How do you replace the water pump?
Posted by Anonymous... on
REMOVAL: 1) Remove the plastic belt routing diagram (there is a bolt underneath if I remember correctly)(yep, 8mm). 2) Using a 3/8 breaker bar or a ratchet, insert into the belt tensioner and push toward the back of the engine enough to release tension on the belt with one hand, and with the other hand, remove the belt from the water pump pulley. Then remove the bar/ratchet from the tensioner. 3) Remove the 4 bolts holding the shiny pulley onto the water pump (11mm). 3a) Large catchpan underneath, there's more coolant in there than it looks like. 4) With a ratchet and possibly a short extension, carefully remove the 5 bolts that hold the water pump onto the block (8mm). 5) Pry the water pump away from the block and clean both surfaces so they are free of gasket material. INSTALL: 1) Line up the gasket and *carefully* fit the new water pump onto the block. The holes are very easy to line up wrong because they are almost, but not quite, equally spaced from each other, so be VERY careful you have all 5 holes lined up right. 2) Screw each bolt in a few tuns to make sure they all go in smoothly. If you get any resistance (it will feel like it's crossthreaded), you have the holes wrong, and you need to rotate the water pump so the holes are lined up right. I can't stress this enough. 3) Torque all the bolts down (I can't recall the exact in/lbs - sorry) in a star pattern. 4) Mount the pulley onto the water pump shaft, torque bolts down (an air ratchet helps greatly here as the shaft will try to spin when the bolts start getting tight). 5) Release the tension as explained in step 2 at the top, put the belt back on the water pump pulley & double check to make sure it's on all the other pulleys while you're at it. 6) Bolt the plastic bolt routing diagram back onto the head. 7) Refill the resevoir and bleed the system of air. That's it! It's an hour or so job if you've never done it before. Note, if you're not using a gasket, get some water pump gasket sealer and make a gasket around the entire diameter of the mounting surface of the water pump. Remember to make little circles around the bolt holes also.
Posted on May 15, 2008
The fuel gauge reads full, till the low fuel light comes on and then it will drop to empty. typically when it still has half a tank of gas. If I ignore it the next time I start it up it starts on full and stays there til it does it again, I estimate it has 4 gallons of fuel left at that time.
Posted by testirm on
It needs a tank meter I'ts in the fuel tank
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
what is the firing order and cylinder layout for 2000 pont. montatna 3.4
Posted by dcaira2001 on
Check the visual aid below to confirm.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
OBD2 Link Error comes on when scanner reads.
Posted by ezekiel825 on
You may have the wrong code reader. Try another one and see what happens. It could also be a blown fuse, check all your fuses, in particular the one that controls the cigarette lighter.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
I have a vapor lock in the cooling system that I can't fix. I changed the thermistat because I was getting very little heat, that worked for a while, then April of 2010 I couldn't get any heat from the front or rear heater, it was like that all summer. The cooling system worked fine just no heat. In August I pulled the dash apart to check the controls and ducts and they worked fine. I wormed the engine to operating temperature and the heater core was cold, so I back flushed the system, and still no heat. I opened the bleeders to get the air out, I would drive a mile out and back and bleed the system again, and I did this 10 or 12 times and finally the heaters worked again. That lasted about a month and the temperature gauge fluctuated and the heaters quit working again. I bled the system and the heaters work for about a month and I had to bleed it again, now that the weather turned cold the heaters work intermitently and I have to bleed the system almost daily. What can I do to fix the problem.
Posted by dlmcburk on
alright here goes the van probably has the 3.1 or the 3.4 engine the engine is fited with a bleeder valve that when you change your coolant or change a thermostat you will have to bleed all the xtra air that is in the lines if you dont the antifreeze will not circulate and causes no heat and could also cause your engine to overheat tearing up your engine. make sure you find the bleeders and get all the air out and you should have heat. hope this helped
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
I Just bought this used 2003 Pontiac Montana and on the test drive it beeped continually while driving in forward or reverse. It doesn't beep while in Park with engine on. It seems like the beeping noise is coming from the back. Started the next day and all is well.
Posted by mzovi on
My van did this aswell, you must have a power sliding door, when it is not latched properly this warning goes off but it won't say on your message center "door ajar". Stop and reopen the door and close it again no more bell. good luck.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
need to replace power steering pump. whats the step by step way to remove and reinstall
Posted by tlbrooks28... on
Remove the accessory drive belt from the pump
Remove the pressure hose from the pump
Remove the return hose from the pump
Tighten the power steering pump bolts to 34 N·m (25 lb ft).
Install the return hose to the pump.
Then just reverse what you did to remove.
Once you have it al back together fill the resevoir.
Do not over fill
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
1999 pontiac montana shows these codes p0102, p0135, p0141, p0443. I replaced the O2 sensors, both up and downstream. I checked the gas cap. I reset the codes and 2 days later, they all came back. I also checked the wiring harness connected to the O2 sensors.
Posted by louis... on
P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low InputBasically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. A more technical description would be that the MAF circuit had lower than expected voltage (air flow). Other MAF sensor circuit DTC trouble codes are P0100, P0101, P0103, and P0104.
You will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness.
A code P0102 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be badThe MAF may be dirty or otherwise contaminated (Note: if you use a reusable oiled air filter, be careful not to apply too much oil or that can contaminate the MAF).The MAF sensor may be faultyThe vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
Possible Solutions:The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)Replace the MAF sensor.
P0135 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)This code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0135.
A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:O2 Heater element resistance is highInternal short or open in the heater elementO2 heater circuit wiring high resistanceopen or short to ground in the wiring harness
Possible SolutionsRepair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectorsReplace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. See also: P0135 (Bank 1, Sensor 1).
A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
open or short to ground in the wiring harnessO2 heater circuit wiring high resistanceO2 heater element resistance is highInternal short or open in the heater element
Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter.
Possible SolutionsReplace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
P0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve CircuitThe Evaporative Emissions System (EVAP) allows fumes from the gas tank to enter the engine to be burned, rather than vented into the atmosphere as an emission. The purge valve solenoid is supplied switched battery voltage. The ECM controls the valve by operating the ground circuit, opening the purge valve at specific times allowing these gasses to enter the engine. The ECM monitors the ground circuit as well, watching for faults. When the purge solenoid isn't activated, the ECM should see a high voltage on the ground circuit. When the solenoid is activated, the ECM should see the ground voltage pulled low, close to zero. If the ECM doesn't see these expected voltages, or senses an open in the circuit, this code is set.
P0443 trouble code symptoms could be just an malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination. There may be no drivability problems at all. But, it's also possible to have a lean condition or a rough running engine if the purge valve is stuck open. Usually though, these symptoms are accompanied by other EVAP codes. Another symptom may be excessive pressure in the gas tank in the form of a "whooshing" sound when the cap is removed, indicating a purge valve that isn't working at all or stuck closed.
To cause a P0443, there has to be a problem with the purge control CIRCUIT, not necessarily the valve. Usually they are a unit housing the valve and the solenoid as an assembly. Or it could be comprised of a separate solenoid with vacuum lines to a purge valve. That said, it could be any of the following:
Bad purge solenoid (internal short or open)Wiring harness chafing or rubbing another component causing short or open on control circuitConnector worn, broken or shorted due to water intrusionDriver circuit inside powertrain control module (PCM) is badPossible Solutions
1. Using a scan tool, command the purge solenoid to activate. Listen or feel for a clicking coming from the purge solenoid. It should click once, or on some models it may click repeatedly.
2. If it doesn't click with scan tool activation, unplug the connector and examing the solenoid and connector for damage, water, etc. Then check for battery voltage on the feed wire with the key on. If you have battery voltage, then ground the control side manually using a jumper wire and see if the valve clicks. If it does, then you know the solenoid is working properly but there is a problem with the control circuit. If it doesn't click when you manually ground it, replace the purge solenoid.
3. To check for a problem on the control circuit (if the solenoid tests okay and you have voltage to the solenoid) plug the solenoid back in and remove the control circuit (ground) wire from the ECM connector (If you're unsure how to do this, do not attempt). With the ground wire removed from the ECM, turn the key on and then manually ground the Purge valve control wire. The solenoid should click. If it does, then you know there is no problem with the control wire to the solenoid and there is a problem with the ECM purge solenoid driver circuit in the ECM. You'll need a new ECM. However if it doesn't click, then there must be an open in the wiring between the ECM and and the solenoid. You must find it and repair it.
Posted on Apr 04, 2012
I just bought a 1998 Pontiac Trans Sport Montana a week ago. It had half a tank of gas when I bought it and the Fuel Gauge appeared to show the correct amount. I filled the Gas Tank for the first time when it got low and the Fuel Guage stayed pegged to Full. Still there after driving so long I should have been almost on E. I tried to disconnect the positive on the battery for a bit and reconnect. No luck. Any thoughts? Electrical? Sending Unit? What's the most painless way to determine the cause? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Posted by Toby Toby on
When gauge is pegged at full, usually means a bad ground. Check wires at fuel tank, wiggle around, maybe one came off. The bad news is it is hard to get to without removing the tank. Sometimes you can reach arm in and get to them. Also check body ground at read of van.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
getting code po335, p1336 on a 1998 mercury villager 3.0 which is a nissan v-6 engine also where is the sensor located? thank you
Posted by bay8 on
P0335 and P0336 Engine crank sensor malfunction
To test this code, have a visual inspection of the location and wirings of the crank sensor. If the engine has a cam sensor, you might mistook it as the crank sensor (it is a good idea to contact ATS that can research this for you). Check the sensor wires for insulation making sure it is getting a voltage signal as shown in the wiring diagram. Sometimes, the wires itself is soaked with dirty oil causing the sensor to fail. If OK, check the engine timing belt system for any slack which can also cause the sensor to throw in the code. If all of these prove OK, remove the crank sensor and check it for resistance as compared to the standard specs. Lots of times, if the sensor probe end is contaminated with oil or cracked, this can only be revealed after the crank sensor is removed
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
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