1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check for clogged egr valve.

remove and wash with diesel after which u blow dry

The exhaust back pressure relief Sensor is taking out the idle computer ?????? A wiring diagram isn't going to help , you need a diagnostic flow chart or as ford calls it , pinpoint tests for that DTC . Your best bet , take your vehicle to a qualified diesel tech .

My info says for 7.5L federal emissions has a map sensor, no maf. California emissions has a maf sensor, no map. Some fords if you suspect maf sensor problem, everything off, unplug it, then start the vehicle take it for a drive. If it runs better check for a problem with the maf system. sensor--wiring circuits--computer, whatever. Are there any applicable trouble codes? How long since a tune-up?

Have you looked in a junk yard for that harness?

You still have air in the lines, start from the farthest rear wheel and do the bleed down again, a mighty vac vacuum pump would help a lot !

dirty contacts on fuses

that sounds about right to me, and if you run that fuel with ethanol in it that does not help either

No temp condition given; however, long cranking not best starting practice. Better short crank, pause half minute, crank again. Do not prime or pump before, during, or after pump but let computer control the run. Pedal use interferes with computer control of run start.

Assuming this is a 460 Ford Big Block:

REMOVAL

-Drain cooling system.
-Remove drive belts.
-Remove bolts attaching fan shroud to radiator.
-Remove fan blade from fan clutch and remove fan shroud.
-Remove fan clutch and water pump pulley from water pump.
-Remove four bolts and one nut attaching A/C compressor mounting bracket to cylinder head and water pump. Do not remove A/C compressor or power steering pump from A/C compressor mounting bracket.
-Pull A/C compressor mounting bracket forward to remove from stud on water pump.
-Remove bolt attaching generator adjusting arm to water pump. Remove four bolts attaching generator mounting bracket to cylinder head, cylinder block and water pump.
-Remove remaining water pump attaching bolts and remove water pump from engine front cover.
-Remove water pump cover from water pump. Discard water pump housing gasket and water pump cover gasket.
INSTALLATION
-Remove any gasket material from water pump cylinder front cover and separator plate mating surfaces.
-Position new water pump housing gasket and water pump cover gasket coated on both sides with Perfect Seal Sealing Compound B5A-19554-A or equivalent water-resistant sealer meeting Ford specification ESE-M4G115-A.
-Position water pump and water pump cover onto engine front cover. Install bolts and tighten to16-24 Nm (12-18 ft. lbs.).
-Install generator mounting bracket to cylinder head, cylinder block and water pump with four attaching bolts. Install generator adjusting arm to water pump with one attaching bolt. Tighten 7/16-inch bolts to 54-71 Nm (40-53 ft. lbs.) and 3/8-inch bolts to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft. lbs.).
-Position A/C compressor mounting bracket over water pump stud and secure to cylinder head with four bolts tightened to 54-71 Nm (40-53 ft. lbs.) and secure nut to water pump to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft. lbs.).
-Install water pump pulley and fan clutch to water pump hub with four bolts. Install fan blade to fan clutch with four bolts. Tighten water pump pulley, fan clutch hub bolts, and fan-to-fan clutch hub bolts to 16-24 Nm (12-18 ft. lbs.). Install fan shroud.
-Install drive belts.
-Fill and bleed the cooling system.
-Start the engine and check for leaks

i dont know if its there or not but you could look on the intake manifold its usually raised numbers and its the firing order

you can get a set of gaskets through dorman they cost about 110 dollars the driver side is a little harder there is a vent on that side leave it on the cover if you take it off the little rubber gasket will leak also disconnect your batteries because the wires for your glow plugs and injectors are molded into the valve cover gaskets there is a video on you tube just type in your truck and change valve cover gaskets

Inspect to see if it is hydraulic or cable If hydraulic check the fluid possibly a bad slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder if cable possibly bad spring and or cable.

There should be one filter per tank. If there is start with changing the fuel filter in the front tank and if you are still having problems then your front fuel pump seems like it may be going out.

Replace them with OE style cables Forget the repair

Your Timimg belt or Chain seal is leaking definatly need to replace the seal as this could cause belt slippage and cause your belt to wear premature and you will slip timeing then your out of luck on the side of the road.

Bad oil pump but with knocking now there is a lot more damage internal

map sensor, make vacuum longer, twice as long...

You may want to surf around on some of the powerstroke forums for detailed answers, but I know the powerstrokes use oil pressure to control the injectors so you may have some problems with the high pressure oil pump.
Again, it is just a guess. I just wanted to point you to some of the Ford Powerstroke forums which may be of much more help for you.
Good luck..

could be o2 sensors or possibly egr valve