1984 Dodge D150 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check out if you still have spark and fuel. Sounds like it wants to start but wont.

ok ... it could be that the carb is so gummed up with old fuel that none is getting into the engine..... some trouble shooting will be involved if you buy the vehicle

Are the spark plugs gapped properly? Should be set at .035 inch

you can have a bad coil wire
or ecu (engine control unit),,,computer
or a bad hall affects plate in the distributer
RD

Hi
There should be a 3 prong switch on the transmission where the shifter conects if the wiring is syliconed on there thats your missing switch

Head bolt torque: 90-100 ft lbs., to be reached in 3 equal tightening steps, below is the sequence:
9 3 1 6 8
Front of vehicle
7 5 2 4 10

Main bearing cap torque: 75-85 ft lbs.
Rod bearing cap torque: 45-55 ft lbs.
Looks like u've been busy, and will be for a while. Good Luck!

Question edited to add year make model as advised. Question moved to make model category. 26 volts going into a 12 volt battery has probably boiled it dry and melted the plates inside. The maximum is around 14 volts. You need an auto electrician to do old school testing., no OBD and fancy scan tool on that one. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

can you just try this, remove gas tank cap and go for a run with it off, see if its any better. if you can put one of them fake gas tank caps on with the filters, if it runs better then the breather in the cap is blocked. or the breather for the tank is blocked.

check the obvious bad ground wire from the battery, loose battery terminals

the idle mixture screws are only for mixture adjustment at idle at speed the idle circuit acts as a emulsifier tube to help with the fuel in the main jet what you need is adjustable main jets or fixed jets for that altitude talk with an accredited carby overhaul shop that knows about the carby you have fitted and the appropriate jets to use

tail lights check the earths at the back and fuse if you have parkers and headlights no dash lights is wired could be the switch or fuse

2nd question?? answered on your first question

Replace or clean the idle air control motor. Just a note. It is 32 years old, could be wiring to the IAC motor.

It might be the gear on the other end where goes into transmission. Easy fix if it is there.

Does it happen when you shift just to 1st what is idle in park when you turn on the ac in park does the idle go up a hair??

You could possibly have a bad rear main crank seal.

Hi Trevor, sorry your having such a bad day. I would suspect you may have two different problems, it could be just one but the reason I think two is being a 1990 truck I'd check to see for sure if it did not still have the old mechanical cable from the transmission through the firewall and plugged into the back of the speedometer. If so you can unscrew it from the back of the transmission and use a drill to turn the cable. Be easy with it so you don't bend it up. Go slow at first and have someone watch the speedometer to see what happens. If it acts all crazy or doesn't work, hangs up, something like that you most likely have a bad cable. not too bad to replace you are already half way there. Now if it does work smoothly and speeds up and slows down with the drill the there is a little ( usually plastic ) gear that sits right inside the hole. You'll have to get you a little pick or needle nose to get it out but again be gentle because it meshes with another little gear in there. Go get the right one for your truck , you'll need the transmission type number, the tire size that came on the truck not the monster mudders you put on it to impress the girls because then we'll have to go and get all scientific and calculate what gear to get. LOL Hopefully that may help you there . You could have a loose ground but honestly it sounds like a short to ground. A hot wire may be touching a ground wire somewhere under the dash. You know last week when you were pulling on the wires installing the news radio for some tunes and a new CB you may have gotten something crossed up a little. If you already have the dash off anyway checking on the speed cable just turn the key on and start looking to see if you see any discoloration like where something was getting hot or if your brave or desperate use your hand like I do and feel around to see if any of the wires seem like they are getting hot. You'll be able to tell they'll be a lot warmer than the others. heck I've seen where a mouse had crawled up in a dash board and chewed the insulation off some wires and caused problems so just jump on in that's how ya learn. let me know what you find. You may just have a electrical speedometer on that truck and it all be because of that durn mouse. Good Luck. and keep us posted.

If you get a noise when removing the filler cap then there is a problem in the canister purge valve . Tanks should not pressurise as you suggest but be pressure neutral. Pressure regulators are subject to dirt and other ECM settings so I would run the fault codes first to find out where the fault is likely to be.

Sounds like something is not properly grounded, or an electrical component going bad. This can be difficult to diagnose in modern vehicles (with miles of wires and lots of circuitry). I recommend you let a professional mechanic run an electronic diagnostic on your vehicle. It may be as simple as a short somewhere, or something more serious like an electric motor (wipers, windows, etc.) going bad, or an overload from a stereo system, etc. It can even be caused by a bulb somewhere with a bad element. Do NOT simply put in a higher-rated fuse, as this might mask the true cause of the problem temporarily, but makes your vehicle less safe. Do not ignore this problem.

is the idle speed too high?