Top 20 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - Page 7 Questions & Answers

First thing to check would be the brake switch

Sounds like the fuel pump is over heating causing it to blow the circuit. the fuel pump may be bad..Hope this helps.Have a great day I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

There should be two (2) fairly large hex-head bolts on the back side of the hub assembly. Spray the bolts with some WD-40 (taking care not to get any on the other parts of the braking system. Use an extension handle (small piece of pipe) over the handle of your 3/8 inch rachet. This should provide you with enough leverage to break free the retaining bolts. Make doble sure the socket you use fits over the bolt head very snuggly, otherwise you could cause rounding of the bolt head and make the job twice as difficult. Alway try using a SAE socket, and then try a Metric socket to see which one fits better. Many US manufactured cars are using metric bolts in these applications. It's only a 2005, so they should break free with a bit more leverage than the short rachet handle. I personally use the pipe that comes as a handle on my small hydraulic jack, but any pipe will suffice.

Sounds like your fuel pump is going bad

check starter

clean battery cables and make sure they are good and tight.

Use a trim removal tool to remove the clips that hold the door panel on the outer edges. Work from the bottom up and when you get to the middle, remove the screws that hold the arm rest in place. You may need a small flat-bladed screwdriver to get any trim around any switch plates. Be careful with the door handle as you slide the door panel off, as many people complain that they can't get it to work once they put it all back together. (don't let it get bent too severely or let any parts fall off.) When you work on this, have a magnet on a telescoping handle handy in case anything falls into the door that you need to retrieve. You can get a trim tool at any auto parts store.

Click here to see the firing order for your vehicle, as you didn't say which engine you have.

The front and rear door panels must be removed. The interior door handle will have to be removed, and the power window switch will also have be removed. This is held in by metal clips that secure it to the door panel. Do not be afraid to use a little force to get under the switch panel, and pry it from the door panel. Once you have all accessories off of the door panel, look for what may appear to be "plugs" in the door panel. These may conceal the presence of a screw. Also, check around the interior door pull for screws or "plugs". When this is done, use a medium to large screwdriver, or a trim removal tool, and start prying the door panel away from the door. Start at the bottom, and work your way around the door, until you get about 2-3 inches from the top of the panel where it meets the window. When you are at this point front and rear, simply lift up on the door panel, and it should come off easily. Once the panel is removed, you will easily find the speakers.

If you don't know the combination to the door pad, you will need to go to the Authorized Ford Dealership and have them run a a vin check and they can provide you with the combination. It will require a 5 digit alpha/numeric depending on the year. They will probably have to charge you for the service and will show you how to lock and unlock on door or all four. Hope this helps.

Sounds like you may have an Idle air control valve going bad. It is a round shiny chrome cylinder with an aluminum mounting block. It should be located somewhere close to where the air inlet tube meets the throttle body just behind the throttle body. My advice would be to carry a small hammer or wrench with you and when you start experiencing the problem lightly tap on the chrome part. If your problem corrects itself then you need a new Idle air control valve.

When trying to turn my truck on only clicking noise under hood and in dash. Sometimes even after key is pulled out clicking noise in dash continues for a couple of seconds. Battery and alternator was check at Advanced Auto parts they say both are good

When you replaced the plugs, are you sure that they were gapped properly? If not, double check that and also whether they seated properly- also put anti-seize compound on the threads in case you failed to the first time. Also check the fit of the plug wires to make sure they attach to the plug properly. When you pull them off you should hear a little popping sound. If the vehicle doesn't idle smoothly, you will need to confirm that you have not put the wrong wire on th wrong plug. Make sure you remove one plug and one wire at a time to avoid this. Check the fit of the plug wire at the distributer end as well.

one side of mine wouldnt unlock i sprayed it with like a wd40 then if still wouldnt come off i removed it from the top and let the bar hang inside the truck then took a pair of pliers and gently pulled up on the release and without the cover bein still attached it had no pressure and came off a little easier

replace emergency fuel shutoff switch located on left side behind kick panel

Question edited for clarity and correct model name. Question moved for model category. Diagram here. It should be in the Owner Manual as well. https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+ford+explorer+sport+trac+jacking+points+diagram ..

May be the fuse there are separate ones for right and left headlights and DTRL'S OR ITS THE BULB OR THE PLUG FOR IT SOMETIMES THE BULBS GO INSIDE THE PLASTIC BASE AND YOU CAN'T SEE THAT IT'S BLOWN BECAUSE THE FILAMENTS INTACT

Removal NOTE: The steps included in the SJB removal and installation procedure are critical to restoring the vehicle security and tire pressure monitoring systems to normal operation. A new SJB is delivered in manufacturing mode with 6 pre-set diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the tire pressure monitoring system. The presence of these DTCs requires the installation procedures be followed in order to clear the DTCs and enable normal SJB operations. NOTE: Prior to the removal of the SJB, it is necessary to upload the module configuration information to the diagnostic tool. This information must be downloaded to the new SJB after installation. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01 .

1. Remove the driver door scuff plate. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 .

1. Position the LH door opening weather seal aside.

1. NOTE: While pulling the trim panel rearward, pull the hood release lever rearward in order for the release lever to slide through the trim panel. Remove the pushpin and the cowl side trim panel.

1. Remove the 2 bolts and the parking brake release handle.

1. Disconnect the parking brake switch electrical connector.

1. Release the hood release cable pushpin from the parking brake control bracket.

1. Release the harness clip from the parking brake cable housing.

1. NOTE: Rotating the parking brake control counterclockwise allows enough access to clear the instrument panel reinforcement. Remove the 3 bolts and position the parking brake control assembly under the brake pedal.

Funny you ssked this wuestion cause my sisters showed the same codes and before you go spend $900 on a ABS MODULE and other parts check your wheel sensors and hubs the price difference is somewhere around $75 to $150 , i replaced her hub and this corrected the problem for her 2007 Explorer , i hope this info maybe helpful.

Check the dimmer control on the headlight switch