20 Most Recent 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Questions & Answers

I believe that this is what you are looking for.....
Fuse and relay locations--2nd generation power distribution box Layout- I think this is a good sticky candidate--



Fuses are listed here

* = maxi fuse

1*=50A I/P fuse panel
2*=40A blower motor relay
3*= 50A 4 wheel ABS module
4*=20a Main light switch-Instrument cluster
5*=50A Ignition switch, starter relay

6*=20A Transfer case relay
7*= NOT USED
8*=20A Auto Ride Control Switch/on off switch
9*=40A Auto Ride Control relay
10*=30A PCM power relay

mini fuses
1=10A A/C relay
2=20A Aux power point
3= not used
4=15A Fog lamps-Daytime lamps
5=10A Air Bag diagnostic monitor
6=10A Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
7=30A 4WABS module
8=30A PCM relay
9=20A Fuel Pump relay and RAP module
10= 15A Horn relay
11=15A Park Lamp relay-Main Light Switch
12=30A Main light switch--Multi Function switch
13=15A Heated O2 sensors, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR solenoid,Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor,
Cannister Vent Solenoid, A4LD Auto Transmission
14=30A Generator-Voltage regulator


Interior fuse panel (mini fuses)

1=7.5A Power mirror switch
2=7.5A Blower motor relay,PAD module,Air Bag diagnostic monitor
3=7.5A Trailer tow connector
4=10A Left headlamp
5=10A Data link connector (DLC)
6=7.5A Air bag diagnostic monitor, Blower motor relay, Passive deactivation Module (PAD)
7=7.5A Trailer Tow connector
8=10A Right headlamp, Daytime running lamps (DRL) module, Foglight relay
9=7.5A Stop Lamp switch
10= 7.5A Speed control-amplifier assembly,Brake pressure switch, Generic electronoc Module (GEM)
Shift lock actuator, Blend door actuator, Main light switch, RABS resistor, A/C heater assembly
Flasher
11= 7.5A Instrument cluster, Main light switch, RABS resistor
12= 10A Power window relay, Washer pump relay
13= 20A Stop lamp switch, Brake pressure switch
14= 20A Rear Anti Lock Brake system (RABS) module
**10A 4WABS module**

15=7.5A Instrument cluster
16= 30A Windshield wiper Motor, Wiper Hi-lo relay, wiper run/park relay
17=7.5A Cig lighter
18=15A Drivers unlock relay-All unlock relay
19=25A PCM power diode
20=7.5A RAP module GEM module, Radio
21=15A Flasher (hazard)
22=20A Aux power socket
23=15A Turn signals
24===not used
25= 7.5A GEM module, Instrument cluster
26= 10A Battery saver relay, Electronic Shift relay, Interior lamp relay
Power window relay,Electronic shift control module, transmission control
27=15A Switch,DRL, Backup lamp switch, DTR sensor,Instrument illumination dimming control module
Dome/map lamp, GEM,electronic shift,Interior lights,Glove box lamp and switch
28=7.5A GEM module-Radio
29= 15A Radio
30=15A Park lamps, trailer Tow relay
31===not used
32=10A rear blower
33=15A Headlamps, DRL module, Instrument cluster
34=7.5A Rear integrated control panel, CD
35=10A RABS test connector
36=7.5A CD, rear integrated control panel, memory seat, Message center Attached images __________________

Your pipe is rusted inside out if you flush the cooling system it will get wors I recommend replacing the pipe.

Freeze plug rusted threw. Not fun to replace. I use a socket and extension to push them in the block, then grab it with pliers and pull it out. Then use the socket to drive the new one in.It can be flush to the block or about a 1/16 inch back.

Need More Information, what is the pipe connected to is it on the overflow tank.

No. Should be smooth.

Someone has been using tap water in the radiator and the minerals have deposited. The coolant system needs to be flushed before replacing the water pump.

You need to check the relays, but the connection pigtail might have been disconnected somehow. Did you have any recent repairs to this vehicle?

Look in your owner's manual

get a Haynes repair manual

or the transmission

check your speakers

NEXIQ 125032 USB Link Software Diesel Truck Diagnose Interface Use professional quality oil filters. While purchasing economy oil filters may save a few dollars, you will be greeted on cold starts by a rattling noise that continues until the engine reaches operating temperature. All oil filters are not made the same. If you were to dissect quality oil filters, such as a MotorCraft, Wix or the Napa Gold Line model, you would see an anti-flowback valve installed within the filter. The purpose of this valve is to keep the oil in the engine's top end after the engine is shut down. By doing so, the valve train is lubricated instantly at start up, instead of seconds later after the oil pump has circulated the oil from the oil pan to the top of the engine. Dissect a cheap oil filter and essentially what you will find is a filter medium akin to a coffee filter, wadded inside a tin can. If you notice the ticking sound on start up, make sure to change your oil as soon as possible and use a good-quality oil filter. Protect the engine with the factory-recommended-weight oil to keep valve ticking noises at bay. Your 5.4-liter left the factory with 5W-20 or 5W-30 semi-synthetic oil in the engine. Use of thicker oils, such as 10W-30 or 20W-50, no matter the climate, can overwork the engine's top end as it attempts to work with the thicker oil coursing through it. Once you have installed the thicker oil, you will most likely experience a ticking noise that does not dissipate when the engine reaches operating temperature. The longer the engine is operated with the wrong oil, the louder the noise will get. The synchronizer, which controls the timing for the top end, will ultimately become damaged and need to be replaced. As soon as you discover this ticking noise and know you have used the thicker oils, have the oil replaced immediately with the recommended weight.

Inside the fuel tank in the fuel pump module