20 Most Recent 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It is in the distributor.And the plug in sticks out the side of the distributor.

It is highly likely that you have a drain.

1. Check and make sure that the glove box is shutting off the light inside the glove box when you shut the door.
   
2. Check and make sure the dome light is set on door or shuts off.
3. If you have a test light and someone to help, you can check for a drain.
   
4. Remove the negative battery terminal and place the test light between the terminal and battery post. If it lights up you have a drain.
   
5. With a assistant to watch the test light, go to the fuse panel and start pulling a fuse out one at a time and then replacing, at the same time with the assistant watching to see if the test light goes out.
6. When the test light goes out you have found you drain.
   

Check the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box

Your CV joint is going out. But first check rack and pinion mounting bolts they may be loose.

The first thing to do is call or better yet stop by, an auto junk yard and ask if there are any major differences that would rule out this swap. They have
parts interchange charts, that can help you in this swap. (they don't sell these charts but they can answer ? you may have) Use as many sensors as
you can from the bad eng. Avoid cutting any wires,
use the old flywheel, for torque conv.+sensor reasons. If the a/c comp. looks different use the old
one. The block and head should have all the same
holes in them for mounting brackets and such.
Hope this helps. Good luck

That is the same as your VIN. It is usually located on the dash and can be seen throught the windshield, or you can read it from your title/ownership.

sounz like the turbo or waste gate may be giving you problems. Check to see the waste gate on the turbo is closing properly.

hi from uk have you removed the c v joint from/off the driveshaft ? it has a circlip on the inside of cv spined that keeps d/shaft in place then joint can be cleaned /repacked with grease and the boot is easily fitted/secured after sliding onto d/shaft 1st then cv jount pushed back onto shaft till circlip locks in place hope this helps ?

no it does not have a modulator valve ford has not used a mod valve since earley 80s

check to see if your O2 sensors are ok. if they aren't replace em and go from there. it could also be a vacuum line that is messed up or cracked check any line u see and see if they are ok to.

There is the unlikely possibility that the low beam bulbs are both burned out, but more than likely it would be the high beam switch that is the cause.

Hi, this is unusual to have it leak at the speedometer cable. First, you will need to replace the cable. Screws to the side of the transmission, and under the dash also. May be a tight area to get you're hand in under dash to unscrew. To refill a standard transmission, you will have to get the right oil, it is a heavy oil, and a small hand pump that fits on the fluid top. They are plastic and inexpensive. You have to have one.On the side of the tranny will be a fill plug about half way or more up. This is to add fluid. Remove with adjustable wrench and insert pump hose. Add to where the fluid just begins to roll out. Stop! It is full.Install and tighten plug.You should have no problems.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

look in the passenger side foot well inside the kick panel, hope this helps, let me know

In the boot, under carpet you should find the spare wheel, the jack is normally in there also... enclosed in a carry tray sitting inside the rim of the spare

just put one of these with a blinder of an engine in the scrapyard ,the owner had used cooking oil and damaged the injector pump .Your one could be an injector ,cheap and easy to repair ,but it could be worse ,like a worn big end or a hole in a piston .To be honest call a mobile mechanic to have a look

Remove valve cover and to see if it look oily if it does more then likely that's not the noise. I would remove the upper timing belt cover and check the timing belt idler pulley bearing.

THE FILTER IS UNDER THE HOOD MOUNTED TO THE FIREWALL OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, IT IS HELD IN PLACE BY A HOOP BRACKET.

Depends on if it a 1.9 or a 1.8. The 1.9 is simple, follow the coil wire coming out of the distrubuter thats not going to a spark plug and remove the wire from the coil the electrical connerter that has two small wires and the bolts that hold the bracket to the cylinder head. on the work bench saparate the bracket from the coil and put it on the new coil then bolt it on the engine then plug in the wires and go. The 1.8 is the Mazda derived motor and the coil is inside the distrubuter heald on with 2 bolts and nuts and 2 bolted on wire connections. Be careful as the parts are expensive and seldom fail so the parts store may have to sell you the whole expensive distrubutor to get it going. Coils selodom fail. You did'nt ask what to do if you don't have spark. the coil is unlikly to be the cause on an engine that ran OK last time you drove it. Timing belt breaking and the cam and dist. not turning, are real common.