... • Answered on Feb 15, 2018

one of the door/van loading door switches has failed it thinks a door is open so the the interior light stays on and the door open warning will ding the interior light should have a switch to disable it or take out the bulb but you cant stop the dinging until you find the faulty latch switch and fix it

1998 Ford... • Answered on Feb 10, 2018

The warning chime is on because the GEM - generic electronic module think's the door is open . Your best bet ,have a qualified repair shop check it out . Unless you have a scanner that will talk with the GEM & the engine computer & ABS computer , checking DTC'S - dfiagnostic trouble codes . If you don't know about this , take it to a repair shop.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jan 24, 2018

Do you have a scan tool that can read sensor data PID'S ? 080 EGR and Catalytic Converter Tests EGR Test when I changed plugs one was a little wet. help Leaking fuel injector .

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jan 24, 2018

Your engine has IMRC (intake manifold runner controls) that are supposed to stay closed under 3000 rpms. Over time they get carboned up and can hang open causing poor performance. Try to manually close the valve, if it immediately opens again the diaphragm might be bad. It would require replacing that IMRC.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jan 11, 2018

First check all spark plugs wires and boots the 0304 is a #4 cylinder misfire and if it's a +jumping to - this is affecting the other sensors a bad plug boot should be looked for and also check for cracked spark plugs at #4 cylinder next if you find that there's a leaking +to- antifreeze or oil leaking into that cylinder will cause it also and you have fixed the problem now disconnect the battery cables for 5 minutes and then reconnect them now turn your key to the on position to get the dash lights on but do not start the car and observe the lights if the check engine light goes out and abs and air bag now start the engine this is the self test mode for the obd system if the check engine light stayed on then there's still a bad sensor and read the codes again if your driving and the check engine light comes back on now do the same read the codes for other components that are bad the #4 misfire will definitely throw a bunch of codes because of the + leak to - and the other sensors here will be getting + voltage where there shouldn't be next if your getting the 0401-0402 that's the egr valve saying that it's insufficient first then excessive second the grounding could be frying that egr control solenoid next the 1537 &1538 are the intake manifold runners on both sides bank 1&2 cylinder head sides and could've been caused by the egr codes from the first problem next the 1744 is the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position this can be also from the first problem but go to the transmission bulk head connector and unplug it and look for a fluid wet plug and connector or water from being loosely connected if water clean with denatured alcohol and let dry both sides bulk head and plug if you find fluid in the bulk head plug/connector you must drop the pan and change the bulk head and again clean the plug and change the transmission switches inside they are damaged from that same jumping off circuits from the fluid leak and also the water leak but maybe not you have to road test the van but I will tell you that the #4 cylinder misfire could be causing all the other codes but I wanted to include everything that's coming up because I am not there to check myself ok good luck Stephen

1998 Ford... • Answered on Jan 10, 2018

Go to online store reliable they have repair manuals I am sure you will get the solution. Here's the link Best Manuals

1998 Ford... • Answered on Nov 17, 2017

There is only thing will cause the check engine light to flash when you are driving and that is your catalyst converter is over heating and that is very dangerous if you continue to drive the van and the check engine light is flashing there is a very real possibility your van can catch on fire. What causes the catalyst converter to get hot is that raw fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system. That system can get so hot that it will glow cherry red it’s easier to see it at night. Please make sure and are expecting your problem correctly and if you are take it to a shop because you have more than one problem and the van is not safe to drive If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 30, 2017

https://s1.postimg.org/1i7q5btlu7/headlamps.jpg Click on the link. The top wires to headlamp are voltage for hi or lo beam. The bottom black wire is ground. You can use a test light to check voltage and ground.

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 29, 2017

Have you checked the owners manual for possible causes of the alarm?

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 27, 2017

Heavy load in park sounds like a transmission issue. The torque converter and transmission pump are still spinning in park

1998 Ford... • Answered on Oct 27, 2017

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