20 Most Recent 1992 Ford F350 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

renew the shut off switch on the injector pump ,i think the solonoid isnt lifting the shut off valve properly or it is sucking in air somewhere

there is the inside fuse box in the dash, and there is another set under the hood. the cover of the dash panel is marked, but the one under the hood isn't always marked. you might get a manual on ebay/craigslist

remove battery cables from battery then with a wrench remove starter,then remove wires

The booster is working properly if the pedal goes down a little when starting the truck. Seems more like it's a master cylinder problem if it won't pump up.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Disconnect the warning indicator at the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Remove the fluid to minimize the amount that would otherwise inevitably be spilled
Fig. 3: Unscrew the line fittings at the master cylinder
Fig. 4: Hold a rag under the fittings to keep fluid from dripping all over things
Fig. 5: Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster
Fig. 6: Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle and set it in a clean location

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all the vacuum in the system.
3. Detach and cap the brake lines from the master cylinder.
4. If equipped, detach the brake warning indicator connector. NOTE: A turkey baster (tapered tube with a squeeze ball on top) works well for removing fluid from the reservoir (see photo).
   
5. Siphon off the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage when lines are disconnected.
6. If applicable, disconnect and cap the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) supply hose at the master cylinder reservoir and secure in a position to prevent loss of fluid.
7. Unfasten the 2 nuts and lockwashers that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster.
8. Remove the master cylinder from the booster by sliding it forward and upward from the vehicle. To install:
   
9. Install a new seal in the groove in the master cylinder mounting face.
10. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster pushrod and onto the 2 studs on the booster assembly.
11. Install the retaining nuts, then tighten to 18–25 ft. lbs. (24–34 Nm).
12. Uncap and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Tighten the front fitting to 16–21 ft. lbs. (21–29 Nm), and the rear fitting to 10–15 ft. lbs. (15–20 Nm).
13. Uncap and connect the HCU hose to the master cylinder reservoir fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
14. If equipped, connect the brake warning indicator.
15. Fill the master cylinder with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Bleed the entire brake system, as outlined in this section.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Operate the brake several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.

Use a test light and check the large red or positive wire that goes to alternator and is secured by a nut on a post, that it has current going to it.

think the torque converter has died a death ,but you will have to remove the gearbox to have a look

Maybe the fuel filter or fuel line, whenever there is a leak on top of engine, thats where it drains to, so look at the top of the engine for the leak.

The problem is not itermittent. it does not work, I was testing the switches on the stering wheel.

is it a factory engine? gas or diesel?

V8 - 7.3L vin M 445ci - DIESEL OHV

V8 - 7.5L vin G 460ci - GAS OHV

here are the two engine types i could find for a factory 1992 super cab. hope this is helpful

The white smoke usually means there is water in the fuel. The fuel filters are made to swell and you may have a separater that needs draining.

You will probably go through several filters if you do not have a separater. You may be able to add an additive to get the water to dry out.

When you change the fuel filter be sure to prime it with fresh fuel.

Check fuses

must identified what part of it is leaking has it been changed and wrong or wrongly installed gasket promble

have the diesel pump recalibrated for its out of syncronization

Replace the filter. If it is a diesel, you will probably need a new housing or could be an o-ring, I'm not much of a diesel person. Try a Junk yard or parts store, then try dealer.

should be real easy depending on location, has a hose on both ends unscrew hose clamps pull hoses off, remember the direction it was in you don't want to put it in backwards. You may need to cut and splice the wires going to unit.

Here's the diagram you asked for...



Good luck!

there are 3 bolts holding your starter on. i suggest a socket, long extension and a ratchet for the top hard to reach bolt. wrench works fine on the other 2 bolts

replace the brake booster. the vacuum assist isnt working thats why its hard to push the brake pedal, check the booster and see if its leaking air.