1995 Ford F350 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need to check fuel preasure and change your fuel filter

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check for a bad/loose ground wire in the battery or where it connects to the engine or chassis

-check your transmission fluid level. park the truck on a level surface with the engine running and pull your dipstick and read the level in regards to the engine and trans temp (hot or cold) -if that checks out i would go under the truck and check all of the electrical connectors that go to the transmission making sure they are secure and making good contact. also check the wiring to the tcm(normally located on the right side frame rail if i remember correctly)and make sure they are all secure and in good condition Did you do the rear main seal yourself or did you pay a garage to do it? and is there anything else that was done at that time?

I would start by double checking all my work with the lock and tumblar installation and making sure they are aligned properly. - then i would focus on checking the grounds first. starting with the one on the right front fender that connects directly to the battery. I also would check the one underneath the drivers side dash near the parking brake pedal and clutch pedal (if equipped). - i would also check the power and ground feeds to you underhood fuse box as well. --Let me know what you find and ill see if i can be of more help

What size engine ? gas or diesel ? Did you check fuel pump inertia switch for being tripped ?

Is this a no crank, no start issue? Or is it a crank, but no start issue? If no crank no start, when turning the ignition key to the start position, and you get no cranking, then you have a couple possibilities... bad starter, bad solenoid at starter, or bad Battery connections. It could even be a bad positive battery cable. Bad battery terminal connections, are the most common result of a no crank no start issue. Check the terminals, clean them, clean them, and did I say clean them? check this... Turn the key to the on position just in front of the start position. Then turn the lights on, are your headlights on. If they are on, that means you' are getting power through the ignition system. So ignition switch is not problem. There is also a circuit breaker in the under the dash fuse box. It runs your power for the ignition system. It's a small half inch by 1 inch? Silver block. Try replacing that?

Start system. Most likely bad connection to Block temp sensor that sends data to ECU there are two sensors, one for the dash temp gague, and this one. I had this problem on 20 yr old car. Found the correct sensor removed connector cleaned connector with contact spray and toothpick, scraped male spade connector on sensor to bright metal. Cleared codes. Instant start, just like new. Didn't have to change sensor as many claim needs to be done. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't know where yours is. Try a google image search for yr, Make model "Temp sensor" this one is probably near the back of the block. It has a "spring lock" to make sure it stays on. The dash temp is just a standard electrical connector.

wet with what gas or antifreeze if anti freeze head gasket check anti freeze level and oil level and color.

Catalac converters plugged up from unburnt fuel .remove & replace .tune up replace plugs & gap correctly .

As tight as u can tighten by hand wrench then back off 1/4 turn then limit.

Remove vaccum line from brake booster.start truck put finger over hose sucking in @3 sec. Its good.most times vaccum pump locks up .replace the pump

3 possible senerios Check the the fluid level is on the hot oil mark (in drive) on the dipstick. Too much oil will aeriate and overheat and lower operating pressure in the tranny causing band and clutch package slippage causing more problems adjust to correct mark2-- have a pressure test done on the tranny for low operating prerssures from failing pumps and blocked filters.3-- check oil lines to tranny cooler are not bent kinked or blockedCheck the oil colour It should be a bright cherry red but if it is dirty black or brownish it indicates the oil is burning and the tranny should be looked at.

Check.volage.both.sides.of.fuse

it sounds like you should check the wire harness for the injectors and the glow plugs they are molded into your valve cover gaskets and over time the little tab that holds them together breaks and you get a loose connection you will have to pull the valve covers to check

i am going to assume its a 7.3 and on top of the motor on the passenger side you will see the relay in between the valve cover and the intake

have you taken off the valve covers to see if the connectors are broken the wires to the injectors and the glow plugs and they are molded into the valve cover gasket over time the little tab that holds them together breaks and they come apart the gaskets are about 110 dollars through dorman

It could be the module, but you should not just start replacing things without a proper diagnosis. You need to scan the computer for error codes, if no codes exist the problem is likely mechanical and you will have to do further tests on the hydraulic s and transmission electronincs. This is beyond the scope of drive way repair and you may be better having it towed to a local shop.

its stuck in place hit it with a hammer to jar loose