1987 Ford F 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check your coil ignition,or change with the new one

solenoid in the starter motor is failing or the motor itself is, will need replacing. can damage the battery and or the high volts cable.

check the fuel pump

Check your battery terminals to make sure they are not corroded make sure your wires are not corroded also. That would be the first place I look. You can check the wires by testing the resistance with a ohm meter. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dennis_f849d3d6a68c6430

most likely not as it will not be able to draw fuel through the electric pump .Well most vehicles with fuel injection and a pump in the tank i cannot draw the fuel through when someone has filled with diesel or the vehicle has been parked up for a while and the fuel goes dead

There is no power to a solenoid. The small ignition wire simply energizes a plunger so there is contact between the larger battery cables. (assuming that is still the remote mounted solenoid. Still basically the same thing with a starter mounted solenoid).
A weak battery can kill a starter/solenoid. Have it tested.
If you can get your hands on an inductive type ammeter you can also check on the current draw of the starter. Testing a starter on a bench when its free and not turning a motor does not much good.
Also make sure you have good power to the small wire that energizes the solenoid. Normally it should not drop bellow 10 volts while cranking. If it is then perhaps your ignition switch has some resistance.

if it was me i would use 10-W-30 in the summer and if you live in a cold climate 5-W-30 in the winter

Remove the gas-cap, to let air into the gas-tank. You have a "vacuum" (low air pressure) inside the tank, and the fuel-pump is not strong-enough to overcome that condition.

if you call a lock smith they can make a new key even without the old one this will be just as cheap as trying to pop out the lock

This problem shows 2 different Brand trucks. As a low cost effort, you might try a new Ignition switch. Diesel engines need a different wiring impulse since the engine does not fire a sparkplug. This also means a different wiring sequence is used to shut them off. Could be shut-off device is stuck is in shut-off position and not resetting with ignition keyswitch.

Well, if that is true, then the only POSSIBLE culprits can be the plug wire or the plug itself.

Generally any brake issues from 1940 thru 2013-- is just poor& sloppy work,not knowing what needs to be done when workingon brakesToday they have gotten complicated ,with the electronic abs part& all the add on nonsenseThe basics still apply & haven't changed,even most abs canbe bleed as if it wasn't there

Fuse? If good, then you will need to trace wires from the coil backwards to find the source of the loss of power in either B- or B+

It's located in the back of the fender on left front. Remove rear of fender liner (towards firewall), you'll see a large wiring connector with a small bolt head in the middle. Remove connector and two screws, one on either side of the connector, and slide out computer.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038eb10

try changing screen

what sensor are you looking for there are several!

here is the list1. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor2 Air Charge Temperature Sensor3 Air Charge Temperature Sensor 4.Air Charge Temperature Sensor Connector 5.vehicle Speed Sensor 6.Diesel Glow Plug Sensor 7.ngine Coolant Temperature Sensor Aftermarket Body Kits For BMW

Refer to the manufacturers repair manual

try the coolant.