1982 Ford Ltd - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The fuel pump is mechanical and is mounted on the engine near the bottom front. The filter is in the fuel line where it attaches to the Carb.

From 1981 on, ford and the rest of the auto industry was mandated by the government to use a 17 digit number visible through the windshield, this number contains the vehicle and engine identification codes.

No rod. The lever rest on a cup that is bolted to the timing chain.

It can have a bad headlight switch, but most often it is a bad high beam switch on the floor.

Turn on the headlights and press the high-beam switch off and on a few times, if the headlights flash, flicker, or start working again then replace the high-beam/dimmer switch.

could be fuel pump diaphram rotted or rubber fuel line that connects steel line to or from fuel pump

dear friend-the voltage that you are measuring is battery voltage and as soon as you try to start the vehicle it will drop to 9 volt which is not enought to start.if you remove the pos,battery clamp and put a test light between the pole and the terminal and and the light lites up then there is a draw running the battery flat.

No the diagrams are copy writed he could go to the libary and get a haynes manual for free. and read it to help.

POINT TYPE IGNITION SYSTEMS

1. Locate the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the front of the engine.
2. If they appear dirty, clean the timing marks with a wire brush. Once clean, apply white paint to the marks to make them more visible.
3. Attach a dwell meter/tachometer to the engine.
4. Attach a timing light according to the tool manufacturer's instructions.
5. Unfasten the distributor vacuum line at the distributor and plug the vacuum line. A small bolt, center punch, golf-tee, or similar object is satisfactory for a plug.
6. Check to make sure that all of the wires, whether disconnected or attached to the timing light or tachometer, clear the fan and belts.
7. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
8. Adjust the idle to the correct setting, if needed.
9. Aim the timing light at the timing marks and depress the trigger on the light. If the marks on the pulley and the engine are aligned when the light flashes, the timing is correct. Turn OFF the engine, then remove the tachometer and the timing light. If the marks are not in alignment, proceed with the following steps.
10. Loosen the distributor lockbolt (a special distributor wrench is available) just enough so that the distributor can be turned with effort.
11. With the timing light aimed at the pulley and the marks on the engine, turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ****** the spark, and in the opposite direction of rotor rotation to the advance spark. Align the marks on the pulley and the engine using the flashes of the timing light.
12. When the marks are aligned, tighten the distributor lockbolt and recheck the timing to make sure that the distributor did not move when you tightened the lockbolt.
13. After timing has been set, tighten the distributor hold-down bolt to 17–25 ft. lbs. (23–34 Nm).

While pointing the timing light at the timing marks, the other hand can rotate the distributor body to reach the correct alignment

Disconnect vac advance and plug vac for checking timing.

#1 should be all the way up.This is called TDC(Top Dead Center)

No, it would be the charging system. As the engine RPM increases, so does the output of the alternator. If the battery is weak, or maybe the alternator is overcharging. This is where I would start to look. But the fan motor is electric, has nothing to do with vacuum.

The blower can be located under the passenger side dash or under the hood on the passenger side firewall. Remove the screws and electrical connector to the blower motor and it will come out.

check for an automatic choke setting. It should hang up on the throttle linkage until the unit gets hot and unwinds the choke butterfly off.

By now the blower motor should have been replaced a few times so hopefully it will be less hard. Disconnect the orange power wire at the rear of the right hood hinge and the black ground from the upper cowl. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. There should be an access panel in the fender. Remove it and you should see your blower motor. Remove the 4 motor mounting screws and disconnect the cooler tube from the motor. slide the motor and wheel assemby out the acess hole. Hope this helps.

You should be able to find a used repair book or shop manual on Ebay.Auto parts stores sell new repair books.

no it is internal clutches inside the transmission

More info please. I've never heard of a 97 ford maverick. only 70-77

if the emissions tag is missing the autopatrs store may go back that far and print one out for you..if not try antique car websites..good luck..

Check this diagrams for 1972 LTD with the 429ci motor (click images for zoom)...



Fig. 2: Vacuum schematic-1968-72 V8 engine with manual carburetor




Fig. 3: Vacuum schematic-1968-75 with Feedback Carburetor (FBC)

Hope this helps.

First check your coolant level.

Next make sure your fan is operating properly.

Lastly, if all of those criteria have been met check your water pump, it may need replaced.

Hope this helps.