20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra - Page 5 Questions & Answers

what motor?

Is the PCM power relay activating? If yes, you should hear the fuel pump hum for 5 seconds when the key is turned to ON.

If yes, then check the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors to be sure they have output to the PCM.

The crankshaft position sensor:

• sends the powertrain control module a signal indicating crankshaft position.
• is essential for calculating spark timing.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (Integrated Ignition Systems) The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is a magnetic transducer mounted on the engine block adjacent to a pulse wheel located on the crankshaft. By monitoring the crankshaft mounted pulse wheel, the CKP is the primary sensor for ignition information to the powertrain control module (PCM). The trigger wheel has a total of 35 teeth spaced 10 degrees apart with one empty space for a missing tooth. The 6.8L ten cylinder pulse wheel has 39 teeth spaced 9 degrees apart and one 9 degree empty space for a missing tooth. By monitoring the trigger wheel, the CKP indicates crankshaft position and speed information to the PCM. By monitoring the missing tooth, the CKP is also able to identify piston travel in order to synchronize the ignition system and provide a way of tracking the angular position of the crankshaft relative to fixed reference (Figure 23) .


Camshaft Position Sensor The camshaft position (CMP) sensor detects the position of the camshaft. The CMP sensor identifies when piston No. 1 is on its compression stroke. A signal is then sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) and used for synchronizing the firing of sequential fuel injectors. The Coil On Plug (COP) Ignition applications also use the CMP signal to select the proper ignition coil to fire. The input circuit to the PCM is referred to as the CMP input or circuit.
There are two types of CMP sensors: the three pin connector Hall-effect type sensor (Figure 20) and the two pin connector variable reluctance sensor (Figure 21).



A4 CHECK VREF VOLTAGE TO THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR

• Disconnect TP sensor.
• Key on, engine off.
• Measure voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuit at the TP sensor harness connector. Refer to the schematic in Pinpoint Test DH .

Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? -------- A17 CHECK PCM DRIVER TO COILS

• Connect incandescent test lamp between B+ and each coil driver circuit at the harness connector.
• Crank engine.

Does lamp blink consistently and brightly (one blink per engine revolution)?

Hello, This code indicates you have problems with an O2 sensor. The sensor should be on Bank2 and should be the sensor closest to the exhaust manifold. Causing a lean condition.

Check your wire connector to this sensor and the wires leading from it. The defect is saying the heating circuit in this sensor is defective. This can mean the wires going to the sensor are burned or the connector is dirty. Or the sensor is just plain bad.

You can get your scans free at Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance and you may want to have them clear the code after your repair.

Hey...I went through the same problem. It seems that if you have the stock mac stereo system and the fuses are not blown up, is more likely that your three amps do not work either. You have to rewire the car's stereo system from the car's stereo directly onto the speakers or an amp if you choose to include more sound. As for the power windows, as frustrating as it may seem, change the double throw double pole in each door. The connectors corrode from the inside. Try scraping off the copper metal and it will work for a few days and it will not work again... So just reorder a new from Ford. They run up to 40$ ok? Ben

Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).

Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.

1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine

3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.

Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator




Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws




Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes





3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.

4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.



Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder




Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator




=========================================================
To install:

1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).

2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.

3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.

Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing




Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole





4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Both windows are fused from the same location. Most likely the window motor has gone out or a malfunction this the track mechanism. Check to make sure the window switch in the door handle is good first. Take the switch out, take the wires off the back of switch and jump the wires/connectors together. If window works, replace switch. If all you hear is motor hum or no sound from motor, motor is bad. Window motors usually start to slow down (window rolls up slowly) before they go out.

Yes, you can drive it, as long as you don't force it. At that mileage all the bearings are reaching their end of life, while you are replacing one you should replace them all. Check also the status of the synchro rings.

Not sure aboyt those but some screw in.

Not knowing how many miles are on it, the first thing is to change the spark plugs, fuel filter and air cleaner to start. General lack of service will cause a graudual loss in peformance.

Go to this ford website and download the owners manual for your vehicle. It's free.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

check the ownes manual. There should be a fuel shutoff switch in the trunk near the gas filler neck. There is probably a hole in the carpet (inside the trunk). Look for it, open it up a but and look for a black or red button. Push it. You may have to turn the ignition switch partly on before pushing it.

It is all I have with the limited information but good luck and please rate me.

-Mark

Try to look the Owners Manual in this site: fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Hope helps.

Get an owners manual here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

Go to page 115. Let me know if you have more questions.

check for faulty fuse in fuse boxs/relays for light

details?

Have you tried to start it in neutral? Move the shifter or if it is a clutch maybe you are not depressing it enough. It might be a safety switch. More information needed.

You'll need the K-member from a 94'-95' v6 or GT, along with the correct motor mounts. once you have that it should drop right in. But there are many more parts you'll need to make it work like a 5.0 tranny, exhaust, wiring, pcm, radiator, and maybe more. Look in the Ford Racing catalog and drop a 4.6L Cobra motor in there. A lot fewer parts to buy. Also if your state has car inspections the 5.0 is not OBDII, and should only be attempted if its going to be a "race only" car.

Sounds like the head gasket went. rinse the engine down, let dry and start it, ( make sure engine is cold and top of coolant if needed), let engine get warm and look in that area, should be easier to see. Not an uncommon problem

one hose hot ,the other not ,heater core is plugged,
Might try an aftermarket T fitting at the cold hose ,unhook the hot one from the engine (engine off) and backflush it .
But to be right the core should be changed,no fun.

check to see if fuel pump is running when key is turn on. also check fuses to pump or ignition