20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - Page 9 Questions & Answers

disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the light, but if the problem that turned it on is not repaired it will come back on again in a few days.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Mar 23, 2010

could be timeing belt broken

2005 Ford... | Answered on Mar 07, 2010

This is likely your electronic speed sensor. The part costs about $60-$70 and is a relative quick fix for a mechanic.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Mar 06, 2010

you have a short some where check behind the radio first

2005 Ford... | Answered on Mar 06, 2010

You will have to call the dealer with the v i n number,to get the code,this is something that would not be wrote on the vehicle anywhere,for security measures.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 26, 2010

The switch is under the dash above the brake pedal. It is shaped cylindrical and has a push probe sticking out of the side facing the pedal arm. The switch may be faulty or in many cases just needs to be adjusted. This is done by loosening the bottom nut then turning the top nut to the desired position then retighening the bottom nut. When it is in the correct position the brake lights will activate when the brake pedar is depressed about 1/2 inch. It's not hard to replace especially if you have small hands.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 24, 2010

Loose wire connection. Two places problem could be.. at main switch that operates all 4 windows or on inside of door window that dont work..Its not hard to take off rear door cover first.


2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 20, 2010

do you have aa fax # i can send it to? this is the ony way i am able to do this. just to confirm you are needing the factory wiring for the brake switch or something elsee?

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 13, 2010

Generally the temperature fluctuates due to a leak in the cooling system.

The cooling system operates similar to a pressure cooker, with everything sealed, for each pound of pressure on the system, the engine can increase the temperature above the boiling point by 7 degrees without boiling. This is why when a hose breaks, the temperature gauge generally goes all the way up & you will hear boiling if you open the hood & inspect the area as it occurs.

If you lose a pound (more or less) of pressure, even with antifreeze, due to the pressure the system is under, the temperature will rise.

So, when there is even a pin hole sized leak, a gasket that occasionally leaks, a radiator cap that isn't actually holding the correct pressure-all of these things will cause the pressure to drop & an immediate change in the temperature making it hotter and as it re-seals itself, the temp will decrease again. There are a lot of particles floating through your cooling system and these particles sometimes will plug a leak until pressure pushes it out later.

Generally a leak is iindicated by the temp gauge rising higher than ever before. To resolve this, a pressure test will be necessary unless you replace the radiator cap & find it is no longer fluctuating.

Also, this doesn't have to happen each time you drive. Seals leak when they want to & that's all I can say about that. Usually they will reach a point where they will want to leak all of the time but finding them has to be done while they are in fact leaking.

good luck

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 11, 2010

the ect is located in top front of engine on right of throttle body
when you face the engine compartment

hope it helps

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010

not charging nay need alt

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 25, 2010

OK. Here goes; look at the ground wire on any utility pole. Go to Home Depot, Lowe's or the like and purchase a 4 foot peice of wire like the ground wire (steel not copper). Bend one end 90 degrees at about 6 inches of length. Then bend a slow curve in the entire length of the wire. Purchase 2 rubber door stops. Grasp the top right edge of your car door and gently pull outward. Insert a door stop. Place the other door stop at the top of the door and lightly hit it with the heel of your hand. What you are doing is opening the door JUST ENOUGH to insert the wire without damaging the weather stripping. Now use the wire to either pull the door handle or pull the lock to the open position.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 18, 2010

Check fuse.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 15, 2010

Alternative removal instructions (without buying the extractors) can be found here


2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 09, 2010

The factory keypad code is the bold numbers listed on the side of the keypad module, should be located under the drivers side dash on the left, look for the numbers that are in bold type. Hope this helps, let me know

2005 Ford... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010

under the truck next to the frame, should be on driverside frame rail.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Dec 19, 2009

yes, your problem remains in the alternator, also known as the generator wich alternates current to charge your batterry while accessories are on, eg, lights cd player and so forth, maybe a diode is losing the capability to handle the load, i recommend replacing the alternator or alternatively re-condition it. but that is most definately your problem.

2005 Ford... | Answered on Dec 04, 2009

Take the battery cable off for five minutes and try it.
If that dont work get it retested.
Before you spend money on the injector(s)

2005 Ford... | Answered on Nov 27, 2009

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