1984 Ford Tempo - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

How to remove front spring pin on rear of 1947 ford pickup .

I could not locate a down loadable owners manual
there are several service manuals on Ebay book4cars.com has one for $14.95, yu should also check local salvage yards near you for one.

1984 Ford Tempo - Rear Drum brake drum/shoes
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures below instructions

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel, tire, hub and finally, the drum assembly.

3. Using a spring removal tool, remove the horizontal securing spring at the top first of the assembly.

4. Pull the adjuster locking plate away from the shoes.

5. Remove the lower horizontal securing spring.

6. Unfasten one of the 2 shoe hold-down springs and remove the pin.

7. Remove the brake adjuster.

8. Remove the remaining hold down spring and clip.

9. Lift the brake shoes assembly off the backing plate and wheel cylinder assembly. Be careful not to bend adjusting lever during the removal process.

10. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.

11. Remove the horseshoe retaining clip and spring washer and slide the lever off the parking brake lever pin on the trailing shoe.



To install:

12. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate.

13. Apply a light coating of lubricant to the adjuster screw threads and the socket end of the adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then back-off 1 / 2 turn.

14. Assemble the parking brake lever to the trailing shoe by installing the spring washer and a new horseshoe retaining clip. Crimp the clip until it retains the lever to the shoe securely.

15. Attach the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.

16. Attach the lower retracting spring to the leading and trailing shoe assemblies and install to backing plate. It will be necessary to stretch the retracting spring as the shoes are installed downward over the anchor plate to inside of shoe retaining plate.

17. Install the adjuster screw assembly between the leading shoe slot and the slot in the trailing shoe and parking brake lever. The adjuster socket end slot must fit into the trailing shoe and parking brake lever.



The adjuster socket blade is marked R or L for the right or left brake assemblies. The R or L adjuster blade must be installed with the letter R or L in the upright position, facing the wheel cylinder, on the correct side to ensure that the deeper of the 2 slots in the adjuster sockets fits into the parking brake lever.

18. Assemble the adjuster lever in the groove located in the parking brake lever pin and into the slot of the adjuster socket that fits into the trailing shoe web.

19. Attach the upper retracting spring to the leading shoe slot. Using a suitable spring tool, stretch the other end of the spring into the notch on the adjuster lever. If the adjuster lever does not contact the star wheel after installing the spring, it is possible that the adjuster socket is installed incorrectly.

20. Inspect your work to make sure it is correct.

21. Install the hub/drum and wheel/tire assemblies and adjust the wheel bearings.

22. Lower the vehicle and check brake operation.




Fig.1 Exploded View of Rear Brakes - 1984 Ford Tempo



Fig 2. Remove the brake shoe upper retaining spring with a suitable removal tool.



Fig.3 Removed retaining spring - note spring direction.



Fig.4 Remove the adjuster lock plate. Note the direction of the tab.



Fig.5 Remove the lower retaining spring.



Fig.6 Remove the Hold Down Spring - note brake spring tool used.



Fig.7 remove the shoe adjuster. Note direction of the adjuster spline.



Fig.8 Remove the hand brake cable.



Fig.9 Remove the final brake shoe.



Fig.10 All removed parts in order and properly oriented for re-assembly.

Just a suggestion, look on the firewall in the engine compartment, sometimes screws are inserted from the outside of the cab.

Yo vivo en la ciudad de mexico, si tienes el topaz americano es el carburador holley 6149, pero si tienes el topaz mexicano, los de ford nos hicieron el favor (y digo hicieron porque tengo uno con el mismo problema) de poner un carburador de dos gargantas holley 5200, que hasta donde he averiguado es exclusivo para el mercado mexicano. Es dificil conseguir ese carburador aun reconstruido y caro, a veces lo he visto en refaccionaria california. Otra opcion son los talleres de carburadores que estan sobre Dr. Vertiz en la doctores, te recomiendo carbuservicio, esta casi a la entrada (no camines por ahi la colonia es medio peligrosa, ve directo al taller) lo que yo acabe haciendo es comprando otra version de Holley 5200 y voy a intentar adaptarlo

TAKE THE COVERS OFF THE STEARING COLUMB THEN TURN THE SWITCH TO THE RUN POSITION.INSERT A SMALL PUNCH OR SEAL PICK IN THE HOLE ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE SWITCH POCKET AND PUSH IN ON. TO PUSH THE LOCK PIN IN IN THE OLD SWITCH.

adjest idle

sometimes even with good lights the batterie may be low try to jump start and see what happend

Inertia switch is usually in the trunk around the drivers side quarter panel. Red button on top to press and reset .

Ebay

That cable is a nightmare if you have never done one before.....It is money ahead to let a reputable Transmission shop do it............

Faulty engine control module, crank shaft sensor, anti theft system, fuel pump circuit .

Checking for Battery voltage at the injector an control by the engine computer would be a good thing to do . The red wire at the injector should have B+ voltage with the key on . The other wire, tan with a red stripe goes to the computer. The computer supply's a ground to that wire when an input from a sensor ( crank , cam or some other one , tells it to . Giving a ground on that wire will energize the injector ,there by squirting fuel . There are videos on youtube on checking fuel injectors an circuits .

The fact that you could run it home is an indication that the fuel system and spark are working. That assumption leads into a single component failure. It is either a fuel injector that has decided to stick open. Or a fuel injector circuit that has failed and is supplying continues power to one injector, or a pressure regulator whose internal diaphragm has failed and fuel is leaking past the diaphragm and up the vacuum hose into the air inlet manifold.

1. Find the pressure regulator and trace the vacuum hose to the manifold and confirm that no gas is leaking through the hose. If so replace the pressure regulator.
2. I would remove the spark plugs and find the spark-plug that has the most carbon built up on the tip. Have the fuel injector checked. Replace the corresponding fuel injector and clean or replace the suspect cylinder spark-plug. If the injector is stuck open removing the electrical connection will not close the injector.
3. A third possibility is a blocked return hose from the pressure regulator back to the tank. I think this is the least likely

Good Luck Lots of U-tube

It has to be taken off for rebuild or replacement. A new or reconditioned one is not very expensive, but you can buy a rebuild kit for one for just a few dollars. Getting it off is the hard part. You have to remove the brake drum, then all brake shoes and components, undo the brake line to the cylinder, then remove retaining bolts from the back of the brake plate.

it could very well be the distributor, itself, or the control module inside the distributor

Did you put right plug wires?You should clean trottle body and check IAC SENSOR.

shift selector may not be working or you may need to replace it.

Should be located on the fuel injection rail

Sounds like fuel pump is going bad and needs to be replaced.