20 Most Recent 1985 Ford F 250 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

jack up and support the front end on stands remove the wheel then remove the outer hub screws and then pull the hub out next you should see a large nut with square notches around the out side of the nut you will need the proper "spanner wrench"to remove this,once you remove the spanner nut there will be a large washer behind that with a small tab holes,that shim will pull out ,next remove the inner spanner nut(the same as the first one).This inner nut will have a small tab on it and fits into the shim you just removed make sure when you reinstall this nut and shim ring the tab and a hole line back up.Sorry I forgot to mention you need to remove the brake caliper also,just remove the two pressure rods(one on top and one on the bottom)by taking a hammer and a punch and gently tapping them outwards once they are out the caliper is able to be removed and swung up out of the way.Once the hub and inner nuts and shim are remove you will see the outer bearings and they come right out,for the rear bearings in the back of the hub you can pull out the old seal and remove the rear bearings.hope this helps its not as bad as it may seems once you've done one set they become easier for the next time

if its so equipped, it will be on the passenger floorboard, near where the floor pan meets the firewall, under the carpet. Its an intertia switch with a white odd looking button on top. If it can be pushed in, it was in need of a reset. If not, then no.

better still rip it out and put a manual gearbox in

start by securing the truck. then jack up the rear end and take the tire off. then take the 8 bolts out of the floating hub assembly that sticks out of the wheel. pull out the axle shaft. then using either a 32mm socket or a hammer and chisel remove the large retaining nut. then pull the next spacer out with a pair of plyers, then use the 32mm socket or hammer and chisel to remove the next bolt. after that pull the drum and hub assembly off and make sure to catch the outer wheel bearing that will fall out when you pull the drum off. look at how the brakes and springs are setup and if you can take a picture. then after replacing the shoes and hardware replace the drum assembly. make sure the wheel bearing you caught goes in with smaller end first. put the last 32mm nut you took off back then the small spacer and make sure one of the holes on the spacer line up with the nub that sticks out of the nut you just put on then replace the very first nut you took off. slide the axle shaft back in wiggling it side to side. replace the 8 bolts. and pit on the tire and repeat on the next side. and dont worry about the fluid that comes out when you remove the axle shaft because its not enough to make a difference. yes its a pain in the *** but it beats the dealer price of 500 to replace.

it should be behind your passenger side kick panel,it just has a red button you need to check if its up or down.

No adj.

Did you replace the slave or master cylinder or both? WHats the reason for needing to bleed it? If it seemed like it was out of adjustment and you bled it, it may indicate that either of these parts are allowing fluid past when under pressure. If you replaced one and not the other, that could be where your problem lies. If you replaced both, then try loosening the bleeder and leave it undone overnight. This should allow the air out.

Check the wiring for loose or bad bad wiring that could cause some loses in your system. There may also be a device that has high consumption. See if you can see changes with all devices turned off. If you encounter the same issue regardless if the engine is on or off, have the battery tested.

I would replace fluid and filter. At least the fluid. Old fluid has bad temperature range protection and the inter cooler doesn't help cool the lines much.

Use the distributor and electronic controls from the '85 engine on the '82 engine, unless these engines are not the same size?? Let Me know

Hi
The idle speed control solenoid controls the idle of the engine when the air conditioning is engaged. Since the ac pump draws down the engine idle the solenoid increase the idle when the ac is on.
it is located at the throttle body,aluminum body,with 2 8mm(5/16) hex screws and a 2 wire plug connector.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

fuel delivery has nothing to do with timing. What I would do is check fuel pressure. I do not suspect this is a problem but its always best to know it correct before proceding. Try spraying some brake cleaner in the carb as its struggling to idle. If it gets better then you have a jet that may be partially clogged. Also if you have any vacuum leaks especially at the base of the carb this condition will occur. Spray brake cleaner all around carefully on any vacuum source. The Idle will increase if you find one. Be sure to spray the intake manifold also.. If you cant find any problems check timing.. If you dont have a timing light mark the position of the distributor and then turn it slightly. If the RPM increased thats advancing the timing. If the idle is still an issue but it back. If better and driveable drive it. If the motor sounds like its pinging then most likely the timing was correct before and you still have a fuel issue.

Removal & Installation


Blade-type connector ignition switch on steering column, 1980 and later models

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
   
2. Remove steering column shroud and lower the steering column.
   
3. Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.
   
4. Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.
   
5. Lift the switch vertically upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove switch.
   
6. When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in LOCK position for correct adjustment.
   

To hold the mechanical parts of the column in LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.

1. Engage the actuator rod in the switch.
   
2. Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.
   
3. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash, and then tighten the retaining nuts.
   
4. Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL.
   

Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position.

1. Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.
   

that 2 barrell needs some more work done to it and what was wrong with the 4 barrell the 2 main jets in a 4 barrell are smaller than a 2 barrell as long as you dont engage the 4 barrells your using less gas anyways.

do you have catalytic converters?

theres a metal screen filter at the front of the engine block,three metal fuel lines come out of this unit disconnect the lines make sure to use line wrenches and spray the gunk out with carb cleaner,this is the most overlooked peice ever on a ford its kind of a pre filter

hi you have a level marked on the dipstick

The guage is pretty reliable.

The leak isnt from your exhaust manifold, its coming from the valve cover gasket above it, and yes a new gasket will fix it if installed properly. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

First thing to check is the fuel filter(s)

Items to check are

alarm/starter disable relay

neutral safety switch (automatic trans)
try to start on N.

clutch on safety switch (stick)

main fuse
glow plug fuse
glow plug relay
glow plugs