1990 Dodge D150 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Replace or clean the idle air control motor. Just a note. It is 32 years old, could be wiring to the IAC motor.

It might be the gear on the other end where goes into transmission. Easy fix if it is there.

Does it happen when you shift just to 1st what is idle in park when you turn on the ac in park does the idle go up a hair??

You could possibly have a bad rear main crank seal.

Hi Trevor, sorry your having such a bad day. I would suspect you may have two different problems, it could be just one but the reason I think two is being a 1990 truck I'd check to see for sure if it did not still have the old mechanical cable from the transmission through the firewall and plugged into the back of the speedometer. If so you can unscrew it from the back of the transmission and use a drill to turn the cable. Be easy with it so you don't bend it up. Go slow at first and have someone watch the speedometer to see what happens. If it acts all crazy or doesn't work, hangs up, something like that you most likely have a bad cable. not too bad to replace you are already half way there. Now if it does work smoothly and speeds up and slows down with the drill the there is a little ( usually plastic ) gear that sits right inside the hole. You'll have to get you a little pick or needle nose to get it out but again be gentle because it meshes with another little gear in there. Go get the right one for your truck , you'll need the transmission type number, the tire size that came on the truck not the monster mudders you put on it to impress the girls because then we'll have to go and get all scientific and calculate what gear to get. LOL Hopefully that may help you there . You could have a loose ground but honestly it sounds like a short to ground. A hot wire may be touching a ground wire somewhere under the dash. You know last week when you were pulling on the wires installing the news radio for some tunes and a new CB you may have gotten something crossed up a little. If you already have the dash off anyway checking on the speed cable just turn the key on and start looking to see if you see any discoloration like where something was getting hot or if your brave or desperate use your hand like I do and feel around to see if any of the wires seem like they are getting hot. You'll be able to tell they'll be a lot warmer than the others. heck I've seen where a mouse had crawled up in a dash board and chewed the insulation off some wires and caused problems so just jump on in that's how ya learn. let me know what you find. You may just have a electrical speedometer on that truck and it all be because of that durn mouse. Good Luck. and keep us posted.

If you get a noise when removing the filler cap then there is a problem in the canister purge valve . Tanks should not pressurise as you suggest but be pressure neutral. Pressure regulators are subject to dirt and other ECM settings so I would run the fault codes first to find out where the fault is likely to be.

Sounds like something is not properly grounded, or an electrical component going bad. This can be difficult to diagnose in modern vehicles (with miles of wires and lots of circuitry). I recommend you let a professional mechanic run an electronic diagnostic on your vehicle. It may be as simple as a short somewhere, or something more serious like an electric motor (wipers, windows, etc.) going bad, or an overload from a stereo system, etc. It can even be caused by a bulb somewhere with a bad element. Do NOT simply put in a higher-rated fuse, as this might mask the true cause of the problem temporarily, but makes your vehicle less safe. Do not ignore this problem.

is the idle speed too high?

I'm assuming you got this fixed already but to prevent it from happening again keep fuel more than half tank and with every fill add a fuel additive that prevents freezing

The coil is not getting constant power to it / through it. It is possible that the ignition module is faulty or the distributor shaft is moving so as to allow the cam in side to contact the side of the module because of bent/ worn bushes

This has distributor cap.

check the fuel pressure and the spark which is going first very important info

refe to chilton

Could be a problem with the idle circuit inside the carb, or a large vac leak.

The input shaft (on the front of the trans) is inserted into the clutch plate, so the trans has to move straight backward (or the engine has to move straight forward) about two or three inches to separate the two, before either one can move up or down.

Make sure that you can get them to rotate slightly with respect to each other, to make sure that there is not one more bolt somewhere that is still holding them together.

If you are pulling the engine, make sure that you have already removed the radiator, otherwise when you pull the engine forward, it could go too far and smash the radiator.

well if they are crossed it is bad. that could cause premature detonation in the intake or after fire in the exhaust. or no spark period. either way it will make a hell of a noise the manual should give you the firing order and on top of the distributor should be the numbers marking which cable goes to which plug on which cylinder. I wouldnt recommend running it till he can fix it cause it will cause more harm and more money in the long run if he does

It's in the engine compartment. On the drivers side firewall below the master cylinder next to the fender

Fuse box should be under the dash near the steering column, and - or in the glove box.

It can be low fuel pressure issue or clogged fuel pump. Or its engine related issues,---------------

Check the help link mentioned below to troubleshoot the problem: ------

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/12/engine-stallscar-stalls-while.html

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These will help.

Thanks.

it could be the linkage is bent or slipped a little on the drivers side under the car find the cable linkage look and see if the screw has slipped if it has move it back and tighten it up