You might have a bad solenoid. I would try a new one. Or else what about your battery? Are you certain it is at full charge? Battery cables good and connected tight everywhere? If battery and cables are good, then it's probably the solenoid or the starter giving you problems.The horn is not related at all. Usually a horn problem is with the switch in the steering wheel, but if you have an air bag, you'd better let someone fix or check it who has experience working around them and how to disable and handle them. I'm sure there are videos on youtube, that detail all these procedures- you can find almost anything on the internet, almost everything, might even be something for your Tempo. The horn itself is always at the front of the car, maybe hidden behind the bumper, or on a brace around the radiator, behind the grill, just look in those places, but 9 times out of 10, the horn itself is good and it's the wheel switch or wiring or horn relay that is the problem.
If the car was equipped with the electric remote trunk release the switch would be located in the glovebox, under steering wheel or inside the drivers side door trim. Check your owners manual for possible location. It may not have been an option for your car. If it wasn't an option you may be able to remove rear seat to access trunk to open trunk lid
You have to remove the tire, brake caliper, caliper mount, and rotor. Then remove two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. Leave one bolt in without the nut. Now you need a large socket that fits the nut on the axle. Remove nut then pull hub assembly off axle spline shaft. Then grab the shaft securely and give it a good hard yank. This calaspses the compression ring on the axle shaft and pulls the shaft free. Check seal and replace if necessary. Install in reverse order. Good luck I hope this solves your problem. Please post a solved comment on fixya, so I receive credit for the solve. This will increase my ranking on fixya.com That is how I get paid. By knowing I am helping someone!!!!
Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and go to the Dealer. The Dealer has a book called an OSI book. Obsolete, Superceded, and Interchange are the way it is organized.
For used parts try Carparts.com. For a better understanding of Ford parts-they carry 2 types of part numbers. There is a Service number and an Engineering number.
The Service number is the over-the counter part number. The part numbers have a middle BASE number and the numbers and letters before the BASE number are Prefixes. The Prefix tells the Year and Model of vehicle. If a part is a D8AZ it is for a 1978 full size Ford, a D9 is for a 1979 full size. A D8MY is for a full size Mercury, D8LY is for a Lincoln.
These first numbers can be important, but if they interchange there are 2 things to know. A Ford part is usually cheaper than a Lincoln part and you can't go by the Prefix. That is why the BASE number is referenced. This is not to say the Suffix is not important, as the suffix can notate Engineering changes when looking at an Engineering number.
For instance, The first run part has an "A" Engineering suffix. Improvements could end with "B" or "AA". Perhaps the "A" suffix fits only the Mercury, but a modified "B" or "AA" could fit both Mercury and Ford sister cars.
This is why you need to know what each part of the Engineering number means.or have the Service number. Ford usually stamps or labels, or moulds only the engineering number on components.
replace the idler arm and pivot mount as a unit and make sure that the nut is pinned properly. As it is only an idler arm there should be no need to get a wheel alignment done
you have to remove air duct from throtlle body and remove resonance chamber to remove starter upper mountings bolts then you need safely raise support vechicle remove starter lower bolts.
After the car has been driven until warm,say 10 minutes,leave it running and feel the hoses going thru the firewall to the heater,there are 2 ,if they are both cold it needs a thermostat.If one is hot and one is alot colder , it's the heater core.If they are both hot it's a door on the inside.Thermostat on the 2.3 (assuming) is at the engine end of the top radiator hose,front of the head. Easy one
Just started the car and it cut straight out. It revved up like a normal start but instead of revs dropping to normal it cut out. I decided to try and drive it anyway to top up with petrol as light was on (But not near empty) and when I came to a stop it cut out. On starting it up this time the car revved up to the redline by itself and I had to quickly remove the key. It did this 3 more times then on the fourth start it decided to stay on but rev itself and kept reving between 1 and 2000 revs as seen in the video here I just took: YouTube - Alfa 156 constant revingWhen I turn the car off it doesn't just cut out as usual either...now it sort of takes an extra few seconds as seen in this second video I just took: YouTube - Delay in turning off (The key is turned at 7 seconds)I know the is a hole in my exhaust somewhere because there is alot of hot air coming from the drivers door area and its been like this for a few months now but surely a hole in an exhaust can't cause all this. Any ideas?
I recently had a similar issue, it turned-out to be the voltage regulator (inside the alternator) I purchased an alternator, problem solved. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/keith_f374b1cfd1696a17
I had to replace a switch in the steering column on mine. My mechanic said this is common with this car. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/keith_f374b1cfd1696a17
