20 Most Recent 1994 Ford Explorer Limited - Page 9 Questions & Answers

First is this an after market system? If so you will have to find the box under the dash and disconnect it. also if it has starter disable you will have to repair the wires that the installer cut to install that feature. If it is the factory alarm it is behind the dash.

I have a 1994 Ford 4x4 6 the trans has starting to act funny when cold won't go in drive for about 5 min, also takes a long time to change gears after gets warm. I'm changing fluid and filter to see if that will help.. Any help is much needed thank you [email protected]

If you are using the correct replacement transmssion you will not need to flash the computer

Check your injector circuit. It will also let you know if the PCM is allowing the injectors to energize. Here's how:Pull off one injector connector. Turn key to on. Use a test light and clip the black lead of tester to ground, Use the tester's probe to probe both wires in the injector connector. One of the wires should have power and light the testlight, meaning the injector power circuit is working. Now for the injector ground circuit. Move the black lead of testlight to the battery positive post. Now probe the wire in the connector that did not light up. Have someone crank the car over. When cranking the test light SHOULD be blinking, meaning the PCM is properly grounding the injectors to work. If both wires passed the test, your injector circuit is good. If it's not working,either the power circuit from ignition switch to injectors is out (no steady light), or the ground circuit from injectors to PCM is not working (no blinking light).Good luck, post back with results for further assistance.

What is the nature of the problem?

Did you change the fuel 8 dollar fuel filter in the back under the truck? You should fuel rails usually are not a problem ever in a bigger ford lincoln, Did you check all relays, locating the fuel shut off relay? why i ask, is when you turn the key to the point beofre start the ford goes wheeee, and thats the fuel pump priming its self, if you dont hear that you need to check your fuses, then locate the relay that controls that, ten dont get a new relay, just carfully crack the out side of it off, because its a little magnetic electical switch inside the relay which you can just push on to see if that is the problem, before you buy a new relay, its free.

You have a short in the door switch. Replace the door switch and that should resolve the problem.

To reset the ECU or the car computer, you'll need a diagnosetic and scanner device or the new OBD-I/OBD-II. These devices are use to troubleshoot the automobiles and tells you the problem by codes. If you don't have one of these devices, here is what you do. Remove the neg. or positive battery cable any one of them, then make a spark by touching the cable to the battery pole that you remove until you don't see any spark then put it back. But before you do this make sure the car key is off.

yes an o2 sensor can cause the mixture to go lean or rich. But you have another culprit also a knock sensor can cause this also. for the miss this is more of what the knock sensor would control. Hope this helps you

Remove the transmission & have it rebuilt

No other fix -- it is slipping

I have this information that could be interestng (click over image for zoom)...

Fig. 29: 1994 Explorer 4.0L engine wiring

Fig. 30: 1994 Explorer body wiring


Additionally I have the '95 Ford Edplorer Service Repair Manual that could helpful, if you are interesting give me some email to send it (keep in mind that this PDF format its so long, so, you will need big inbox capacitie).

Hope helps.

had this same problem with my '94. checked all other systems first. not common but possible the fuel cut-off switch may need to be reset. this usually only happens in an accident or sudden VERY hard stop. this reset switch is under dash passenger side, need to pull the kick panel. also check fuse/fuel pump relay in relay box under hood. fuse is under dash (20 amp). if all of these check OK, you are probably looking at replacing the pump itself which means pulling the tank. before you do check to see that you have power to the pump. in winter/snow/salt climates (I'm in WI) may get "lucky" and have a bad ground or shorted wire along the frame rails. these are not well protected for this climate and do corrode with time.

Check the sending unit mounted on the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing.It probably is open internally and not completing the circiut.Touching the wire thats attached to it to ground should make the guage needle move