20 Most Recent 1984 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The fuel pressure might be low, that is normally caused by a defective fuel pump. Since you changed the pump does it have the pressure bar reading as the old one. If it's the same reading probably you might have been supplied with a defective product. Remove the return pipe and crank the vehicle, if nothing comes out from the return pipe then your fuel pump is definitely a problem

Take it to a qualified repair shop

test switch for failure

Why do you want to change the BCM ? What problems are you having ? Your best bet , have a qualified technician hook up a scanner an read code's .Your vehicle doesn't even have a BCM . Module Controlled Functions The multifunction modules consist of the following:

• air suspension module
• driver door module (DDM)
• lighting control module (LCM)

The air suspension module is linked to its own data link connector (DLC). The air suspension module controls the air suspension system and the electronic variable orifice (EVO) steering. The DDM is connected to the international standards organization (ISO) 9141 communication network. The DDM controls many functions including power door locks and remote keyless entry (RKE). The LCM is connected to the ISO 9141 communication network. The LCM controls both interior and exterior lighting, backlighting, the battery saver and warning chimes. Do yourself a favor an take it to a qualified repair shop.

Many times this is a switch in the trunk. This switch is mounted in the left side of the trunk and is next to an air suspension switch if you have air ride. The switch is called an inertia switch and has a reset button on it. Just press and hold the switch and it will reset and connect the power to the fuel pump.

Bypass it? The computer needs that information in order to run the transmission. There's NO way you can bypass it and still shift.

Take the spedo cable loose from the transmission and pull the flex cable out. Then use some lithium grease to coat the cable and reinstall the cable.

A failed vacuum modulator, a vacuum leak in the hose that goes to it.

that depends on transmission, non computer shift transmissions have a vacuum shift diagram. round cyclinder on back end of tansmission. if it goes bad it will cause your car to smoke, sucking trans fluid into carb. no vacuum can cause shifting problems

I'm not sure if this is what you need? Hope you can read it?

Can be a plugged catalytic convertor...

anual Bleeding The primary and secondary (front and rear) hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest line first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding operation, DO NOT allow the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with High Performance DOT-3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time. NOTE: Non-ABS vehicles have the brake master cylinder (2140) mounted at an angle to the horizontal, bleeding may be better performed if the vehicle is positioned so that the brake master cylinder is horizontal.

1. To bleed the brake system, position a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.

1. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal (2455) down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the brake pedal to full-release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.

1. When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.

1. Repeat this procedure at the brake wheel cylinder on the opposite side. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled, and install the master cylinder cap and gasket. Ensure the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cap. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be at the MAX line to 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below.

1. If the primary (front brake) system is to be bled, repeat Steps 2 through 5 at the right front brake caliper and ending at the left front brake caliper. Bleed the brake master cylinder at the bleed screw after all calipers are bled.

1. After disc brake service, ensure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.

1. Check pedal feel. If brake pedal feels "spongy" repeat bleed procedure, or use the Vacuum method as outlined in Section 06-09, but bleed both rear calipers first.

You can also pressure bleed it. If the abs module needs to be bleed, that requires a special tool. If you have already tried the procedure posted and it didn't work, I'm not sure what next?

Did you see a flashing light in the dash or is there a transponder key

in the junction box near the battery

The first place to start ,hook up a factory or professional diagnostic scanner an check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's In all the module's on the vehicle . The instrument cluster can also set an store DTC'S . Auto zone , advance etc... can not pull these code's . If no code's test the charging system , voltage drop testing . View wiring diagrams for the affected systems . Do they share a common power supply or ground ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

I'm trying to post all that I can in 1postyour number 1 injectors wires are tan the control wire and white /red stripe and the connector at the injector must be cleaned next Go to the plug shown here and locate the wires now next you will have to check these plugs on both sides male/female Then trace the 555 tan back to here next post coming getting to big

sounds like you have a coolant leak from the heater core or a hose under the hood leaking you need help from a mechanic

Try disconnecting the crank shaft position sensor , cleaning connector and reconnecting. May need to replace crank position sensor, but try cleaning connector with electronic cleaner first.

Faulty blend door and/or mode actuator.