1985 Ford Ranger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Has a engine misfire or ignition control module is bad . Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop that can diagnose the problem by testing an not guessing .

Somewhere in the wiring you have a bare wire that is touching to ground, which on an old truck is kinda common, there is nmot quick fix or one thing that is causing this, you need to check the whole wiring harness from the switch to the taillights. Here is alink to a poss source of wiring diagras for the truck. http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

From the fuel tank along the driver side frame rail up to the engine.

If the starter motor continues to operate with the ignition not in the start position, suspect a faulty starter solenoid located by the battery area

If you have a stick shift that goes directly into the top of the box, the problem could be a missing pivot pin in the ball at the bottom of the stick under that ball and directly at the end if the stick is a smaller ball that should have a plastic cup attached that cup fits neatly into the selector rail slots if it is missing ( probably broke up and fallen to the bottom of the box) the shift will be very sloppy if the pivot in the turret is missing ( probably fallen out on the raid) the lever has no leverage point to move the selector rails

They make a module wrench just for those. Any good parts store will have them. If it looks like a bolt head a 7/32 will work but it needs to be a very thin wall. If it is a torx it is a T-20 I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Matthew, I assume you have replaced the missing carb with a new one, is it an OEM original? or an after market? It matters what carb you put on because of smog laws and whether or not the carb you bought is smog legal for your truck, if it is not the exact same as the factory original then there wont be a correct vacuum line schematic. If when you do have the correct replacement carb then type in (1985 ford ranger, v6 2.8l vacuum line diagram) in to your google search engine, search under " images" there you will find lots of diagrams of vacuum line routing. If you are not able to do any of this then take the truck to a qualified service tech, there are also mobile service mechanics that can help, good luck to you sir. One final note, you can plug each of the vacuum outlets on the carburetor with the appropriate size vacuum caps, this will allow you to start the engine and make minor adjustments, then you can drive the truck to a qualified tech

No idea & I doubt anyone knows That doesn't really tell us why your asking If you got no stick or some issue with it Try a salvage yard for one,you do after all, know the motor you have & oil pan configuration

Being an 85, I would start by replacing all the vacuum lines and fittings, along with the pcv valve. Next would be a tune up, clean the throttle/carb and a fuel and air filter.

I am not sure..sounds funny though, may be the battery.

I went to Google search and typed in, "1985 ford ranger vacuum line route", came up with lots of schematics

The best is that oil that comes in it from the factory. The book that came with the truck or a good service station can tell.

Could be low on coolant, or the thermostat is not closing.

How's the inside of the cap and rotor ? It could be cross-firing inside the cap. You could also have a major vac leak somewhere and the engine is starving for fuel.

The gas sending unit in the tank is rusted

The distributor may have been in the correct position to begin with, if you were on the exhaust stroke of #1 at TDC.A square bar...can't imagine that. When you pull a distributor out, nothing is supposed to come out with it except the shaft with the turning gear, or the slotted end of shaft. Does yours have the shaft with the bar that fits into a slot down in the dizzy hole?I can explain how to find the compression stroke of #1, if that's what you need, but post back, and we'll see if we're on the same page, so to speak.

What have you checked so far ?

Check all vacuum hoses for cracks and disconnections. Also check pcv and egr

It could be the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank or the wiring going to the sending unit.

You need to run a electronic engine control fault code test to see what is in memory. To do this test and see meanings of codes received go here.