Top 10 2004 Ford Ranger Questions & Answers

I would check your crankshaft positing sensor this may be bad. I would also change your spark plugs and wires becuase they may have got water in them causing a short between them and the head. I would very carefully use air to clean the dirt from your engine compartment first. Autozone runs a free code check for you and this will tell you your problem. To clear your codes and to make the check engine light go off take off your battery cables and wait 30 minutes. You may also have a bad coil which will cause a misfire as well and a 306 error means a misfire to your 6th cylinder so it's probaly this. I hope this information helps.

The diagram you seek is below.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

in the power distribution box under the hood by the battery,
in mine it's number 46 b i think.
There's a diagram in your owner's manual in the section on fuses and relays

if you have a 4 cylinder you have a timing belt
if you have a 6 cylinder you have a timing chain

Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.

Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)

1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.

Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.

This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm

Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)

Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.

The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.

When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.

Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.

This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405

Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.

Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)

Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.

Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')

2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.

Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.

If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.

I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.

For the 3.0L
Firing Order:
1-4-2-5-3-6

Cylinders:
(back of vehicle)
3-------6
2-------5
1-------4
(front of vehicle)

Ignition Coil:
(back of vehicle)
3-----4
2-----6
1-----5
(front of vehicle)

Hope this helps,Chuck

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/256814-fuse-panel-diagram.html

Torque sequence ------------ front ' 6 4 2 8 ' ' 5 1 3 7 ' ------------ Step 1: torque in sequence to 59 Ft/Lbs Step 2: loosen all bolts in sequence (1) full turn Step 3: torque in sequence to 40 Ft/Lbs Step 4: torque in sequence to 73 Ft/Lbs recheck final torque in sequence