20 Most Recent 1992 Ford F350 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

have it scanned for the code most auto parts stores do it for free you might have knocked a wire off from something

When you remove the pump, be careful with the fuel lines! There are two places that you need to be aware of when it comes to timing the pump. There is a dowel pin in front, that must be lined up with the hole, and there is one mark on the flat spot directly above the pump. That mark lines up with scribe mark on the engine where the pump bolts up to. Remove the filter housing, and clean the area if you can't see it.

chek your brake pump maybe need service

Check for spark and gas. Try to add gas to the intake. If it starts, there is a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't, then there may be no spark which you can test using a spark tester.If there is no spark, the crank sensor circuit may be at fault.

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Remove what's needed to gain access to the glow plugs.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the intake manifold glow plug from the cylinder head.
4. Using a deep socket or combination wrench, remove the glow plug from the cylinder head.
5. Screw the glow plug reamer into the glow plug opening all the way in then out.
6. Install the new glow plug.
7. Reconnect the connector to the glow plug terminal.
8. Replace the valve cover with a new gasket (if required).
9. Reinstall anything removed for glow plug access.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Not sure what you mean with this: "solenoid alternator "
If you installed a rebuilt unit, it may still have one leaking diode of the six which can cause this. Having a single bad diode won't stop the alternator from being able to recharge the battery but if the reverse resistance isn't near infinite, you will have the problem you describe.
Pulling and replugging one fuse after another and watching for a change in the current drawn should help you isolate the circuit still drawing current. If this didn't cause any change, I would have the alternator tested again.

YOUR PROBLEM IS MOST LIKELY,DUE TO BAD FUEL AND SITTING FOR A LONG TIME, YOUR FUEL PUMPS. I AM ASSUMING THAT THE TRUCK IS REGULAR GASOLINE FUEL AND NOT DIESEL. ENGINE. MOST FUEL PUMPS IN THE TANK WILL FAIL IF FUEL IS ALREADY GUMMED OUT, FUEL WILL SMELL LIKE "TURPENTINE" FLUID. CHECK FUEL PUMPS IF THEY COME ON FIRST BY OPENING THE FUEL CAPS AND HAVING ANOTHER PERSON TURN THE IGNITION KEY TO THE "ON" POSITION, AT THE SAME TIME PUT YOUR EAR CLOSE TO THE FUEL FILLER TUBE OF THE TANK THAT THE FUEL TANK SWITCH IS ON. YOU SHOULD HEAR A LOW GROWLING SOUND, IF NO SOUND COMING FROM THERE PUMP IS NOT WORKING. SOMETIMES (VERY RARE) YOU CAN JAR THE PUMP TO WORK BY BANGING ON THE BOTTOM OF FUEL TANK WITH A RUBBER MALLET, DO THIS AS SOON AS THE IGNITION KEY IS TURNED TO THE "ON" POSITION.

if the fuses and relays are good then have you check the dash switch,you may have to check the wiring(powers)from the pump back through the system until you find were you have lost power.