20 Most Recent 1984 Ford Bronco II - Page 7 Questions & Answers

look under right side floor board below heater.

You have the correct pcv, the second port is not always used and the port that isn't used is simply plugged off. New pcv valves even come equipped with the block off plug.

You have a m5 (mazda 5 spd) transmission. Same thing that is in my 96 f150 4x4. Ford had a problem with the slave cyclinders on thoes trannys. The slave is mounted inside the bellhousing and wraps aroung the input shaft, eliminating the need for a fork. I am willing to bet my next paycheck that you have brakefluid inside the bellhousing. Ford has a revision on that slave cylinder. because there is no dust boot on it, clutch material gets to the seal and tears it up, and because of the heat the seal will fail. Replace your clutch, Flywheel (will have brake fluid burned into it), Slave cylinder, and possibly the line going to the slave (sometimes the realease locks up). Make sure you get the slave from FORD, it is around $100.00, about 2x as much as anyone else but well worth it. I have not found anyone but ford make it with the boot and upgraded seal. If you get one from a parts store it will only last about 3 months. I tried, first one went out in 3 months, had it warrentied, then second only lasted 2.5 months. I finnaly brokedown and paid the extra for a FORD and it at 11 months it is still going strong.----------------------------------------------------Launch X-431 IV Auto Scanner

One component that involves all three issues is the key switch.Depending on what you have to do to make the engine run again, the problem could be in the switch or wiring.

Fuel vapor canister or charcoal canister. Your purge solenoid may be inoperable. When engine is running the solenoid energizes to purge the canister of vapors into a line going to the intake manifold. Remove the canister and dump the fuel out-the charcoal element inside the canister can be replaced, if completely saturated with gas, as I suspect yours is. Getting it to work again may be a lot of fun on an '87-been too long for me-better find the repair procedure re: the canister, and how to check the purge solenoid. Go to autozone.com, register for free listing your make, model, year, and engine size. Look under repair guides for operation and testing of the charcoal canister. If not enough info there at autozone (some help is there, but not as much as in a repair manual), then buy the repair manual for your bronco or check at local library-they often have many repair manuals for check-out or reference.

The little wire ends and the plastig plug are available at auto elecy shop just cut and shut resolder new terminal and fit to plug. To stop this problem re occouring i would suggest fitting a relay to the head lights both high and low beam and a relay for any spots seperatly but connected to high beam only. excessive amps has been running thru the switch causing meltdown. Relays will reduce the load to the wires

Cracked distributor cap could cause it not to start

that might be refrigerant gas from an ac line

Not sure of your problem but, if it is weight and you have no help, yesterday I used a floor jack to re-hang a Nissan Frontier 4x4 gas tank by myself. It worked perfectly.

Yeh, I know that feeling when you turn the key off for the last time and walk away from a beloved car...Depending on the car, sometimes it's an exhilarating feeling!Maybe the old heap can be brought back to some manner of road-worthiness. After all, you went to the bother of a transmission replacement, so I understand your reluctance to give up now. Before you decide, and certainly before you buy any engine parts, have a compression test done. A compression test will give you good information about the engines's internal condition and whether any internal parts (like valves) are causing the bad running yau are experiencing. After you get the results, you can make a much better- informed decision about how to proceed. A good test with high or even " moderate and similar" compression in all cylinders points to a healthy engine, and warrants putting more money and effort into it. So have the test done and go from there, Good luck.

It would be a whole lot easier if you could take the time to at least mention what year your Bronco is. I Can't look up transmission codes without it. A VIN would be helpful as well.

look up a used one they will show what else they came from www.car-part.com