1997 Ford Escort - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The only thing I can think of is the vacuum leak in the back of your motor next to the firewall there's a main vacuum it operates all the vacuum check that little 90° angle hose that goes into your manifold.

you have to remove the braces under the pan

Leaky fuel lines or dead cylinder - gas/air mixture is un-burned and comes through exhaust

did the pads have a shiny glaze? If so, use sand paper or emery cloth to remove the glaze. Maybe you have a problem with wheel bearing?

Pull a spark plug wire off and use a 12 volt testing light put it in the spark plug wire and have someone turn the engine over and see if you are getting spark.

High idle rough idle Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

1. Wheel mounts to shaft. (does not typically wear) 2. Shaft has a joint I think. (does not typically wear) 3. Shaft knuckle attaches to steering rack. (does not typically wear) The following components do wear. 4. Pinion gear connects to rack. 5. Inner tie-rods connect to rack. 6. Inner tie-rods connect to outer tie-rods. Sitting still, engine off, you should be able to jiggle the wheel back and forth. Depending on the sound, point at which I feel contact through the wheel, I can usually tell which component is worn. Many years ago I had replaced a rack & pinion when a mechanic had diagnosed it as the source for a knocking noise. My steering was much tighter post replacement. But the most common wear item in the steering system are the outer tie-rods ends. I don't think too many inner tie-rods wear, but it definitely happens as well. My case may have been more unusual or people just ignore it since it isn't a safety issue; don't know. It's also possible for certain suspension components to create noise, but should be ignored as a potential cause until the obvious and more likely steering components are eliminated. Intuit, Oct 1, 2012 #2

2. denisond3ModeratorStaff Member

   Messages: 8,404 Likes Received: Trophy Points: 363 Location: south TX or northern VA Pinion Mount Bushings, between the rack housing and the firewall, that have gotten chewed up from age or have worked their way out sideways from under the two clamping brackets. The effect is as if there was another driver steering slightly after you move the steering wheel. If you have someone work the steering wheel back and forth, while you look behind the enginedown at the lower part of the firewall, you may see the steering rack and pinion moving back and forth noticeably. You can buy the bushings in auto parts places, at least www.carquest.com shows them. If you type 'rack and pinion mount bushings' into the search window at a carquest website, then click on the link of that name - and keep sliding down the rather long page to see the images. They have carquest part numbers like 577-7045 (right) & 577-7046 (left), or KB0367 for the pair; about $6 each. Installing them is straight forward, though maybe not easy. You have to work from underneath upward, with a 14mm deep socket: And the 4 nuts holding the two clamping brackets in place may be stiff from corrosion. With both of the ones I had to replace, it took me a lot of effort to work the nuts free, squirting penetrating oil up and working them a quarter of a turn back and forth at a time until they freed up. I used a 6 point socket so I wouldnt be damaging the nuts). Then I pried the rack slightly forward to slide the old bushings out and the new ones in. When done, the steering no longer had that mushy feeling. The other things intuit mentioned are also worth checking - since the steering components seldom wear out one at a time. denisond3, Oct 1, 2012 #3

3. sketchmanFEOA Member

   Messages: 241 Likes Received: Trophy Points: 76 Location: USA U joint between the rack and the column and then wiggle the wheel back and forth to see if they both move uniformly. If they do, be happy and go on to checking the outer tie rod endsand the lower ball joints. I had been through this before with my sedan, so after the "grab and wiggle" I just ordered both outer tie rod ends and both ball joints and did them all at once. Problem solved. My outer tie rods were so bad I could hold one in my hand and move(not pivot but actually move the whole thing) the stud and ball back and forth with 2 fingers so much it scared me to know It'd been driven with them installed. It's amazing how bad they can get, and people don't understand so they just keep driving it.

Hi! You may want to start looking at the fuse box located underneath the dash on the driver's side. The fusebox cover usually has a legend that tells you the designated fuses and amperes. Replace the horn fuse if busted. Have a nice day

Rubbish. Find out whether the misfire is due to low compression or a bad coil pack. Low compression would be the most expensive since an overhaul would be needed. If a coil pack is bad, it's a simple fix and not too bad on the pocket book

It's called an inhibit relay , an it is located in the battery junction or instrument panel fuse box.And it's controlled by the RAP module. remote anti-theft personality module. Do you know what a regular relay look's like one inch square little plastic box ? The solenoid is on the starter .

sounds like a core plug corroded through ,i can only suggest you ask a local mechanic to have a look for you .

there is a welsh plug at the back of the motor or head which will be rusted and leaking down the back onto the bell housing and transmission

You do have a security system. This should be transponder type security system, I don't believe it will start without key fob. There is an inhibitor relay for your starter motor circuit and security system. Check for applicable trouble codes, if there are any? Maybe you local dealership, talk to service department, see if they can get you a key fob. Go at it that way. I don't know about the cost? You can usually jump the starter motor to see if it will crank the engine, but, that doesn't mean it will start. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Safety is your responsibility.

Is there water in the exhaust system?

Is the antifreeze level low? If so pull the oil dipstick is it milky looking? If so you blew a head gasket and antifreeze is getting in the cylinders causing a miss and that is your shaking.

Hey, well 1st. If the engine light came on I would scan 4 error codes or have any auto shops scan it 4 you so you can clearly know where to start and how serious is it. As if it died on ya a few times already, it may b somthing big and u not doing yr self any favers by keep pushing that cas., a specialy if thats the 1 that feeds you At the moment ????. Hope that helps . G/luck .??.. Tony

try this test place in neutral with the park brake on start the engine if it idles alright put your foot on the brake if it falters or plays up ,it is a vacuum leak in the brake booster replace the booster

follow a mate in his car and when he has done 5 miles see what your speedo is reading

Have you tried rocking the car back and forth while putting presssure on the shifter ? You wil need help to do this but it sometimes works

Hope this helps.