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D9ae6015ed21 id # on my ford eng what does it all mean?
The first four digits denote the year, model of vehicle, and type of part.
D9 is 1979 model year, AE is full size model and engine.
6015 is Ford's part number for just about every engine they have produced since the 1950s.
ED21 denotes the actual part and how many times it has been changed.
This could be a 5th version 351Winsdor engine from a full size car.
The parts dept of any Ford dealer should be able to tell you for sure.
on Aug 05, 2014
Car hiccups and stalls
Although your temperature gauge may show that it works, some models have a second temperature sensor for the engine management system.
That second sensor provides info which sets curb idle and timing advance. The "Cold start" feature is a part of this. The hic-cup is something of a bucking symptom as the engine controls toggle between hot and cold run settings repeatedly as water temperature is not stable.
In the past, I found several 1984 engines having defective thermostats which are tied into "Step-up" solenoids for the curb idle. What happens is idle speed is suppose to drop when the engine is hot.
When someone adjusts the curb idle while the engine is on the "cold setting", the setting(rpm) will be too low once the engine has heated up and the part drops to a hot setting.
So to clearly define your problem, you have 2 stemming from the same defects. The "in motion" problem is caused by timing changes based on temperature and the "idle" problem is caused by improper adjustment of the curb idle solenoid because of unstable operating temperature.
What you want to do is change your thermostat. This will give you a stable temperature. Then let the engine heat up and you should notice a "click" and the engine should idle down. It may stall. Then turn the idle rpm up until the engine will not stall.
The hic-cups should disappear once the operating temp is reached. If you still have problems then look for the water temperature sensors before replacing expensive parts.
on May 24, 2013
Car cranks when I connect the battery with key in off postion.
Maybe the solenoid is defective?.....or.....
There are 2 types of fender mounted solenoids and they look identical.
One......you apply power to one of the small terminals to actuate it.....the other small terminal is a power while cranking for the ignition on older models.(do you have these connections correct)?
The other model....and it looks the same......YOU GROUND THE SAME SMALL TERMINAL to actuate it.
on Dec 21, 2012
How do i bleed the brakes on my 1984 ford mustang never done it before
same as any nother car. take off mastercylinder cap. get a helper set in the drivers seat. apply pressure to the brake peddle. with a box or tube wrench break the fluid *** on the top of the calliper/back of drum loose. foot pressure on peddle should push it to the floor -hold it on the floor! tighten the *** on the caliper/drum tight-ish. not over tight. then let peddle up off floor. pump till you get resistance/tighteness. hold pressure on peddle, loosen *** again and peddle will go to floor again tighten ***, lift up peddle pump for pressure. repeat untill all air is out of line/ or fluid runs out clear. never let the master cylinder get low on fluid. have plenty on hand. repeat for all 4 tires.
on Aug 18, 2012
Engine randomly cut out while driving or idiling,,, sometimes starts right back up other times takes a couple minutes... Cause?????
Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John
on Apr 23, 2012
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