20 Most Recent 1990 Ford Bronco - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There are mulitiple possibilites here. Assuming there are no other major problems with the engine, and that this happens only from time to time the first thing to check is the thermostat. Ensure it functions correctly and is the correct heat range (ie: 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 and 210 degrees are the normal raanges used) Use the recommended t-stat for your vehicle (including all optional equipment). Also check the water pump for any noise or grinding to ensure it is functioning well. Next thing to check is that your fan is the correct fan and not modified or replaced with a smaller one or electric fan. The air shroud is also very important to direct air flow, and believe it or not it, that plastic shroud everyone hates will help to significantly change the airflow and thus cool much better. These are the most likely caauses. Keep in mind that the overflow only happens when sigificant pressure takes place from the coolant overheating and expanding... it does not always mean you have too much fluid. Also keep in mind that coolant has a higher boiling temperaature and does not expand as quickly as water... that is why you should always be using coolant and not water. Water works in an emergency, but not good for much more than that. The last thing I suggest you check is the size of the radiator... if it was replaced before or if you have modified the vehicle (towing, etc.) the radiator should be resized to accomodate the new load. The normal radiator for this vehicle has hat is called a "2 core" radiator. You may need a "3 core" radiator for the added cooling surface area... most commonly used for work trucks, towing packages or modified vehicles. This small problem can become a very big one if you do not solve it... the overheating can easily cause cracking in the heads or block later if it continues for any period of time.
1- coolant and levels
2- thermostat
3- water pump
4- fan and fan shroud
5- correct radiator for your application

It could be the switch, a fuse, a relay, the motor that engages the transfer case (very common problem) or the transfer case itself. Disconnect the motor arm from the transfer case and see if you can move the shift rod by hand. If you can then you know the transfer case is probably OK and you can test from the motor back to the switch.

Ignition module

you can find out by the bolt pattern on the pan and ther should be a lable on the side of the tranny or it will be stamped in the metal.

The problem could be that the air filter has become wet, or water has entered an electrical control device in the engine compartment, or a wire connector or a bulk-head connector might have become loose or dis-connected, the fuse to the ECM or fuel pump might have blown out, or the fuel shut-off inertia switch has been tripped.

Check the fuse to the fuel pump and the fuel shut-off or "inertia" switch, usually located behind the passenger side kick panel, or it will sometimes be located under the carpet just under the heater assembly, and check the red reset button on the top to see if it has been tripped, and push the red button all the way down to see if it will reset. Here is an image of the inertia switch or fuel cut-off switch, and a diagram that shows the location of the fuel cut-off switch under the passenger side carpet to help assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

I just had that same problem on a silverado. Yes, you have to replace the switch. Autozone has a tool you can use to remove the steering wheel. If you are not mechanically inclinced you can still do this. Removing the steering wheel sounds scary, or at least it did to me, but it wasnt bad at all.

There is a sensor on the manifold called the ACT, air charge temp. if it is malfunctioning it can cause this behavor. Run codes and see what it shows. if you dont want to by a scanner you can find full instructions on how to pull codes manually at fordfuelinjection.com

you have to drop the fuel tank to replace it. best to do when the tank is almost empty. if you still have fuel in it you can buy a device to pump out the fuel from the fill tube then drop the skid plate, metal straps and it will come down. use a large floor jack with some wood to help lower it down and put back up.

sorry to burst your bubble but to get that kind of info you have to belong to a supplier hotline like chilton, anything else you find will be just general information

Hi! Theres a lot of things that may cause this problem. A faulty transmission solenoid, faulty PCM (powertrain control module) or just a simple vacuum leak. If its the solenoid, you will have to replace it. If its the PCM you will need to have it resetted. If its a vacuum leak, its gonna be just some worn vacuum hose problem or there could be a hose detached somewhere so I suggest you have a closer look. Hope this helps and have a good one!

COULD BE LOOSE OR DEFECTIVE ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION MOUNTS.

Moister,or ac voltage from the alternator,or overcharging from the alternator,or a short,in the wiring.

In order to answer your question I will need to know what kind of lift did you use and spec. on the lift kit.

We will need to go back and forth via email.

Body / chassis lift?

Suspension lift?

Spring only?
front and rear

Steering kit?

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Per Chilton book this is the prefer caster and camber
Year Model Ride Height Min-Max Caster Min-Max Camber Min-Max. 1983 - 1991
Ranger 4wd
4 - 4-1/4 2 - 5 1 - 2 4-1/4 - 4-3/4 1 - 4 2 - 3

I would keep the current setting (I hope you made markings on the tower before pull the suspension out) and start monitor for tire wear.

There is an old trick for tracking 4X4 vehicle.

Wet for front tire and drive straight,check the water mark.

Do the same for the rear.


Fill me in on what know of lift you use and I will email you more information.

The accumulator it's self will have the low side fitting on it, on this year truck the accumulator does not come with the hose assembly, just the accumulator, which hose do you need?The discharge hose will have the high side fitting on it, the liquid and suction line don't, I don't know which one you need, but you will also need a retro fit kit if your going to change it to 134a freon, due to R12 is impossible to get, and R12 is the fitting's it will come with.

hi, there is an adjustment, on the top of the steering gear box, you will see a nut tightened against a cover on a stud. this is the sector shaft of the steering gear box. what you can do, is loosen the nut, and turn the shaft(not the nut) clockwise a quarter turn at a time(90 degrees only at one time) then check your steering wheel freeplay, you can go back and tighten a quarter of a turn again if not as tight as you want. do not tighten past one full turn! if you still can't get the steering free play tight as you want, you will have to replace the gearbox. when/if you do get the freeplay where you want, tighten the nut back down to spec. probably around 32 ft lbs. follow the steering shaft from the firewall to where the gearbox is located to find the nut i speak of right on the top or to the inside toward the engine.

I used a vinyl spray for seats and trim on a boat. I was just spraying a different shade of yellow over the original yellow. It stuck well to the surface but it was sticky forever and attracted dirt and the dirt stuck to it.

If you can get hold of the people the Dealers call to repair Cigarette burns on seats and carpets, they could tell you about different products. I would not recommend the stuff I bought through J.C. Whitney.
Going from light to dark is possible, but I do not think you can go from a dark color to a light one.

I do believe you can get some new carpet through J.C. Whitney. If you need a little work on the seats you can have an Upholstery shop put in a different color insert and two-tone the seats to tie the colors together. When they pull the seats it would be simply for them to change out the carpet.

If the two-tone worked for you, then you may not want to fool with the headliner. I used to handle the new boxed Headliners at Ford. Even with the box, they were a pain.

Good Luck to you, I did not like my experience with the spray products.

No it not true, maybe they just don't have it, I know Napa auto parts stock this there part, the number is #409996 and it is a stocking item run's about $30.00, take that part back to autozone and go over to Napa.

the refill bottle shouuld never be attached to the high pressure side (high side) .. the connections are different to prevent that .. if you did manage to hook that up, there would be great danger of the bottle exploding ... so you can only hook the bottle up to the low pressure side (large piple) ... the retrofit kit should have included adapters for both high and low pressure sides ... the correct adaptor should fit the R134a refill bottle hose ... it should also fit the low pressure port (you may have to remove the valve in the old port (read instructions for that) .. if the adapter does not fit then you might check with a dealer or air conditioner supply house for a special adapter ... R134a and R12 are completely incompatable so make sure you have washed out the system and replaced the dryer and sometimes the hoses ... you cant have any of the old lube left in the system .. its generally a good idea to replace all rubber parts for the changeover .. you will need to pull a vacuum for a couple of hours before refilling .. .

if both are MANUAL 5 speed then YES
auto transmissions use different shafts for 88-90

YEP DIRTY CLOGGED STOPPED UP FUEL INJECTORS OR FUEL FILTER WILL CAUSE MISFIRE ROUGH IDLING ENGINE.HESITATION ON ACCELERATION.YOU WILL GET THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH CLOGGED INJECTORS LIKE TIMING PROBLEMS.