20 Most Recent 1985 Ford F350 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

injector pump timming

Repair Shop with a subscription to ALLDATA,
Mitchell,Motor,etc

They could print what you need

the fuel pump will more than likely be in the tank the gauge my not work cause some wires somewhere are not making connection probally around the pump it could even be on top of the pump

If it lost power while shifting, and didnt engage, or lost power while accelerating, it is probably your pressure plate.

Sounds like you have a wiring problem you might have a rat nest that chewed up your wiring or squirrels are famous for this start looking under dash and heater box and computer lower glove box module panel drivers feet rest left foot panel won't be surprised if this is the case it would not be the first i seen of this usually when they sit that long these types of rodents like to move in.Tip look close for rodent droppings in around engine floor dash area etc.

sorry i will not give this sort of information out anymore ,unless i see the passport ,car registration and a address the same as the registration document.

The Diesel engine doesn't have an ignition system. Also the dash light shouldn't cause it not to start? You said you changed the fuel filter right? After you started cranking it again did the lift pump fill the new filter up. I have had these before where the lift pumps go bad causing low lift pump pressure which causes the water in fuel light to be on. Did it die going down the road or did you shut it off and can't get it restarted.

there usually is a dual take valve switch under truck which could be the problem

I would check fule pump relay... Doe u hear the fuel pump runnning briefly when u turn the key on at first?

relays are a common thing to replace.. That woudl be first thing i would check. next step if thats not it is to see if the fule cut off switch has been triggered by hititng hard bumb or accident.. that usually cutts pup off all together so it wont even try to start

Make sure you have a secure vacuum line from intake manifold to booster. Hard brake pedal is a lack of vacuum to booster or a leaky diaphragm in booster.

this may help Tim;

http://electricwiringdiagram.com/circuitdiagram/car-wiring-diagrams/page/4

The problem is probably either a bad fuel pump or a bad coil/distributor. To test this, try to turn over the engine for 10 seconds then go back to the tail pipe and smell around it. If you smell gas it is probably a coil/distributor problem. If you do not smell gas it is most likely your fuel pump.

first thing to check is voltage to glow plugs on the start cycle, it should be 12 volts or better, if good the do a resistance test on the glow plugs any burnt plugs will not give you a reading, they should all read about the same

No they each have a seperate fuelpump that flows through the lines to engine but not the other tank.

The old 7.3 diesel motors are great when they run, their biggest fault is in the glow plug control relay (passenger side fender well), wiring for the glow plugs (harness) and the glow plugs themselves. If you are sure of wiring harness and the plugs, the relay would be the place to start. Hope this helps, and if you have any more questions please let me know.
Thanks,
Joey

My online resource didn't mention a 'long bolt' but if it does hit the radiator, the next step is to drain the radiator and remove it before taking out the alternator (or lift the engine out to clear the radiator but that's more difficult): --- REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear terminal alternator
Fig. 2: Side terminal alternator

1. Open the hood and disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the adjusting arm bolt.
3. Remove the alternator through-bolt. Remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley and lower the alternator. NOTE: Some engines are equipped with a ribbed, K-section belt and automatic tensioner. A special tool must be made to remove the tension from the tensioner arm. Loosen the idler pulley pivot and adjuster bolts before using the tool. See the accompanying illustration for tool details.
   
4. Label all of the leads to the alternator so that you can install them correctly and disconnect the leads from the alternator.
5. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
6. To install, reverse the above procedure. Torque the pivot bolt to 58 ft. lbs.; the adjusting bolt to 25 ft. lbs.; the wire terminal nuts to 60-90 inch lbs. --------------------

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container (if the coolant is to be reused). CAUTION
   When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
   
2. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the hose that requires replacement.
3. Twist, pull and slide the hose off the radiator, water pump, thermostat or heater connection. Fig. 1: Removing the upper radiator hose
   Fig. 2: Removing the lower radiator hose
   Fig. 3: Always check the heater hose clamps when servicing the cooling system
   
   
4. Clean the hose mounting connections. Position the hose clamps on the new hose.
5. Coat the connection surfaces with a water resistant sealer and slide the hose into position. Make sure the hose clamps are located beyond the raised bead of the connector (if equipped) and centered in the clamping area of the connection.
6. Tighten the clamps to 20–30 inch lbs. Do not overtighten.
7. Fill the cooling system.
8. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks.

The first thing to do is to have the flywheel re-surfaced because a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to chatter or shudder when you let up the clutch pedal, and also be certain that the pilot bearing is replaced, it can be difficult to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft and you will most likely need to obtain a good pilot bearing puller to remove it.

Clean the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block while the flywheel is being re-surfaced, and be sure that all of the old clutch material and dust has been cleaned from the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block, and contamination from an old clutch disk will lead to early clutch failure.

After the flywheel has been installed and torqued down, then you will need to mount the clutch disk and the pressure-plate assembly together onto the flywheel, and be sure that the clutch disk is facing the right way (usually the spring hub will go towards the pressure-plate assembly), and then start to install the pressure-plate assembly bolts but only hand tighten them for now. After the bolts have been started then use the clutch disk alignment tool that should have come with the clutch kit to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, and when you have it aligned so that the alignment tool easily slips through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then tighten down the bolts to the pressure-plate assembly one turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the pressure-plate assembly is flush with the flywheel and then you can torque down the pressure-plate assembly bolts. This is a critical step and the better aligned that you get the disk and pilot bearing, and the easier it is to remove and replace the alignment tool, the easier it will be to install the transmission, and the transmission input shaft should slip smoothly through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing and not have any difficulties mounting up to the engine, and if the transmission hangs up when you are installing it and and the transmission input shaft does not go straight in through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, it can damage the clutch hub and the clutch will chatter or shudder when you let the clutch pedal up, and it will shorten the life of the clutch.

After the clutch has been aligned then install the throw-out/release bearing onto the transmission input shaft collar and the throw-out/release bearing fork, and use a lithium based grease on the pivot points of the throw-out/release bearing fork and where the fork contacts the throw-out/release bearing, and if it did not come greased, then lightly grease the inside of the throw-out/release bearing with a lithium based grease and do not over do it on the grease, you want just enough grease to keep the throw-out bearing and the input shaft collar lubricated but still have a smooth operation to it, and you do not want to damage the clutch from oil or grease contamination as this will cause the new clutch disk to slip.

The transmission can now be installed into the vehicle and be careful not to hang the transmission input shaft on the clutch disk or the clutch disk will be damaged. I hope that this information will help you to replace that clutch with a proper quality repair that you will get the most out of.

Have you checked for power on the fuel shut-off solenoid on the injection pump? There are two wires to the pump. One is the fuel shut-off the other is the cold advance. Both should be hot with the key on when the engine is cold. Do you hear the glow plug relay clicking when you turn the key on?

235/85/16 is a usual size for a f-350 but look on the tag inside the door jamb and it might tell you