20 Most Recent 1966 Ford Mustang - Page 8 Questions & Answers

So did the ride height change?

Did you install springs for a heavier V8?

Even the old springs are shot after 45 years

Until you get the suspension at OE specs,your
going to get bump steer

That said,I would have gone with all new aftermarket
Mustang upgrades,that have been avail in the last
couple years just to correct those type issues & take
into consideration you no longer have I assume
belted tires

Radials won't work on yesterdays technology

They came with hydraulic lifters

Most tail light problems are a result of a bad ground......somewhere.

I would check voltage to the coil

It should be less than 12 volts

Iam a 1960's guy, but don't remember the exact voltage
There should be a resistor before the coil

Points are set to a specific gap or you use a dwell meter,
at least back in the day

The distributor needs to be on a clean surface ,so the points
& coil can ground out properly.

The idle could be valves,vacuum leaks,carb,any number of things

You may want a grounding strap from engine to body & sub frame

Check the alternator for AC Leakage (current ripple)

They are many numbers that represent many things, from paint codes to where the vehicle was manufactured. This is called your "Data Plate"

Here is what it will look like on a Mustang.

http://mustangs.about.com/gi/img.htm?qR=/od/buying/a/mustang-decoder.htm

I hope this helps.

Hi,
66 L6 200. Are the timing marks easy to see? I just did this last week on our 66 block. Just bring it to TDC on #1. Remove the pulley/dampner and the timing cover bolts. Remember to remove the front oil pan bolts to the timing cover.
I use an impact wrench on the cam bolt while holding the crank bolt so I don't slip out of TDC. You'll then have to remove the oil slinger. It just slips off the keyway on the crank snout. Carefully pry the cam sprocket to start wiggling it off the cam. Both the cam and crank sprockets are "keyed".
Get the new sprockets and chain aligned with their marks. Slip the crank sprocket on first until the cam sprocket needs mounted. Just remember to hold the crank, cam sprocket, and chain as an assembly when mounting. Once you get the cam sprocket started, start threading the bolt to hold it in place. Tap light a rubber mallet to seat it further on the end of cam.
I would then remove the cam bolt and coat it lightly with thread-loc and then thread it back in. You don't want it backing out later when your driving down the road. ( don't ask how I know). Remember to put the oil slinger back on.
Your Engine has an oil slinger.
Wayne

remove remote mirror control if installed
remove door and window handles. Allen key required.
remove the cup insert used for closing the door
carefully remove door panel by slowly progressing all the way around by prying with special tool or us other tool that will work being careful not to scratch painted metal work by using folded up piece of cloth, towel etc.
Above applies to Pony Door panel but standard would be much the same

one thing to be aware of is that the 200 and the 250 engines are a bit diferent the 200 has a 3 bolt water pump and the 250 a 4 bolt now having said that yes they are of different lenghts and have trouble fitting the 250 in also if you do go fore the V 8 option then you will need to mod a lot, mounts , crossbars , exhaust mounting , diff , and most of all BRAKES go faster needs stop faster brakes a big job when you consider all that, love ford, just a thought

Need to know which MSD Box you have.
I probably have a wiring diagram to fit your installation if you let me know.
THX

one of two things going on with this either one of the door switches is bad or a wire may have become disconnected. What you would need to do is detach the switches from the body of the car so you can check the connection on the backside of the switch to see if its something simple like a loose or disconnected wire. If it isnt something that obvious then the next thing would be to disconnect the switch itself and manually connect the wires together and see if that stops the chiming sound.

Your truck is negative ground. While battery cables were originally color coded, one for positive, one for negative, prolly 80% of the owners do not know that, and put any colored cables on, usually two blue or red ones.

Click over image for zoom and see details about item 21 LIGHTNING SWITCH...



Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

Getting to the point of what you are saying, the problem would be in the alternator and a diode.

Replace the voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster.

Belt tension is adjusted by moving the alternator away from the water pump. Loosen both alternator bolts (don't remove them) and place a pry bar or wooden handle between the alternator body and the engine block. GENTLY apply pressure to move the alternator away from the engine - when the belt has less than 1 inch vertical play, tighten the alternator bolts while maintaining tension on the alternator. If proper tensioning doesn't solve the squeal, then I would suspect the new belt is contaminated with oil or grease.

Check the vacuum modulator on the drivers side
of trans at rear,the thing with the vacuum hose

Make sure you have vacuum from the engine,
coming from the ported vacuum under carb

Check Ebay or one of the classic mustang websites/forums.

Down
- undo zipper on one side about 12" just to take a little tension out
- undo latches
- top down 2"
- close latches (if you do not close them you are going to rip your top)
- top down all the way, if you see a little circle and it is not folding just right, stop mid way and give it a light karate chop movement to help it fold properly
*put the boot on for long drives, it will protect the top
*store the car with the top up, it keep the material nice and properly stretched

Up
- Windows down at least 75%
- Top up and when it gets about 2" from being closed stop and open latches
- Close rest of way, match up the pins and give it a little pull and snap the latches