20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Escort - Page 7 Questions & Answers

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there must be a drain somewhere , check that all interior lights are off when ignition is off , usual one's forgotton are in the trunk, map/glove box even under hood if fitted , if non found disconnect the neg battery terminal and place a test light on the terminal and the other end on the earth lead , if it lights up then you def have a drain somewhere , i would suggest that to find the problem component that you remove a fuse at a time until the light goes off , you will then know what circuit the problem is on and can investigate that circuit

just one of those things , try holding the nozzle as far out of the filler neck tube as you can with out spilling the fuel or try with the nozzle up the other way a little bit awkward but does let the air out of tank without pushing fuel back up filler

i'd suggest getting the fuel pressure checked as sound's like a faulty fuel pump , i'd start there then work your way through the electronic ignition system etc

Should be in the fuel line either behind the engine or under the car near the gas tank.

The last picture below is a picture of The fuel pump inertia switch for a 1997 Ford Escort. it is located inside the trunk immediately below the hole in the trunk side trim on the drivers side. You first should disconnect the electrical connector for the inertia switch. Then start engine and let run till the engine stalls as to relieve the fuel pressure. Make sure to reconnect it after finishing the replacement of the filter.

Have you checked compression? Ford 2.0L engines are bad about dropping exhaust valve seats. Also are you sure your valve timing is correct? Possible timing belt problem.

The coil pack should should be the device you plug your spark plug wires into. if it is round, then it is a distributor not a coil pack, if it is square and looks like there are relays coming of it, it is a coil pack. to replace this, you simply mach the wires to the corresponding diodes on the new device, unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. plugging in any connecters you might have forgotten.

The coolant sensor in Ford Escort 1997 is at the back side of the engine beside the ignition distributor. It has two wires, a black one, and a brown. The access to it quite difficult.

I dont think you have one. If you car is front wheel drive, you do not have one. It's the rear wheel drive gear box and should get new fluid every 50 or 60K.

the code p1300 is BOOST CALIBRATION FAULT

not so much as a sensor its more likely the switch on the back of the fan thats malfuctioning

The mix-up in categories is problematic here. To answer, the 171, and 174 are lean codes and can be the mass flow meter or fuel pressure when they appear together. The 500 code is for speed sensing and the 313 is a random misfire usually due to low fuel pressure. Since you have more than 1 indication about fuel pressure, this would be a place to look. As you have a BMW instead of a Ford, the fuel pressure on a Ford is partially determined by the crankshaft sensor and the RPM. Now your 500 Code on a BMW may do something about fuel pressure based on vehicle speed. I am not familiar with BMW. It could be that wheel speed has something to do with available fuel pressure and a misread from your 500 Code is cutting fuel pressure and causing all the other Codes. You might want to relist under the BMW header with your same question.

As far as the timing belt,if it has been on the car 7 yearsor 75,000 miles, you just install a new water pump,belt &all the pulleys & tensioners in one kit,after you check cylinderintegrity,valves,compression & suchA cylinder contribution test is done first with an oscilloscope& software to do that.Once the above mechanical condition of the motor isout of the issue, you move on to other testsSmoke testing for vacuum leaks,fuel & spark issues,etc.Can you check timing belt-- if fairly new,yesYou can put a camera wand behind any dust cover& you can use your scope software again to look at cam,crank,injector & spark events in relation to when they should happenNow the problem ! To find a shop that has that knowledge,equipment and skill level,not many do.All your mentioned parts can & should also be componenttested, in the proper sequence, if necessaryWhat can you doYou can try & get access to check the timing beltUsing a timing light,no,scan tool to look at data yesYou can test some,a few items, maybe,yourself ifyou Google & study up some on how to do itYou Tube Video is a place you should spend sometime on any subject

the differential is that item that allows one shaft to move separate to the other connected shaft. That is to say the left wheel to go faster /slower than the right wheel as in going around a corner or moving on uneven ground. There is one in front wheel drive vehicles , in rear wheel drive vehicles , and if you have an All wheel drive vehicle there is another between the front wheels and the rear wheels in the transfer case /gearbox. Unless you have metal or water contamination in the unit or have used the wrong oil in the unit it is not necessary to flush out the diff. Changing the oil as you would the sump oil is sufficient ( drain out and refill).A word of caution here. There is a special oil used in limited slip differentials so make sure that you replace the drained oil with the correct oil for the diff as damage will result if you don't.

the oil pump is internal to the engine and can be accessed by first draining the oil ,remove the oil pan/sump then you can replace the pump,also change the filter at the same time and make sure you clean the old gasket off before fitting new