20 Most Recent 1990 Ford Taurus - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Don't need the number, just tell them at the auto parts store
the year, the make, the model, what liter engine, and if you have ac or not. they will look it up on their computor to get the right belt.

Check in your Power Distribution box (underhood) the position 9, 40AMP (MaxiFuse); other details can find in the Ford-Taurus-Owners-Manual

Hope help (remember comment and rated this).

sounds like a carb problem could be a sticking float in the carb

The wiper blade arm may have stripped the splines that keep it in position on the wiper motor shaft.Sometimes you need a special
arm puller to remove the blade arm, but if it's stripped,it will pull off pretty easy. If yopu take it off,look inside to see if the splines are stripped inside, where the motor shaft holds the arm.It will look all
rounded off, and not sharp ridges.Make sure you start taking it off,
with the arms in their normal down position,and the car off.
Good luck.

with an AC-bypass bracket...If you're pulling the AC, you will need the factory bracket that was used on non AC-equipped models which replaces the compressor pulley.
Most junkyards will pull one for you for less than $20, or you can order it through Autozone for about 3X that cost ($40-65 depending on where you live).

1:
A) Replace the brake reservoir's gasket (small rubber disk under the cap, likely stretched into a cone shape) at the local Autozone...it's a generic item and only costs a few dollars, but it can allow pressure to leak when you apply the brakes.

B) Bleed the brakes one at a time, starting with the front wheels.
There's a small bleeder valve on the rear of the caliper, looks a bit like a grease fitting without the tiny ball in the center, just a small nipple with a wrench base (3/8 or 10mm, i forget).
You will need help with the bleeding process, preferably someone who has done it before.
In a nutshell, your helper will press the pedal to the floor 2 times, then hold the pedal down, at which time you will crack the bleeder valve open just a hair for a second or two to let the air out, then close the valve, and your helper will let the pedal up when the valve is closed.
Repeat the process until only fluid leaks without air.
*Buy a bottle of brake fluid before you start cuz you will lose some.
** Messing with your own brakes can have FATAL Results! Always consult an experienced mechanic before attempting brake repair.

first... while you have 40psi engine off do you have good flow? should get more than 1/s liter in 30 seconds

additionally, are the injectors pulsing?

finally, what is the cranking speed and is it smooth?

keep us updated

It is quite likely to be a faulty diode within your alternator. This can easily be checked by disconnecting your alternator, then leaving the car stood overnight with a freshley charged battery.
If the battery holds its charge, replace the alternator.

It could be the turn signal switch. I think that car uses the same bulb for the rear turn signals as they do for the brake lights. If that's the case the power for the brake lights is routed through the turn signal switch. The nice thing about that car is the switch is easy to change. Take the shroud loose around the steering column and the switch is held on with two screws.

make sure the mounting screws are not loose to the tps

It would be either under the hood on passenger side It would be a metal canister looking deal that has clips that hold it together. You should remove fuel cap to release any pressure. Also it is a good idea to look on your fuel rail and there should be a little valve that releases fuel press. You should use a rag on top of it so it doesn't spray.

Some of them, I don't believe you model does, but some have the filter in the fuel line under the car by frame. Just follow the fuel line and you will run into it. That type would have nuts on the lines to hold the filter in place and you would use a wrench to loosen it

You can go to autozone.com and register for free for a free repair manual for any vehicle.

the starter solenoid is bad. very common in the older ford vehicles. had the same problem with my 85 Crown Vic and it was the solenoid. its like a 10 dollar fix. if it sticks after you replace it then theres something wrong with your alternator backfeeding the solenoid, which is usually because it is wired wrong.

You need to remove the starter and install a new set of brushes,do it soon because it will let you down when the final positive brush ceases to touch the armurature.

it is probably the regulator which is bolted on to the alternator

If it just dies, sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve. If it surges and runs rough, sounds like a vacuume leak, especially if it is the DOHC 3.0L engine, they have several vac hoses that go bad.

ask a site thats not run by ****

Just inside the rear passenger wheel well. This is a fairly easy job. Be careful not to get gas all over the place, and make sure you put the new filter on in the correct direction.

Here you go.

power steering is power assist, if it has a power steering pump it is power assist