20 Most Recent 1987 Ford F 250 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

On top of the injecion pump you have wires that go to it. You need to remove this cap on the injection pump. Make sure to remove the wires. Once you have your cap off, take a flashlight and look down inside the pump area that is full of fuel. You will need to bar the engine over as you look inside the pump at the shaft on the bottom of the pump an allen screw head will appear in sight. You need to turn this screw clockwise about a 1/4 turn. If you have put a turbo on the truck about 1/4-1/2 of a turn should do it.

Without being able to see it, it is hard to tell. But anytime I ever hear problem is worse with water, I look to the electrical system. I would look into replacing the rotor button and distributor cap as a start. Fuel injection or carburetor?

try removing and cleanig idle air motor( iac) located on the side of the plenum.looks like a nip bottle.

Try new spark plugs sounds like they are coked up.and not giving you a very good spark to start.

Check the operation/condition of the PCV valve and associated hoses,

I would recommend removing the starter and taking to a parts store and having it tested.

Not sure about this engine but some diesels have a relay that looks like a voltge regulator , like the one thats for your starter, and a seperate glow plug controller. Find out if you have 2 seperate components and consider checking both. This what your relay should look like, The 7.3 L has it on top of the engine near the front and between the valve covers. Hold an insulated handled screwdriver to connect both larger studs and keep them connected for 30 sec.s, this jumps the relay. If your glow plugs work after this, then the relay is your problem.

I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.

Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.

It is located on the left inside frame rail, under the bed of the truck, about 2-3 ft in front of the leaf spring. It will be silver and resemble a can with a line on each end similar to this -[[]]-

bad coil

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Engine+%26amp%3B+Engine+Overhaul&partName=Engine+%26+Engine+Overhaul&pageId=0900c15280262ad6&subChapterTitle=Water+Pump&partId=0900c15280262ab5
there you go step by step

sounds like a key switch had to change mine on my 250 ford 4/4

Belt removal instructions (and routing information) may be found on a sticker under the hood. I have posted a picture of the diagram below if these instructions have faded. The routing on the left is without the AC.

Disconnect heater hoses. Remove glove box. remove cover over heater core. Secured by 8mm bolts. replace heater core.

There is or should be a ground strap from the engine to the firewall. Chk it out. Your steering colunm may be acting as a ground, an unreliable one on top of it. remove ,clean and make sure the connection is good. Good Luck, _Ned_

if you go to www.autozone.com
and create a profile you can look up the diagram for your truck

look at you owners manual, if you do not have one you need to supply year, engine size.

the starter may be jammed get someone to turn it over and you tap the starter with a hammar or something like that and it may start or it may be the nutural safety switch for the auto trans if its auto of cource good luck

have you replaced the relay?

is it on the exhaust pipe or the header