20 Most Recent 2003 Ford Thunderbird Questions & Answers

Do you have codes you can google or give me? That car is the same as my 2004 Lincoln L/S Is the Battery Dead? They only last 2 to 4 years & have to get at a dealer because of the trunk vent hose

This is an item that may be found in some Salvage yards. I would go to an independent shop for a better price. Remember that you also have airbags in the column and a little experience would help. A Salvager could find the same color. If you forgo a power tilt and convert to a manual tilt, it would be cheaper. Your car is 14 years old and there should be some in Salvage yards.

It sounds like the dealer may be telling u a few stories. If it happened 3 times already than the TRUE PROBLEM was never found. They sound like they want u to take your car from them. I would definitely speak to management If u intend on keeping it. If u can.......start looking. Good luck & don't let the dealer take all your $

Most likely a 20 amp fuse. If the fuse is good, Find the coolant fan relay(under hood). Check to see if fan runs with A/C on. If the relay is good, the fan will run continuous with the A/C on. If the fan does not run with A/C on, The Relay is Bad. Check the fan by unplugging the relay and install a 14 Ga. jumper into the normally open terminal position(socket) If fan runs with jumper, check the remaining 2 positions in the socket for Voltage(13v.) If voltage is present, relay is bad. If voltage is not present, Temperature sensor(signal to relay) is Bad. Leave jumper in place to keep from over heating engine. Fan should stop running when Ignition switch is turned off. This engine will blow a head gasket if over heated. A service manual is recommended for component locations and troubleshooting.

David, Taillight bulb replacement: this is an involved procedure that you will probably want to let your dealer do. I do NOT have the steps listed here but here is a tool that you will find very helpful if you decide to do it yourself:

• "A # 12 Snap On nut driver shortened about an inch will get the hard to reach nut. Snap On is the only one I found that was hollow & would slide over the 4" stud." quote from TBN member
• Other tools may be found that will work.
• You can try pliers, may work, will just take patience and time.

Check the attached links, "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." http://forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com/threads/2003-t-bird-rear-tail-light-cover-removal.4566 How do you change taillight on 2003 Ford Thunderbird How to Change Taillight Bulb in Thunderbird eHow Change Your Car Headlight and Tail Light Bulbs MonkeySee

David, Taillight bulb replacement: this is an involved procedure that you will probably want to let your dealer do. I do NOT have the steps listed here but here is a tool that you will find very helpful if you decide to do it yourself:

• "A # 12 Snap On nut driver shortened about an inch will get the hard to reach nut. Snap On is the only one I found that was hollow & would slide over the 4" stud." quote from TBN member
• Other tools may be found that will work.

remove the nuts that hold the tail lamp in place and gently pull from bracket. Check the attached links, "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." How do you change taillight on 2003 Ford Thunderbird How to Change Taillight Bulb in Thunderbird eHow Change Your Car Headlight and Tail Light Bulbs MonkeySee

for most it require removal of door skin

Door panels have hidden screws. Usually at the open handle, under the window/door switch. and around the perimeter of the door. You will have to pop off switches and look for plastic caps that cover them. Once found first lift up on the panel. If it comes up, pull it out . And remove any plugs you find. If it doesn't lift up, then start at the bottom and pop it out. (held on with plastic plugs, that do break) Once the panel is of, you will see the bolts to remove. You have to remove the window from the regulator first. This is generic, for all cars. I do to many to just remember your make.. Just a note. When pulling the panel and it just doesn't seem to come off at one point, You probably missed a screw. Pulling it will give you an idea where it is.

Is the check engine light on , or any other lights ?

Chart 5

• Unique Idle Concerns:
  • Fast Idle
• Additional Drivability Concerns:
  • Diesels/Runs On

Note: If vehicle runs normally after the ignition key is turned OFF, check for damaged ignition switch, IGN RUN circuit short to power, VPWR circuit short to power, etc. Refer to applicable Wiring Diagram and/or Workshop Manual. SYSTEM/COMPONENT REFERENCE (Section 5 Pinpoint Test unless noted)

• Base engine air leaks, including proper sealing of intake manifold and components/vacuum lines attached to intake air (such as the PCV, EGR or IAC valve/vacuum lines).

• Visual, Engine System - General Information Section 303 of the Workshop Manual.

• Verify engine operates at normal temperature.

• Visual (refer to Symptom Index, or Engine Cooling Section 303 of Workshop Manual, to diagnose any cooling system concerns that are present).

• Fast idle concerns:
• Key on, engine off, monitor TP MODE PID while wiggling TP sensor circuits. TP MODE PID can also be monitored during vehicle drive. With throttle closed, TP MODE PID must be C/T (closed throttle).

• TP Mode PID is not C/T with throttle closed: NOTE: At vehicle start, the TPREL will begin at about 1.25 volts, and count down to the lowest TP V value seen since engine start. If the TP V value goes below the "normal" range, then increases again, TPREL will set to the lower voltage. If TP V is about 0.04 volts greater than the TPREL value at closed throttle, the PCM will go into part throttle mode.
• Monitor TP V and TPREL PIDs for sudden changes while checking for intermittent TP circuit/connector concerns. Also check for loose/worn throttle plates. If no concern is found, GO to Z1 in Section 5.

• Intake Air System (air leaks)

• GO to HU1

• Idle Air Control (IAC) System

• GO to KE1

• Additional Testing

• GO to Z1

Do you know what these thing's are that I have listed above ? Mostly the TP - throttle position sensor . These are known to cause this type of problem . Has it ever been changed before ?

Did you check the fuses?

I suggest you take this to the dealer ! This is a complex system with two control modules ,the front control module an rear control module , two relays in the Aux . relay box . Top up relay an top down relay . The two control modules communicate on the SCP serial data bus . If you don't know what I telling you ,best take it to someone who does . Need a Factory scan tool to check this problem out. Communications Network Information Module Cars are getting more an more electronic an with out proper training you just shouldn't try to fix them , It takes special tools an training !

If the air gets hotter shortly after you accelerate, you have a vacuum leak somewhere under the dashboard, or where the vacuum line enters the cabin through the firewall. This causes the heater blend door not to close properly, and allows heat from the heater core to mix with the refrigerated air. Check refrigerant pressures to verify that sufficient charge is present, and make sure that refrigerant oil content is sufficient. (Sometimes incompetent mechanics do not properly add refrigerant oil, eventually causing catastrophic system failure.)

follow the AC lines until you find the service fittings...low side (chg) should be the larger of the two

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=2003%20Ford%20Thunderbird%20How%20to%20replace%20ignition%20coils&qs=n&form=QBVR&pq=2003%20ford%20thunderbird%20how%20to%20replace%20ignition%20coils&sc=0-0&sp=-1&sk= 2003 Ford Thunderbird How to replace ignition coils Bing Videos

Ignition cylinder is worn out...replace.

Check engine codes for misfire data--should say which cylinder.

Check the switch. It may have gone bad.

Ford coil on plug systems are multi strike ignition (spark) under 1300 rpm then go to single strike a single cylinder misfire can be created by several things . #1 Test engine compression on a cranking engine compression it should be around 150 lbs but if gauge reads different COMPARE to other cylinders that work fine #2 check engine running compression this will be around 120 lbs then rev over 2000 rpm and check pressure drop again COMPARE to other cylinders that work fine. any drop would indicate valve train problems. #3 All internal engine is fine then external problems are present vacuum leaks and or fuel injection volume is low.