20 Most Recent 1990 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 5 Questions & Answers

On your big cables, either copper post is fine, one comes from the battery, one goes to the starter. Once the solenoid is turned on it will send power to either side. The wire with the elbow boot slides onto the silver post marked S. This is the power wire from the computer. Should be red/lt blue. On the other side is your coil wire. That will let the coil have power during cranking. It is marked (-). It should be a wire with a small ring at the end. should be red/lt green. Any other wires with the large ring will hook to the same side as the cable from the battery as they are hot all the time. These wires get hacked up over time, but this should put you in the ballpark.

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"Pulls to one side" sounds a lot like a frozen front brake caliper. While you could get away with replacing only the caliper on the side of the truck that it pulls to, for a time -- for example, if the truck pulls to the left, the caliper on the left will be the frozen one -- you are better off replacing both calipers because the other one will likely eventually go out, too.

Chech starter solenoid, some ford models have a separate starter relay solenoid that fails. jump the two post to see iff the starter engages. make sure it is in nuetral.

On manual tranny chech clutch switch

Sounds like the altenator is failing, [ headlight just may be blown or corroded scocket ].

its on the intake hose connected to the air box. has 4 little tamper resistant torx screws that hold it in, you can get at any parts store or tool place, good luck

have u changed fuel filter

1. do you mean the headlight assembley?
   

2. 
   

3. Open the hood of the truck and locate the two screws on the top of the trim bezel. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver then move to the front of the bezel and locate the four screws in the face of it. Remove them with your Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.
   

4. 2

   Pull the trim bezel off the front of the truck and set it aside. There are three clips along the bottom edge of the bezel; they may require you to pull harder than you think you should but they will let go if you pull hard enough.
   

5. 3

   Locate the four screws at the corners of the headlight assembly. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver then pull the headlight assembly toward you until you can reach the headlight bulb connection on the rear off the assembly.
   

6. 4

   Release the locking tab on the headlight bulb and pull the wiring harness connector off the bulb. Set the harness aside and remove the headlight assembly off the truck.
   

Check the ball joints, tie rods, etc. for any give or variance. Maybe warped brake rotors? Good luck.

Ford water pumps have a "weep hole" on the bottom of the water pump. When the bearings go bad the coolant will weep from there. Also you may just need to get in there with a flashlight, probably from underneath the truck and see exactly where the steam is coming from. Check all the heater hose attachments and the radiator hoses. If you are lucky it may just be a worn out hose.

IF it's surface rust you should sand down to bare metal, prime then paint. If it's holes and you don't want to weld in new sheet metal patches then go with bondo

i would suggest to reconnect the wires the way the were before one the old one. if you reverse them the truck may not start because teh fuse box will only be powered when your cranking the engine . as soon as you let go of the key you loose power to the fuse box.

Locate the filter under the drivers door area. You will need the Ford quick disconnect removal tool(small round spring release button type tool) These hose removal tools are available at a parts store, You can get the "set" for around $20.00. A must have for the do it your selfer. When you have the tool insert the nose of the tool into the coupler on the end of the tube. (there may be a plastic retainer clip to remove first on the tank side of the filter, and a metal clip on the engine side.) When the tool is in place press toward the hose which you are removing and the coupler should dis-engage from the line. You may have to pull hard, and twist it a bit. The tool releases the push to connect mechanism inside to allow the hose to be removed.

no,, you have to get the timing set or it will do nothing , align the timing marks,, heres a easy trick, but use care when doing it ,, locate the number one plug on the cap,, (plug wire) remove that plug, and turn the motor over until your sure that its on the compression stroke,, ( I put my finger in the hole, But thats not recommended ) look to see where the rotor is pointing, if its at the number one plug,, your ok if not you need to go another 180 degrees , Once you find that point,, look at your timing marks on the crank and cam,, they should be together if not, your motor was turned over while the belt was misaligned,,

Hi,

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.0L and 2.3L Engines Fig. 1: Exploded view of the timing belt cover on the 2.0L and 2.3L engine

Fig. 2: Exploded view of the timing belt assembly on the 2.0L and 2.3L engine



Fig. 3: Releasing the timing belt tensioner using a special tool



1. Rotate the engine so that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Check that the timing marks are aligned on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. An access plug is provided in the cam belt cover so that the camshaft timing can be checked without removal of the cover or any other parts. Set the crankshaft to TDC by aligning the timing mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the belt cover. Look through the access hole in the belt cover to make sure that the timing mark on the cam drive sprocket is lined up with the pointer on the inner belt cover. To remove the timing belt, first rotate the engine and align the timing marks to TDC




Remove the camshaft gear alignment inspection plug . . .


NOTE: Always turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Backward rotation may cause the timing belt to jump time, due to the arrangement of the belt tensioner.

Drain cooling system. Remove the upper radiator hose as necessary. Remove the fan blade and water pump pulley bolts. . . . and ensure that the marks are aligned. If not, rotate the engine one complete turn




Loosen the engine cooling fan attaching bolts . . .




CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

Loosen the alternator retaining bolts and remove the drive belt from the pulleys. Remove the water pump pulley. . . . then remove the fan from the vehicle




Loosen the accessory drive belt tensioner bolts . . .




. . . then remove the belt (or belts if equipped with air conditioning)




Once the belts are out of the way, remove the water pump pulley . . .



4.Loosen and position the power steering pump mounting bracket and position it aside.

5. Remove the four timing belt outer cover retaining bolts and remove the cover. Remove the crankshaft pulley and belt guide. . . . as well as the tensioner pulley which may be in the way of the front cover



Remove the upper belt cover retaining screw - 1989 shown, earlier models use two screws




Remove the lower belt cover retaining screw - 1989 shown, earlier models use two screws




6. Loosen the belt tensioner pulley assembly, then position a camshaft belt adjuster tool (T74P-6254-A or equivalent) on the tension spring rollpin and retract the belt tensioner away from the timing belt. Tighten the adjustment bolt to lock the tensioner in the retracted position. Loosen and remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolts . . .




. . . then remove the pulley from the crankshaft




Disengage the plastic lock tabs on the outer timing belt cover . . .




. . . and remove the cover from the engine




Mark the direction of rotation on the old belt, in case you need to reinstall it





7. Remove the timing belt. Loosen the tensioner pulley adjusting bolt . . .



. . . then loosen the pivot bolt. Rotate the tensioner to relieve the pressure . . .





. . . and tighten the adjuster bolt then remove the belt from the cam and crankshaft pulleys

1. To install:
   
2. Install the new belt over the crankshaft sprocket and then counterclockwise over the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets, making sure the lugs on the belt properly engage the sprocket teeth on the pulleys. Be careful not to rotate the pulleys when installing the belt.
3. Release the timing belt tensioner pulley, allowing the tensioner to take up the belt slack. If the spring does not have enough tension to move the roller against the belt (belt hangs loose), it might be necessary to manually push the roller against the belt and tighten the bolt. NOTE: The spring cannot be used to set belt tension; a wrench must be used on the tensioner assembly.
   
   
4. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns by hand (in the normal direction of rotation) to remove the slack from the belt, then tighten the tensioner adjustment and pivot bolts to specifications. Refer to the necessary illustrations. Make sure the belt is seated properly on the pulleys and that the timing marks are still in alignment when No. 1 cylinder is again at TDC/compression.
5. Install the crankshaft pulley and belt guide.
6. Install the timing belt cover.
7. Install the water pump pulley and fan blades. Install upper radiator hose if necessary. Refill the cooling system.
8. Position the alternator and drive belts, then adjust and tighten it to specifications.
9. Start the engine and check the ignition timing. Adjust the timing, if necessary.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

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If your local Ford dealer hasn't purged the manual the should make a copy of the schematic for you