1995 Ford F350 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

yes its worn a bit and this is normal on manual gearboxes ,now could be a gearchange problem inside the gearbox as the reverse gear is worn on the end of the teeth ,then it could be the driver over the driven shaft is worn so the layshaft is dragging or a selsector rod ,try slowing the idle down to around 600/700 rpm as this will make it easier as this monster 7litre engine should idle at around 500 with no problem ,Now remember that iam in europe and all our or 99% of motors are manual and at least 50% diesel and this grating in reverse is normal as thier is no syncromesh on this gear ,you sort of lift clutch up a bit to move the gear clusters inside the box then drop it in i do it as second nature without thinking about it One question would you still drive this motor if had to pay around 10 dollars a gallon for petrol and top band of road tax which in ireland is around 1500 euros a year and a bit less here in spain?

it could be the fuel pump,the fuel pump relay.the fuel pressure regulator,a blocked fuel filter,a broken fuel line or a plgged fuel return line.

That code is for the ignition control circuit. It is the white wire that runs from Ignition module to the VCM. this controls the timing.This is either a bad wire/connection from the VCM to the ignition module, ignition module, or VCM. I would check them closely in that order. This can commonly be a bad ditributorTests/Procedures: 1. Use an air gap spark tester set at 25-30 KV and check the output from the coil wire and then at multiple spark plug wires.2. Bring the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) #1 and verify the rotor is pointing to the 8 that is cast into the distributor housing to make sure it is not out of time.3. If the distributor is dropped correctly, but spark is erratic at the plugs but good at the coil, replace the distributor cap and rotor with one from the dealer.Potential Causes: Distributor CapIncorrect Distributor TimingIgnition RotorTech Tips: This trouble code can set from extended cranking and is most likely not the cause of the problem as long as there is sparkTests/Procedures: 1. Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) or lab scope, check the White wire at the ignition module pin B while cranking. This should be a 0-5 volt square wave pattern any time the engine is cranking or running.2. If there is more than 5 volts on the White wire at pin B, check the White wire from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the ignition module pin B for shorts to voltage.3. If the wire checks OK, check powers and grounds to the PCM while cranking. If the powers and grounds are OK at the PCM, the PCM will need to be replaced.Potential Causes:Ground Ignition Module PowerPowertrain Control Module (PCM) WiringTech Tips: Conditions for Setting the DTC The Ignition Control voltage is more than 4.9 volts.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day

did you get your brakes fixed? If so what was wrong?

What is the problem that you experience

OK, did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing? If not, the warranty will be void, and the pedal will drop even if the rest of the hydraulic system is sealed. I would try another new master cylinder if the bench bleeding was not performed and the master cylinder was deemed to be damaged.If the master cylinder was bench bled, and it does this, maybe you can get it replaced with a new one under warranty. Good luck on this repair.

check dimmer switch or check head lights ground wires.

you only have power to the pump for 5 seconds unless the engine starts. That is a safety feature so fuel does not continue to pump in an accident. You do have power the entire time you are you are cranking.
So have someone turn the key to ON and check during the first 5 seconds.
The power relay turns on the PCM, computer which in turn, turms on the fuel pump relay, which starts the pump.

replace the transmission range sensor. Adjust the new sensor by loosening the bolts slightly, turning the key on, putting the truck in reverse, and turning until reverse light come on.

there are 2 possible sensors, depending on which transmission you have.

sounds as though the wiring harness to the trans may need to be inspected to be sure it is in good order and the connections are seated firmly.
I am assuming the transmission is not the issue.
I am thinking maybe a branch or something snagged a wire harness and jiggled it loose maybe?

Your vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes. It either has a "Rear Antilock Brake System" (RABS) or it is equipped with "4 Wheel Anti-Lock" (4WAL).

Some units use a pressure regulating valve that screws into the rear port on the master cylinder.
All units built in 1995 have lines that go to either the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) or to the RABS Valve. However, that vehicle does not use a conventional proportioning valve, so I am not sure what to tell you.

During the course of troubleshooting, do not disconnect the battery in an attempt to turn of the engine as it may damage the alternator. Your engine should use very minimal electricity and none for combustion.

Check the vacuum lines for leaks or worn out ones. Check for loose connections. There may be leaking fumes back into the system which continuous the combustion. Especially if the idling is a little rougher or bad compared to the normal idling you get.

You will have to replace test the ignition switch in the steering column. You may need it replaced. Other parts which may contribute is the shutoff solenoid which blocks fuel and fumes from entering the chamber.

To shutdown the vehicle you can either remove the fuse or power to the fuel pump or injector or block the intake with something that cannot be pulled in by the engine.

ther is a pin in the igntion switch that breaks all the time in order to get the truck to turn off if its a 5 speed just pop the clutch real fast to kill it if its an auto grab a set of pliers put on some hd gloves and pull the ignition coil wire from the coil on the fender wall or one of the spark plug wires but make sure you are wherein gloves or you will get shocked and that will kill the truck then disconnect the battery and you can replace the switch

Hello, My thoughts are that someone needs to look underneath the truck from the front bumper to the rear axle. There are so many things that can cause this.

If the problem came after the truck was sitting a long time, you can have flat spots on the tires or rust spots on the rotors. As the rust builds up where moisture was held by the brake pads, the rotors will chaff against the pads until the rust is worn away. If the rust is thick enough, there will be rubbing and shaking without applying the brakes.

Check your U-joints. The U-joint to the front axle from the Transfer case seems to go out more from sitting than through use. Check the front hubs and CV joints and of course the rest of the U-joints. Look at the driveshafts for little square rust patches where balance weights fell off.

While driving at 40mph and shaking, slip the gearshift to Neutral and note if the shaking stops. Of course the truck will eventually stop, but you can feel if the shake was from the engine "Chugging" and better tell what direction the shake is coming from.

Check your tierods for excess play. I hope my solution helps you. I would be interested in knowing the end result.

Well, it could mean that the emergency brake has not been fully released.The ABS system light is on if something has occurred within the ABS system. Something faulty may have happened there, get it checked out!

i just done this it cost me 30 bucks and took me 20 mins to put it on.

look under the hood on driverside there is a fuse box it should be a 15amp fuse

1.3L=Firing Order::1342

There is a notch in the plastic knob, inside the knob it's self there is a spring retaining clip to keep it on the shaft. You will need a dental pick like tool to be able to reach inside and push in the retaining spring.

Below is the only picture of the procedure I could find to help visualize the process.

CLICK HERE

may be the water level is low or the piston rings or head are wornout .check the motor oil level too