20 Most Recent 1986 Ford Taurus - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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When the problem is ongoing, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs, proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes? In my opinion, those are the basic tests. You might rule out the maf sensor, where applicable. With everything off, unplug it. Then start the vehicle and drive it, if it does better then check the maf system.

Take it out and screw it back in there are 2 pieces the one you plug into and the the screw on base that tightens it to hold it in place very simple to do

First stop would be the fuel filter. Second choice is fuel pump, probably located in the gas tank. If ever stranded by cranky fuel pump, take a rock or 6 inch length of 2x4 and whack the underside of the tank. It generally works to get you home but don't continue driving this way.

You are confused about humidity versus vapor lock. Vapor lock is when high temperatures cause the trapped liquid gasoline in the fuel lines to turn into a gas from a liquid state. Humidity on the other hand allows electricity to travel into places that it is not wired to enter. Humidity also allows parts to ground out when they should not. Some of your relays work by arranging connections to reach a ground(-) negative charge when they are switched to activate. These are the good times. The bad times are when the switch does not have to be activated to do the same thing because humidity has interfered. Your mechanic is correct to an extent about some of the vapor lock not being possible in modern cars. Your problems are very hard to find when they are intermittent. The built-in diagnostic system in your car usually will not find an intermittent problem. There are a few high priced testers that Dealers can attach to your car to make readings the built-in system in your car can not find. They may show a few things to point to a problem, but it would be best for the problem to occur when these fancy testers are hooked up. So these tests are perhaps the best solution. And you are not guessing by replacing the wrong parts. I would start in the meantime by having the battery load tested. Then make sure the ground wires are making a good connection.

If you are able to drive the car to an Autozone, Advance or Oreilly's parts store they will use a scanner to tell you what the engine light is trying to tell you. Its free and sometimes the part is one that is simple to replace. If you do not work on this stuff yourself, you can price the repair now as you can name the problem but need help in fixing it.

I bet the patch blew out

Maybe you should take it to a qualified repair shop.

Have the ignition wires and plugs been checked? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

Get an older car with less computers running it. Sorry I can't be of any real help. I just wanted to a bit smart-elec.

Easy when you get foam it is a bad O RING causing this problem

check you tube.

Those IAC motors are specific to the engine and have a number on them that has to be matched.

you have to break through what is left of the lock and use a long flat blade screwdriver, manually turn the interior latch. The lock actually has a long rod that reaches back to the latch so you need to get all of that stuff out and then use your screwdriver instead. We do a few of these on ocus's and so on, usually when the lock barrel packs up... Most garages will have a tech who knows how to do it....

Check for a blown fuse.

here you go

this should help

I'm confused do you mean points there are none there's a ignition module did you mean tps (throttle position sensor )it's on the throttle body unless you have a drive by wire throttle motor

check for a broken catalytic muffler there is a screen inside maybe broken